Intermitting Starting Problem
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 17
From: Near Jacksonville Fl.
Originally Posted by corvettedoug
I have a 2001 Coupe with a 6 speed. I am currently having an issue with it starting.
The car has had trouble starting off and on most of the month. 9 out of 10 times there were no problems. The 1 out of 10 when I had a problem it was easliy solved by removing the key, moving around the shifter and pressing clutch in and out , putting the key back in and then it would start.
This week however it has had this problem 5 times. Only time it does it is after it has been driven. If the car has been sitting for an hour or more no problem. This week 4 out of the 5 times were fixed by jiggling stuff. The 5th time only was fixed by pushing the car in reverse and popping the clutch and it started. I brought the car home and cut it off. Tried starting it 5 times, and all 5 times it cranked right up. What gives?
Thinks I have checked
- No Codes set (Except for traction control/abs)
- No corroision on battery cables, ground below battery looks clean as well.
- Battery voltage is correct
Checked when key is put in that you can hear the click from passenger side that key is read
When the starting problem occurs, I turn the key, I can hear the fuel pump turn on, ,dash lights up, click is heard on passenger side, then turn to start, lights go dim and no sounds, let go of key and lights are bright again.
Any clues what could cause the intermitting problem?
The car has had trouble starting off and on most of the month. 9 out of 10 times there were no problems. The 1 out of 10 when I had a problem it was easliy solved by removing the key, moving around the shifter and pressing clutch in and out , putting the key back in and then it would start.
This week however it has had this problem 5 times. Only time it does it is after it has been driven. If the car has been sitting for an hour or more no problem. This week 4 out of the 5 times were fixed by jiggling stuff. The 5th time only was fixed by pushing the car in reverse and popping the clutch and it started. I brought the car home and cut it off. Tried starting it 5 times, and all 5 times it cranked right up. What gives?
Thinks I have checked
- No Codes set (Except for traction control/abs)
- No corroision on battery cables, ground below battery looks clean as well.
- Battery voltage is correct
Checked when key is put in that you can hear the click from passenger side that key is read
When the starting problem occurs, I turn the key, I can hear the fuel pump turn on, ,dash lights up, click is heard on passenger side, then turn to start, lights go dim and no sounds, let go of key and lights are bright again.
Any clues what could cause the intermitting problem?
It's either a bad ground or cable easy to find with a voltage drop test or it's a bad starter.
The only other thing it could be is did you do a load test on the battery or just read the voltage with a volt meter?
Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 645
Likes: 12
From: Hermosa Beach CA
I know you said your battery tested out ok but have you tried replacing it. I've seen this issue come up pretty often and even experienced it with my last LS1 SS. Everything lights up... volts look to be within range but all you'd hear is a click at crank. Try a different battery. This will remove two possibilities... a failing battery and/or bad connections at the posts. The theft deterrent system in these cars is very particular in the amount of volts at start-up.
Remember, start simple.
Remember, start simple.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Joe
12VDC Power comes from a fuse, goes through the safety switch (MN6) or neutral safety switch (A4) then to the TDR. From the TDR it goes to the starter solenoid. I will send you a schematic when I get home later tonight! I'm at work and don't have my schematics.
Put the car in neutral, chock the wheels, set the E brake and short the red and purple wire together! The engine should turn over. If you turn the key to ON, and do that the engine should turn over and run!!
If your lights dim when you turn the key, you have a bad connection some where!!! Most likely at the battery or you have a BAD battery!
Connect a volt meter to the battery terminals. When you have someone turn the key to start,,,,what does the meter read??
BC
12VDC Power comes from a fuse, goes through the safety switch (MN6) or neutral safety switch (A4) then to the TDR. From the TDR it goes to the starter solenoid. I will send you a schematic when I get home later tonight! I'm at work and don't have my schematics.
Put the car in neutral, chock the wheels, set the E brake and short the red and purple wire together! The engine should turn over. If you turn the key to ON, and do that the engine should turn over and run!!
