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There are several different flavors of centerbolt valve covers depending on their factory installation. I have a pair in the shop that I took off of my car a while back that have the same baffles as above. I bought them off of ebay or CF classifieds I think off of a truck. My car was originally perimeter bolt heads.
What is interesting though is as far as I know all LSs gen 3 and 4 use the same rockers since 1997. Stock rockers of course and any gen 3-4 valve cover should fit any centerbolt head regardless of the baffle design.
Last edited by Mr. Black; Apr 19, 2020 at 07:19 PM.
Thought the LT-1S was just a bolt in no measuring?
In the Installation tips on their site for this specific clutch it refers you to whether or not you'll need to shim and they require the measuement.
Originally Posted by dskinsler83
And what baffles are those from? Center bolt valve covers dont have em
Pretty sure they're stock off my 01. Others have said they have them too.
Originally Posted by Mr. Black
There are several different flavors of centerbolt valve covers depending on their factory installation. I have a pair in the shop that I took off of my car a while back that have the same baffles as above. I bought them off of ebay or CF classifieds I think off of a truck. My car was originally perimeter bolt heads.
What is interesting though is as far as I know all LSs gen 3 and 4 use the same rockers since 1997. Stock rockers of course and any gen 3-4 valve cover should fit any centerbolt head regardless of the baffle design.
They fit fine with the stock setup but they hit the new trunions since I did the btr upgrade. The trunions stick out past the outside of the rockers for the washer and snap ring
That is interesting. I've not ever monkeyed around with my trunnions before. seems strange they would make them so they wouldn't fit with certain covers.
I'm no PCV engineer but I would caution that with those baffles removed you could potentially overwhelm your catch can.
One option would be to go ahead and do the valley cover mod so that you PCV is being pulled from the valley and fresh air is now only introduced at the valve cover.
Just a thought. I could be overthinking this.
Looking forward to the rest of your progress. Also that is the clutch I want to try in my car sooner than later.
That is interesting. I've not ever monkeyed around with my trunnions before. seems strange they would make them so they wouldn't fit with certain covers.
I'm no PCV engineer but I would caution that with those baffles removed you could potentially overwhelm your catch can.
One option would be to go ahead and do the valley cover mod so that you PCV is being pulled from the valley and fresh air is now only introduced at the valve cover.
Just a thought. I could be overthinking this.
Looking forward to the rest of your progress. Also that is the clutch I want to try in my car sooner than later.
i can always put them back in and try and trim them... i'm going to see how this is first. I figured the top end work is easy with the motor in the car. if i need to do the ls6 valley cover i'll do that later on. i need to do more research than i'm ready to do now. somewhere i read you have to grind the block to make that valley cover fit?
it's weird that some ls1's have these and some don't.
Last edited by 2k2wranglerx; Apr 20, 2020 at 10:49 AM.
To change to the newer style valley cover you would have to notch a casting (that no one knows what it's for) in the valley for the new cover. It takes like 5 minutes with a cutoff wheel if you do ever decide to do it.
To change to the newer style valley cover you would have to notch a casting (that no one knows what it's for) in the valley for the new cover. It takes like 5 minutes with a cutoff wheel if you do ever decide to do it.
A quick search of the google fu did show there are a handful of others out there that have experienced what you did with your trunnion upgrade and the baffle. No one really had a reason why though. Of course others said it was impossible lol. This was on all LS1 Tech.
Last edited by Mr. Black; Apr 20, 2020 at 11:01 AM.
A quick search of the google fu did show there are a handful of others out there that have experienced what you did with your trunnion upgrade and the baffle. No one really had a reason why though. Of course others said it was impossible lol. This was on all LS1 Tech.
i posted on the c5 facebook pages and a couple guys had this too. I'd like to see what the underside of a valve cover without these looks like lol.
Everyone that had the issue said they just removed them. but i haven't found any results from that yet.
Ok, that changes things a little bit for the better. The Red covers even with the baffles removed on the passenger cover should work fine. Did you have to monkey with baffle at the PCV valve port on the drivers side cover? I would think no. No would be ideal
You are going to want to run an old school push in PCV valve with a 90 degree nipple on it installed in the driver rear port (will need the grommet of course) with that hose running all the way around to your catch can inlet. Catch can outlet will go to the intake manifold port. Fresh air supply will be from the throttle body port to the passenger valve cover. Rear passenger port can be capped.
You may know all this already but just putting it out there as it's the exact routing I used until I made the switch to aftermarket valve covers which BTW was more trouble than it was worth.
Ok, that changes things a little bit for the better. The Red covers even with the baffles removed on the passenger cover should work fine. Did you have to monkey with baffle at the PCV valve port on the drivers side cover? I would think no. No would be ideal
You are going to want to run an old school push in PCV valve with a 90 degree nipple on it installed in the driver rear port (will need the grommet of course) with that hose running all the way around to your catch can inlet. Catch can outlet will go to the intake manifold port. Fresh air supply will be from the throttle body port to the passenger valve cover. Rear passenger port can be capped.
You may know all this already but just putting it out there as it's the exact routing I used until I made the switch to aftermarket valve covers which BTW was more trouble than it was worth.
Dude, i really appreciate that. I hadn't figured out how i was changing this yet since i just ran into this yesterday.
So the elbow that comes out of the driver side needs to be swapped out for the pcv. that's a big help man. I'll have to figure out a PN for the size that matches the grommet that's in there.
Thanks a ton for all the help!!! that saved me a ton of searching!
you're making it too easy on me man haha. ordered and on the way. I really appreciate it! If you weren't at the other end of the country i'd definitely owe you a beer haha.
This build thread has made me feel more at home with the c5. It’s the first thread I have seen where the engine is pulled through the top (like it should be done) and not dropped from the bottom like a vw bug.
This build thread has made me feel more at home with the c5. It’s the first thread I have seen where the engine is pulled through the top (like it should be done) and not dropped from the bottom like a vw bug.
Um actually...It is supposed to be pulled from the bottom lol. And must not have searched hard cause its been done on here more than once. I removed and then reinstalled (a fully assembled and oil primed long block) from the drivers side with the hood still on last month.
Lol thanks man. It took 15 min or so. I didnt have to drop the cradle or the rack. I had a jack under the oil pan once it got close and used that to level and drop it in slowly. It took about 15 mins on total even with taking pics haha. Some guys said they had to move the cradle and the rack but I didn't.
Also got an answer from monster (super fast) about which shim to use.
Also. Looks like I'll have a new uninstalled tick master cylinder for sale lol.
Um actually...It is supposed to be pulled from the bottom lol. And must not have searched hard cause its been done on here more than once. I removed and then reinstalled (a fully assembled and oil primed long block) from the drivers side with the hood still on last month.
Im just adding to the it CAN be pulled from the top and with the hood still on.
But technically the engine is supposed to come out of the bottom of the C5. The cradle is 4 bolts, the upper shock mount, and the upper a-arms and it comes right down, or as it supposed to go the body goes up.
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