You read my mind Bill. I was just thinking the same thing!!!!

 

RTV does seem to be the way to go. It's cheap and easily obtainable. I was concerned there is a conductivity issue with it uncured.

 

Just Finished all 4 sensors in my 1998 C5. 07/19/13

Yes Use a Dremel to remove potting material. Absolutely where a dust mask and eye protection and go Slow...

I used a few (4) clip on heat sinks on the batteries and Quick spoted the batteries with a dot of flux and low heat silver solder from radio shack, this worked well and batteries took on very little heat.

I used RTV Black silicon to re-pot, I placed a small piece of Black Tape over the battery and pc board connections (Cut to fit) This insulated the battery from the wet RTV sealant Waited till today for sealant to harden sufficiently.

I used an old electromagnet (Was for bulk erasing cassettes) I had lying around to activate the sensors and then program (Learn) them into system.
All 4 worked great and I think RTV over the black tape is thick enough to hold -

also the batteries I used exact replacement 5pc for $18.94 @ eBay
That said I went and had a Beer -

 

There is a good youtube video on how to replace the battery, It is here-

 

Well I have had my first warning about the Tire Pressure Sensors on my car. The right front gave a non-communicative fault on the DIC. So I checked the pressures in the DIC and the right front had XXX instead of a pressure reading. So now I am getting interested in replacing all the batteries. And in checking out this thread it appears that I need a CR2477 battery. But maybe a CR2477HFN or a BR2477A as described in the latest post with the YouTube video. What I would like to see is an original battery and what number it has! With the research that I have done I think the BR2477A is the one to get since it has the PC tabs on it to solder to. I don't really want to solder to the case of a Lithium battery. I figure I can wait till the winter time to get this done since when I push the reset button the message goes away and doesn't return for up to a week or so. In the time between messages it does give a reading of the pressure. So I figure the battery in that one is border line and hopefully it will last until the car goes away for the winter and I will deal with it then.

Next is how does everyone get them out? Do you all go to a tire store and have them remove the sensors then go home with the sensors and return days later and have them re-installed? Just wondering how everyone approaches that part of the project. Any answers would be greatly appreciated.

 

I removed my wheels and Discount Tire removed the TPMS's for Free,
of course I deal with them before and they were going to get the reinstall
and balancing business from me.

I reactivated the TPMS's with a magnet through the DIC and marked each one LF, RF Etc.. for the re install

 

I have a 99 with sensor problems, trouble is finding someone willing to take them out of your wheels for you to play with.Definitely worth giving it a shot considering the exorbitant cost of the new ones for these early year models.Thanks for all the great info!

 

Put the car on jack stands, take the tires to a tire store and have them break the bead where the sensor is .

When the bead is broken down, take the Ferrel nut off the stem and the sensor will come out. You don't need to remove the tire from the rim.

When you repair the sensor, install a new O ring and reinstall the sensor and retrain them.

BC

 

Thanks Bill, good to know tires don't have to be completely removed to get at sensors,getting cold out now ,good winter project. o.k to leave on stands for the whole winter? Usually I leave a battery tender on all winter with battery hooked up. Should i unhook battery before placing on stands?

 

Just place the jack stands where the jacking points are and remove the battery from the car. Charge the battery and it should be hood for the winter. Check the charge once a month and store the battery in a place inside out of the freezing weather.

I had my car on stands for two years.

Bill

 

Thanks again Bill C for your valuable input,good to know there are people in this forum that take the time to help out those less knowledgable.

 

Good Stuff,

Can the sensors with the new batteries installed be tested somehow with the receiver in the car to make sure a signal is being transmitted .This would be without putting them back on the wheels .

 

rich s,i think bill cur lee can answer that question more accurately than i can. I'm sure he is considering the answer right now.

 

YES! Set the uninstalled sensors near the four corners of the car. Enter the TPS Training routine.

With a magnet,, put it above each sensor starting with the left front and proceed to the RF, RR, LR. They should program and read O PSI If you mark the position that you programmed them in, you can install them in those locations and be done with them.

Bill

 

thanks billcurlee,knew you would know the answer to that!

 

Thanks wlean99 for comment and bill curlee for the information on how to test them before actually installing them. I am replacing the batteries on my TPMS after about 15 years . I have 40m miles and only 1 battery has died out of the 4 which for me is surprising. Just wanted to check my work before putting the tires and wheels back on .

 

Richard s,your welcome,Mr Bill C is a wealth of info,let me know how they turn out.

 

I have a 98 and never replaced the batteries and they all work. It's good to know how to fix them Thank you.

 

I bought a cool heat soldering iron from radio shack to fix the climate control on my C5 because off the sensitivity of the resistors that need to be soldered. It doesn't heat up until you touch the solder. It might work in this situation.

 

Any one still doing this?