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They are essentially $200 door hinges machined from Al and cover three different places in the oil pan to keep oil at the sump. I put some in my a couple of days ago.
I agree with kevbot. The splitter looks good. I did not have any cooling issues with the center air dam installed. However it's not very durable. I bought mine to test ground clearance an chiped the lip in my driveway. I knocked a big chunk out on a cone at an autox...... Just don't smoke any cones or curb it and it should hold up for a while.
I've been wanting to add additional driving lights in my front license plate spot like you have done. Do you have a thread showing what lights you used and how they are mounted? They look great!
OK, Monster LTS1 twin disc ordered, with standard weight flywheel, Tick master cylinder, 36" bleeder... That's all on the way.
picking up my 4.10 rear end in a week or two.
and then... things get serious lol
Man you don't mess around! Monster LT1 S and stock GM hydralics work wonderfully together. Have not been convinced the Tick MC is better that stock with this setup.
If you have not fully researched this, read up some more and see what you think.
Last edited by Toys4Life C5; Aug 1, 2019 at 01:33 PM.
I went with all LUK brand clutch items all the way down to the slave. I have the LUK LS7 kit installed.
also go ahead and get your steering rack redone if it is leaking. Gotta take it out anyways.
I also suggest going ahead and getting new belts and tensioner pulleys etc.
run a couple bottles of radiator flush through it before actually tearing it down for the new parts and check radiator hoses to see if they or any clamps need replacing.
Just a few things to add there.
Oh yeah and get your new lifters soaking for a couple of days before you start.
I've been wanting to add additional driving lights in my front license plate spot like you have done. Do you have a thread showing what lights you used and how they are mounted? They look great!
Monster LT1 S and stock GM hydralics work wonderfully together. Have not been convinced the Tick MC is better that stock with this setup. If you have not fully researched this, read up some more and see what you think.
I went with all LUK brand clutch items all the way down to the slave. I have the LUK LS7 kit installed.
also go ahead and get your steering rack redone if it is leaking. Gotta take it out anyways.
I also suggest going ahead and getting new belts and tensioner pulleys etc.
run a couple bottles of radiator flush through it before actually tearing it down for the new parts and check radiator hoses to see if they or any clamps need replacing.
Just a few things to add there.
Oh yeah and get your new lifters soaking for a couple of days before you start.
It's not leaking but its throwing the code for the assist system. Whatever it's called. Not working correctly. I wasnt sure if anyone rebuilds that part of the rack.
I have new belts and tensioners since I did the under drive pulley for the cam.
I would look into the steering thing. A couple of places will allow you to send in your old one before shipping and paying for the reman and not charge the stupid $400 core charge. I sent mine to Turn One but wasnt overly impressed with the work vs cost.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
