When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Here is the thing. Monster has a fairly unique setup to match balance flywheels. They do it often and are good at it.
Most balancing machines are setup to zero balance flywheels and as such it is not simple for most shops to match balance. I researched it in the twin cities metro and after speaking with several machine shops I had little confidence anyone locally could do a good job....
The lt1s is only like 200 bucks more than the single disc...
Which is better just for driving? I've never had a twin disc so i have no idea what to expect. Both are probably fine for my power level though. and any intricacies to installing a twin disc?
The lt1s is only like 200 bucks more than the single disc...
Which is better just for driving? I've never had a twin disc so i have no idea what to expect. Both are probably fine for my power level though. and any intricacies to installing a twin disc?
LT1-S uses STOCK LT1 pressure plate and clutch disks. The result is a 100% stock feeling clutch with incredible holding power. I imagine it's easier to drive than the stronger single disk, I LOVE my LT1-S.
It's super easy to install. The second disc is part of the pressure plate assembly, so it's really no harder to install than a single disk.
Oh, the ONLY thing to consider is the LT1-S is a bit noisier than a single disk clutch. It's mostly gear rollover noise from the transmission because the clutch plates aren't sprung on an LT1 because it uses a dual mass flywheel. Can raise the idle RPM to around 850 and the noise is mostly eliminated.
LT1-S uses STOCK LT1 pressure plate and clutch disks. The result is a 100% stock feeling clutch with incredible holding power. I imagine it's easier to drive than the stronger single disk, I LOVE my LT1-S.
It's super easy to install. The second disc is part of the pressure plate assembly, so it's really no harder to install than a single disk.
ok, that makes sense. does engagement feel any different? i've just never run a multi disc clutch before.
ok, that makes sense. does engagement feel any different? i've just never run a multi disc clutch before.
I love the engagement, actually...very progressive and easy to feel...maybe even a bit easier than the stock C5 clutch.
The only thing I'm not a huge fan of is the lightweight flywheel. I think that makes it harder to drive. It's really easy to stall, and for a street car, I'm not sure I'd go that route again.
I love the engagement, actually...very progressive and easy to feel...maybe even a bit easier than the stock C5 clutch.
The only thing I'm not a huge fan of is the lightweight flywheel. I think that makes it harder to drive. It's really easy to stall, and for a street car, I'm not sure I'd go that route again.
i put light flywheels in every car i do a clutch in lol. so i'm used to that.
Id just do the LS7 clutch like you initially said. Itll hold the power you are going to be at and more. Id say you will be 360-370s to the tire, maybe the 380s with the UD and lightweight flywheel (will make the engine want to rev quickly). That is a dang good price on the rear end build, who is doing that!?
Id just do the LS7 clutch like you initially said. Itll hold the power you are going to be at and more. Id say you will be 360-370s to the tire, maybe the 380s with the UD and lightweight flywheel (will make the engine want to rev quickly). That is a dang good price on the rear end build, who is doing that!?
Even a lightweight flywheel for an LS7 clutch is still somewhat heavy compared to aftermarket...and they're surprisingly pricey if I remember correctly. Would have no problem holding the power though, you're right there.
You can get the Tick Performance package for $1,000 that has everything including their adjustable master cylinder and there are others. I went with the LUK LS7 clutch for my build.
Id just do the LS7 clutch like you initially said. Itll hold the power you are going to be at and more. Id say you will be 360-370s to the tire, maybe the 380s with the UD and lightweight flywheel (will make the engine want to rev quickly). That is a dang good price on the rear end build, who is doing that!?
You can get the Tick Performance package for $1,000 that has everything including their adjustable master cylinder and there are others. I went with the LUK LS7 clutch for my build.
hmmmmmm but for 200 bucks more i get twin disc with lightened flywheel...
Id just do the LS7 clutch like you initially said. Itll hold the power you are going to be at and more. Id say you will be 360-370s to the tire, maybe the 380s with the UD and lightweight flywheel (will make the engine want to rev quickly). That is a dang good price on the rear end build, who is doing that!?
*A high % of ls1 stock clutches "stick to the floor" when you are shifting 1 thru 4 at over 6000 RPM's. After my experiences and researching for HOURS on all Vet and LS1 forums, IMO the LS1 pressure plate cannot handle the high RPM's.
*Aftermarket cams and or superchargers want to rev past 6200 rpms or even more.
*MANY C5 LS6 Z06 stock clutch owners reported the same problem and that clutch should have been rated for the higher RPM of the LS6.
*I had the LS7 kit before and it worked perfect but I never shifted past 6000 as it was stock.
*In the research I have done, some C6 owners with the LS7 have had that clutch stick to the floor. Not sure how widespread this is though.
*If I hear one more time that "the fluid is dirty" I am going to puke. That having been said though, definitely put in a remote bleeder when you do your clutch (:-).
For that reason, I went with an aftermarket clutch since I rev to 6500. I would suggest you do the same (it does not have to be Monster) but I suggest you do as well if you are going to rev past 5900 RPMs.
I bought LUK and though Im not doing a gear change I am doing heads/cam/intake/UDP/TB/larger maf..so Ill report how it holds up. Course I dont drag race etc and only w few HPDEs. Mostly curvy back roads and spirited driving. With the known weak points of rod bolts and pistons REVs will be limited to 6,800 for me with most shifts at 6-6300 if I am wanting to wind it out which isnt all the time. Just when I wanna play.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.