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I meant loose as in no tension on the push rod. Floppy with your finger. If you are changing lifters I dont think LS7 is best but they will work if set up right.
Originally Posted by dskinsler83
The youtube video feom Scruff’s Garage shows how to make a solid lifter and how to measure for zero lash woth your tool on base circle. Then based on what the lifter manufactures recommendations for preload you add that length to the checker length and get your pushrod length if I remember correctly
If you put the 7.300 in and fire it up and let it warm up. Shut it off and immediately pull a valve cover. The lifters on base lobe have lash. As in you can move those rockers.
If you pull the push rods from those same lifters and toss 7.350 push rods in. You can tighten the rocker arm to zero lash and then place your hand on the valve spring and feel the rocker compress the spring.
The lifters are acting like solid lifters. If you put a push tod in and push down you get zero rebound. Usually you'll feel a bit of "squish" i get none of that. Its almost like the push rods are too big for the lifter (diameter wise)
I am absolutely making sure the pushrod is seated in the lifter during installation too.
at this point pulling a head just makes sense. I dont know if the piston in these lifters is stuck or what. But clearly something isn't right. Cam looks fine and even if I wiped a lobe it still wouldn't explain what's going on. And this is happening on both sides. On all cylinders.
Ya so... i followed scruff garage's instructions for pushrod length not realizing that part 1 he shows how to lock out the lifter haha. That will get corrected here shortly.
Pulled the heads and the lifters. one lifter is pretty messed up. it actually cracked on top by opposite the link bar.. almost all are siezed. it looks like the lifter that's the most messed up locked piston extended. because there's the SLIGHTEST mark on that piston from the exhaust valve. just enough i can catch my fingernail in. Cam looks fine and it made good oil pressure still. so hopefully the lifters took the damage and nothing else did.
so i ordered a new valve just for peace of mind. And my new lifters come in today. I'll start over and measure pushrod length CORRECTLY this time haha. But it was a bummer that i killed a very nice set of lifters...
But this is how we learn sometimes haha. Valve should be here tomorrow. So hopefully i have this up and running by the weekend.
Also, i hate the GM engineer that designed the alternator/power steering bracket lol.
Last edited by 2k2wranglerx; May 19, 2020 at 09:52 AM.
Ok, so the new ls7 lifters have been soaking in oil since yesterday. the new valve will be here today. I'm going to put the new valve in, lock out 2 lifters, and remeasure for the pushrod length.
Also, these morel lifters will clearly never go back into a motor so i started pulling some apart to try and see what is going on. And what i'm finding is almost all are locked OUT. so it's not like the pushrod slammed the piston down and they stuck. More like they're all stuck extended... I'm starting to think they came DOA from sitting. My buddy that ran them kept them in a bag with oil in it (not submerged or anything just with oil in the bag) but i'm starting to suspect that they were locked out when i got them... I can't really come up with any other conclusions. I can't imagine a pushrod being too long would have locked the lifters extended...
Im trying to figure out how you had a valve contact a piston.
and that valve had the broken lifter... I have no idea man. going to check PTV when i do the pushrod length check too. pretty crazy. I double checked that my rockers are stock and they appear to be. hopefully going back to the ls7 lifter solves some problems.
Eh its just crazy. Looking online it is made out to be pretty straight forward for most of this work but even when I did mine it didnt go right thus why I had a shop assembled my engine the second time around.
2k has your block ever been decked and have your heads ever been milled? Most LS builds don't stray too far away from 7.40s with a lot of cam swapped cars sticking to 7.40.
Eh its just crazy. Looking online it is made out to be pretty straight forward for most of this work but even when I did mine it didnt go right thus why I had a shop assembled my engine the second time around.
If the LS1 doesn't work out i'm ordering a 408 assembled from texas speed lol
Originally Posted by Mr. Black
2k has your block ever been decked and have your heads ever been milled? Most LS builds don't stray too far away from 7.40s with a lot of cam swapped cars sticking to 7.40.
the block I don't believe so. I bought the car with 100k on it. But NOTHING i've looked at indicates that it's ever been out lol.
The heads are off a CTSV and the previous owner said they have never been decked. But that's unknown too because he hasn't had that car since new either.
Originally Posted by dskinsler83
Didnt pinch the oil pump o-ring by chance when putting it together?
No i was crazy careful about that. that was my biggest fear. firing it up with a messed up O ring and having no oil pressure haha. It makes like 40 at idle and 60 running at speed.
Last edited by 2k2wranglerx; May 20, 2020 at 10:35 AM.
Yup. and I should clarify I was speaking on behalf of GM based lifters. I have no experience with those fancy boutique lifter brands.
If i was measuring with them fully locked out (as i suspect they were now) the 7.4's would still have been correct... I came up with 10.5 turns out on the checker. so (10.5x.050) = 6.8 gives me 7.325. Add .075 preload and the 7.4's were perfect. When i had the issue and we discovered the push rods were opening the valve I suspected that the pushrods were too long. I did not "lock out" the lifters when i measured (and looking at them now i don't believe you can) so i suspected that i measured the 7.4's with the lifters compressed. When i went to a shorter pushrod (the 7.275's) it ran fine but had a ton of valvetrain noise. and the rockers had lash.
What i'm thinking is going on is the lifters were all locked OUT the entire time. So they were acting like solid lifters. So when i added the lash with the shorter pushrods the valves were no longer hanging open.
Awesome to hear, hoping your first real test drive after the tune goes well! If you would not mind reporting back with an an after action list of things "you wish you had known" prior to the cam swap that would be very valuable to the forum.
Awesome to hear, hoping your first real test drive after the tune goes well! If you would not mind reporting back with an an after action list of things "you wish you had known" prior to the cam swap that would be very valuable to the forum.
Continued good luck!
Toys.
Oh for sure. I'll keep the thread going. I'm sure I have more to do lol.
I went and washed it real quick too because it was filthy.
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