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Old May 21, 2005 | 07:35 PM
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Default code 1416

getting intermittant code 1416 on the PCM.. I can go several days without one and then out of nowhere I get one. I clear the code. I notice no engine problems nor drivability problems.. Started happening after I had the rear end plastic pieces replaced following an accident. Nothing has been done to the engine.
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Old May 21, 2005 | 07:47 PM
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Air system bank 2..I can pull the service manual and see what else it says
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Old May 21, 2005 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by pewter99
Air system bank 2..I can pull the service manual and see what else it says

basically just says that the sensor is not getting the correct info...sounds like you just have a screwy sensor for your AIR system...you air polluter you
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Old May 21, 2005 | 09:29 PM
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Most likely a stickey AIR check valve. There are two AIR Check Valves. One on each manifold. The one on the drivers side is eeasy to get to. Here is a picture of it:



The other one is behind the intake manifold. It is a BITCH to get to!

I had issues with mine and the dealer changed it out under warranty. He didnt rermove the manifold. If you try very hard, you can remove the fastener.

Here is a picture of it:



Look closely and you can see the valve and bracket with the fastener.

Something to try; remove the connector between the hoses on the drivers fender well. Spray some brake parts cleaner inro the hose going to both check valves, insert an air compressor air hose (spray nozzle) into the hose (sealed up around the nozzle with a rag) and force some cleaner into the the check valve.

I will try this next tone they get stickey.

Bill

Last edited by Bill Curlee; May 23, 2005 at 08:33 PM.
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Old May 21, 2005 | 10:44 PM
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I had the exact same code coming up about once a week all winter. After quite a few searches on many different forums I came to the same conclusion that BC detailed above. I shopped around and ended up getting the gasket kit at RockAuto.com for $18 + S/H, and two new AIR check valves at my local Advance for $10 each. Of course, as soon as I had all of the parts in my garage the code NEVER CAME BACK AGAIN I still have the parts, and one day I'll install them. My guess is that the cold made the car a little more sensitive to that alarm, so I'll be sure to change out the valves before next winter.

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Old May 22, 2005 | 12:42 PM
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part #'s for the check valves??
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Old May 22, 2005 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Grumpy
part #'s for the check valves??
common fail.. most any autoparts store sells them. prices usually range from $10-$15 per.

P1415 = drivers side check valve
P1416 = passenger side check valve (located behind intake and a PITA to get to)
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Old May 23, 2005 | 06:42 PM
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none of the parts stores here carry the AC Delco ones...really don't want to pay the dealer $26.00 a piece!!!
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Old May 23, 2005 | 06:48 PM
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Bill Curlee must have posted some really big pictures because all I got from them was BANDWITH EXCEEDED from PHOTOBUCKET.COM
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Old May 23, 2005 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ghost.rider
Bill Curlee must have posted some really big pictures because all I got from them was BANDWITH EXCEEDED from PHOTOBUCKET.COM
they are rightgeous big.
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Old May 24, 2005 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by markcz
My guess is that the cold made the car a little more sensitive to that alarm, so I'll be sure to change out the valves before next winter.

You may be right about that. I had the code a few months ago and haven't seen it since. This appears to be a common problem for C5s. Since my extended warranty is good until June of 06, I'll see if I can kill two birds with one stone - this thing and my non-working horn.
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Old May 25, 2005 | 06:50 AM
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took her to the beauty shop yesterday...replaced the passenger side(PITA) air check valve & the intake gasket..took 2 hours to do the work..an hour wait prior to starting, mostly used to run a code check..they didn't mess up my painted FRC's...thanks for the help.
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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Something to try; remove the connector between the hoses on the drivers fender well. Spray some brake parts cleaner inro the hose going to both check valves, insert an air compressor air hose (spray nozzle) into the hose (sealed up around the nozzle with a rag) and force some cleaner into the the check valve.

I will try this next tone they get stickey.

Bill

I tried this, unfortunately for me it didnt work. Guess its move the intake manifold time...
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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 01:53 PM
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Good Morning Grumpy,

As fellow CF member "99blackfrc" stated above, fouled check air injection valves ("Check Air Valves"), are a very common problem with the C5. Specifically, the BC Code 1415 is the trouble code for the Drivers Side Check Air Valve. This valve is readily visible and in plain view alongside the drivers side fuel rail cover. On the other hand, the BC Code 1416 is the trouble code for the Check Air Valve located behind the manifold and closer to the firewall. Basically, these two valves are a part of the Secondary Air System (AKA: A.I.R. System) which actually introduce air into the exhaust during and shortly after a cold start up. Their main purpose is to lower emissions during this period, and, function as a test valve during every three ignition cycles while driving. Commonly, there are several reasons why these check air valves eventually fail: 1). Actual condesation and rust accumulated in the valves over time: Since this valve is an "air inlet valve", condensation due to excess moisture and other ambient impurities, will collect upon the shutter inside the valve. This moisture is conducive to rust build up which will eventually cause the valve shutter to shut down and stop working properly. The amount of rust build will be very visible on the shutter. The faulty 1416 check air valve on my C5 had obvious moisture and loose rust inside. In fact, Grumpy, a good indication of this condition (rust inside the valve ) are the signs of light dusty oxidation even on the outside surface of the black inlet tubes of the check air valves. Once this occurs, the valve then fails to let in fresh air from the air pumps, which will then set off the respective trouble code for the afflicted check air valve during the next drive cycle diagnostics, until replaced. Another culprit and cause of faulty check air valves is: 2). Installation of aftermarket headers: With such an upgrade to the exhaust system, it is not uncommon for one or both check air valves to become damaged because of the higher heat and temperatures experienced with this new upgrade. As mentioned above, the drivers side check air valve is readily accessible and therefore, easily replaced. By comparison, the (PITA) 1416 valve is more difficult to reach. It is true that the 1416 check air valve is more accessible if you remove the entire air intake manifold. However, with a little patience, you can remove and replace this troublesome "behind the air intake manifold" check air valve without having to do so. As you will see, the tubing that connects the 1416 air valve is buried in a tight fitting serpentine pit of other wires and tubing. It is best to unbolt the actual air pipe from the passenger side exhaust manifold, as well as, unbolt the bracket supporting the pipe to the drivers side cylinder head. This would then allow you to remove the entire air pipe and tube assembly from the passenger side of the vehicle. Admitedly, this did take a little wrangling and gentle pulling (along with a healthy helping of choice expletives in every language, and, several hearty WTF's), BUT, it can be done! Do not be intimidated because basically, the check air valves are an easily serviceable and replaceable part for any C5 owner. The part number for the Drivers Side and Passenger Side Check Air Valve is the same (GM part # 22048212) and costs approx. $27 at a local Chevy Dealership. Therefore, do a little price comparison shopping. Sorry for the long write up, but, the supporting explanation should be very helpful for many of our fellow enthusiasts. Let us know how it turns out.

Keep On Waving,
Eden
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 10:29 PM
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eden, well done w/ the right up; bill curlle, nice write up and i spent an entire minute trying to figure out why i'm looking at the back of the engine block and can see the gas pedal at the same time(i realized it's the naked c5 at bowling green)--this forum is the best tool for fixing vettes, i've gotten the 1416 code a few times in the past few weeks and thanks to ericdwong for the link to this thread
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