What year C5 is it?

 

What does it do?

 

1998

 

its cutting the ignition randomly doesn't completely die almost feels like when the car miss fires

 

And three different shops can't figure it out? I suppose it runs fine when they have it. Never fails.

 

Is there a reason why you will not read and post the DTCs so we can help you figure this out??

I wil again list the procedure at the bottom of this reply.

IF,,, you read the DTCs and do not see any, there is a very good possibility that you are suffering from a BAD IGNITION SWITCH. They are a WELL documented C5 weak point. Over time the act of cycling the switch ON AND OFF & START causes the contacts inside the switch to get BURNT/ARC and the increased resistance between the switch contacts causes certain MODULES to turn off (just like you turned off the ignition switch.

YES it can happen momentarily and then some days it will be normal.

Here is a VERY LONG post on Ignition Switch Repairs.

- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

Here is what a burnt contact inside the switch looks like:








All that being said,,,,, DTCs will help us point you in the correct direction.

READING DTCs


READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes


The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here is very good site that explains the DTCs:


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

 

How does the battery box look? I believe some of the early cars had issues where the battery leaked onto some of the wiring. I chewed through a wiring harness in my old bagged truck once with the tire and it didn't run quite right either until everything was spliced back together properly. If the car has never been in water, then start with known C5 issues and work your way out from there.

My advice is to listen to Bill Curlee as he is really trying to help you. Once you pull the codes and share them, people will be able to point you in the right direction.

 

Yall dont understand EVERYTHING I mean EVERYTHING has been checked and tested they are now checking all the wiring that goes to the computer that is the only thing they have yet to check

 

and as I stated time and time before there are NO codes what so ever showing up I have checked many many times on the DTC...so there is no reason to be rude

 

Please update us when they figure it out. Might help someone down the road.

 

I prob wont hear back on it till maybe tomorrow if lucky

 

Good luck.

 

Ashley, I sure hope this can be resolved ??? seems like you have enough on your plate than to deal with a sick car

 

No one is being rude, everyone is just trying to help you out.

I had a no codes issue once where the car would fall on its face at 5500 rpms. Turned out to be a piece of airbox seal against the MAF wires. With the car being old, check everything and check it twice. I know mechanics are telling you they've done everything already, but I guarantee you they haven't and the problem can't be that far away. Good luck

 

Is there a reason why you will not read and post the DTCs so we can help you figure this out?? This comment came off as rude....hell the car didnt even throw any codes when my spark plugs were shot...

 

In his defense, he is not only trying to help, but doing so for no charge. Can't say the same for the dealership or various mechanics the car has visited.

With no codes to go on, it definitely makes the problem harder to figure out. I think the shop is onto the right path to check all wiring. Anything that has ever been removed from the car should be rechecked as well as all of the wiring. Something as simple as a loose or bad ground could cause a ton of problems. Heck, some of my issues went away by simply putting a new battery in the car. Hope you get it figured out soon.

 

who would that be Bill?

 

I know this forum can come off as rude sometimes, but I don't think its intentional, have a little thick skin. Anyway, if you get it back without any help, you might try what i mentioned before, Corvette World in Carrollton, its off of I-35 on the east side., south of 190. I had mine in there and they were great! I remember the mechanic saying he loved working on C5's, so you might try them.
Oh , by the way, there will be no codes for spark plug wires.

 

So,,,, In the EVERYTHING category,, did anyone actually measure the output voltages of the ignition switch?

Like I stated previously, IF,, the ignition switch fails, it will do what you describe and NOT THROW ANY DTCs because the PCM "THINKS" YOU turned the ignition OFF.

Vetteman Jack and Road Runner ask about the DTCs also. Not throwing DTCs is just as important of a clue as throwing DTCs. EVERY Post that you make should include that you checked for DTCs and post what they are or say there are NOT any because SOMEONE is going to ask that question.

I've see probably 50 or more cars with UNFIXABLE electrical issues in the past and they were resolved after simply cleaning or replacing the IGNITION SWITCH.

Hey,, Its a simple thing to test for and it isn't an ARM and LEG to fix.

 

My 2001 shut off once while driving and I was able to restart it by dumping it into neutral. I got it home and after checking the battery and starter I did the "Bill Curlee" ignition switch clean and I was good to go. I have done it again after 2 years of use just as maintenance check.