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Which is exciting. But I have something going on around the bellhousing. Im scratching my head. I do have an exhaust leak where the headers go to the mid pipe. Im not sure thats what im hearing though. It seems mechanical.
so it makes this noise which is rpm dependent no matter what I do.
Sitting in the driveway with the trans in gear and clutch in it makes it (so its not the torque tube or trans)
Which means its from the slave forward. No change clutch in or out. So I don't think the slave is shimmed too loose. Makes me wonder if it's shimmed too tight. But this is an uneven sound that changes on/off the throttle.
Keep in mind it seems very loud in the video. No rubber isolator was in and I had the mic pretty much in the shifters hole. Its not quiet but I wouldn't call it loud.
Get ya one of those stethoscopes from HF and run it around the heads and exhaust manifold flanges.
Agreed -And stick it on various parts of the drivetrain as well. I was scratching my head on a wheel bearing 2 years ago, stethoscope made it obvious. Hopefully it will help you pin the noise down as well.
thanks guys. I took an hour and pulled the headers down to pull the inspection plate. Everything looks fine. Only thing I noticed was this gap.
When I measured for the slave I took this spring off and put the bearing back on. When I measured this gap wasnt here. I dont know if that affected the measurements or if that just means I'm good and haven't bottomed the slave out.
yeah i'm scratching my head on this one. it sure sounds like it's coming from right around the bellhousing... and it's pretty quiet at idle. i crawled under the car with it idling and couldn't really tell if/where it was doing it. It's louder the higher you go in the revs.
This sucks not being able to have a buddy come help lol.
So I drove it to work the other day and while I'm really happy with how its coming along. It needs a few touches to the outside
So the back is kinda naked so I ordered a painted zr1 spoiler
and now I'm thinking front splitter I'm lowered and some guys with the zr1 front lip say they have cooling issues so I'm torn between the painted zr1 and this one
Which is very inexpensive but more importantly. Pretty low profile and doesnt look like it will interfere with cooling.
DONT DO IT!
It looks good but I installed one and essentially it was the reason for my overheating, since the bottom breath section of the c5 is blocked with that spoiler.
I was chasing the overheating with. Thermostat. Cool and flush2x etc until I noticed the physics of the spoiler and TaTa IT WAS THAT DAMN spoiler that prevented the air to get directed to the Rad.
DONT DO IT!
It looks good but I installed one and essentially it was the reason for my overheating, since the bottom breath section of the c5 is blocked with that spoiler.
I was chasing the overheating with. Thermostat. Cool and flush2x etc until I noticed the physics of the spoiler and TaTa IT WAS THAT DAMN spoiler that prevented the air to get directed to the Rad.
um he already has all that lol. I have a Vortex front lip too and no over heating for me. I put the center air dam piece in and it covers the back of the vortex lip and basically made an air scoop out of it and all the air goes up toward the radiator now. As far as my PWS cooler, well that may be a different story.
um he already has all that lol. I have a Vortex front lip too and no over heating for me. I put the center air dam piece in and it covers the back of the vortex lip and basically made an air scoop out of it and all the air goes up toward the radiator now. As far as my PWS cooler, well that may be a different story.
airdam is essential . Mine was gone from previous owner . So I had to get one. Your vortex lip has a better design with a opening in the middle.
The zr1 style doesnt have a middle opening= overheating especially when there is no airdam.
guess how I know! Lol
This build is so much fun to watch. I wish you were my neighbor. I feel like I could learn a lot from you. You sure are staying busy with this thing! Keep it up!
so I talked to monster and they don't think it's clutch. I still suspect it is but I can't say for sure. They were like "ya just pull it all apart and remeasure" ya OK lol.
The top pic is installed and the bottom is how I measured. This is the only thing i was worried about with the clutch. You can see the gap when installed vs no gap when i measured.
I haven't had a straight answer from them yet about if this looks OK. I just sent them the comparison pic.
thanks guys. I took an hour and pulled the headers down to pull the inspection plate. Everything looks fine. Only thing I noticed was this gap.
When I measured for the slave I took this spring off and put the bearing back on. When I measured this gap wasnt here. I dont know if that affected the measurements or if that just means I'm good and haven't bottomed the slave out.
I've been doing a lot of research on slave shimming and all that since I have an upcoming clutch replacement (just Luk LS7 + Dorman slave, shouldn't need shimming).
Don't you want a gap once everything is installed? As the clutch disk wears the PP fingers will stick out more (toward rear of car) and this will be accommodated by the slave gap you show. If you had no gap, that means the slave is bottomed out. Can you measure how big the gap is? Depending on clutch I think it's supposed to be 1/8"-1/4".
I've been doing a lot of research on slave shimming and all that since I have an upcoming clutch replacement (just Luk LS7 + Dorman slave, shouldn't need shimming).
Don't you want a gap once everything is installed? As the clutch disk wears the PP fingers will stick out more (toward rear of car) and this will be accommodated by the slave gap you show. If you had no gap, that means the slave is bottomed out. Can you measure how big the gap is? Depending on clutch I think it's supposed to be 1/8"-1/4".
From monsters directions
We like to see no less than a .0625" gap and no more than a .200" gap on our units, ours differ from what most say because our lift/release is different than others. DO NOT TAKE OTHER PEOPLES INFORMATION AS WHAT'S CORRECT FOR US, USE THESE TOLERANCES OR CONTACT US FOR FURTHER EXPLANATIONS.
Alright. So I pulled the inspection plate and had a neighbor rev the car with me under it. And it still sounds like its coming from the collectors.
So then I started rechecking pushrod length. And wtf. On the comp cam tool I'm getting 8.5 turns to zero lash rather than 10.5 I initially got.
I'm going to remeasure tomorrow like. 10 times. But I suspect my pushrods are too long. I have 7.4s and if 8.5 turns is right and if btr recommends .100 preload then I should be running 7.325 pushrods. Not 7.4s.
Also. My buddy sent me linked lifterd that I used. But he didn't tell me the brand. Just that they are good ones. With all the issues I started bugging him. And holy crap. This is what he sent me! I need to send him a good bottle of scotch
Had a bonus score with the heads. My buddy that picked them up originally told me they were off a cadillac. I just assumed they were off a 6.0 or something.
Turns out of they're off an LS6 CTSV... so they have the sodium filled valves as well.
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