If your lights dim when you turn the key, you have a bad connection some where!!! Most likely at the battery or you have a BAD battery!
Connect a volt meter to the battery terminals. When you have someone turn the key to start,,,,what does the meter read??
BC
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 26
From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
Originally Posted by 402joe
thanks for the tips will try that when i go home. the problem is i dont have a wire diagram to go by
If you are not getting power to the purple wire at the clutch switch during an attempted start, and the problem is intermittant, it's most lilkely your ignition switch.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 389
Likes: 1
From: Roswell GA
I finally was able to test the TDR, and power is going out of the purple wire.
The next step I am going to do is get under the car and check the connections to the starter and solenoid. If all those look good, I guess I will be replacing a starter.
I am not looking forward to it since I do not have a lift. I have read that it is possible to change without a lift, but it is a pain.
The next step I am going to do is get under the car and check the connections to the starter and solenoid. If all those look good, I guess I will be replacing a starter.
I am not looking forward to it since I do not have a lift. I have read that it is possible to change without a lift, but it is a pain.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 26
From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
Originally Posted by corvettedoug
I finally was able to test the TDR, and power is going out of the purple wire.
The next step I am going to do is get under the car and check the connections to the starter and solenoid. If all those look good, I guess I will be replacing a starter.
I am not looking forward to it since I do not have a lift. I have read that it is possible to change without a lift, but it is a pain.
The next step I am going to do is get under the car and check the connections to the starter and solenoid. If all those look good, I guess I will be replacing a starter.
I am not looking forward to it since I do not have a lift. I have read that it is possible to change without a lift, but it is a pain.
Assuming you have stock exhaust manifolds (not headers), you'll have to unbolt the H-pipe at the manifolds and let it drop down a little to get at the starter connections and bolts.
If you have LT headers, it's a bigger project, as you'll most likely have to remove the pass. side header to get at it.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 389
Likes: 1
From: Roswell GA
Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
You don't need a lift, and it's not too hard. With the car up on 4 jackstands, you'll have plenty of room.
Assuming you have stock exhaust manifolds (not headers), you'll have to unbolt the H-pipe at the manifolds and let it drop down a little to get at the starter connections and bolts.
If you have LT headers, it's a bigger project, as you'll most likely have to remove the pass. side header to get at it.
Assuming you have stock exhaust manifolds (not headers), you'll have to unbolt the H-pipe at the manifolds and let it drop down a little to get at the starter connections and bolts.
If you have LT headers, it's a bigger project, as you'll most likely have to remove the pass. side header to get at it.
The service manual was showing that the H-pipe needs to be disconnected from the front and rear and lowered. Does it need to be completely removed? Any other tips in making this job easier?
Racer
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
From: Downingtown PA
Just to verify the diagnosis of a bad starter, you might want to put a VOM on the solenoid terminal and confirm that there's 12v when you turn the key to the start position. I had similar symptoms - intermittent failures to start. Should be picking up a new starter later today. Good luck with yours.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 389
Likes: 1
From: Roswell GA
My car has been more reliable recently, which makes it more difficult to test. I am still troubleshooting the issue of the no start condition. I looked at the connections to the starter and solenoid and they look clean. This is in addition to checking TDR, Clutch Pedal Relay, battery.
I noticed the ground by the battery, G104. It looks like this ground has several wires running to it. Does anyone know what each run to? Also it looks like there is a small bolt that does not have a nut on it at the ground. It is inside the battery compartment and the bolt is facing upward. I have a picture, but can not figure out how to add the picture to the post without having it on a website.
I noticed the ground by the battery, G104. It looks like this ground has several wires running to it. Does anyone know what each run to? Also it looks like there is a small bolt that does not have a nut on it at the ground. It is inside the battery compartment and the bolt is facing upward. I have a picture, but can not figure out how to add the picture to the post without having it on a website.
