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The car is forced in open loop right now, will EVAP run in open loop?
Apparently a few cars have passed NYS inspection with LT's no cats and in open loop. This is what i'm striving for here...lol
I put the car away with like 1/8 tank and just filled it up the other day when I took it out. I'm told it needs to be between 1/4 and 3/4 so if so maybe I just haven't hit the sweet spot yet?
The car is forced in open loop right now, will EVAP run in open loop?
Apparently a few cars have passed NYS inspection with LT's no cats and in open loop. This is what i'm striving for here...lol
I put the car away with like 1/8 tank and just filled it up the other day when I took it out. I'm told it needs to be between 1/4 and 3/4 so if so maybe I just haven't hit the sweet spot yet?
From my experience with my DD (rollin hooptie) the battery being disconnected screws EVERYTHING and the best solution is 100 miles or so. I got failed for everything showing not ready, drove 125 miles, went back to the same station two days later and everything was ready and good to go. Had the battery disconnected to remove airbag and fix horn switch.
If your battery was d/c in storage, you might just need more driving??
The car is forced in open loop right now, will EVAP run in open loop?
Apparently a few cars have passed NYS inspection with LT's no cats and in open loop. This is what i'm striving for here...lol
I put the car away with like 1/8 tank and just filled it up the other day when I took it out. I'm told it needs to be between 1/4 and 3/4 so if so maybe I just haven't hit the sweet spot yet?
Do you have your own tuning software (HP or EFI) ?
If so, PM me, there is a little known trick that can be done to guarantee you'll pass all monitor tests instantly with zero driving cycles needed.
No matter what's been done to the car or what codes it may be throwing. You can easily pass with it running OL.
Your most likely NOT going to pass in OPEN LOOP. Those type of stories are varied and sometimes came with a pay off of the tech.
If your really getting a State Emissions Inspection, Open Loop mode will fail. If you have some of the offending PIDs tuned out by a tuner and set to not monitor, it will pass then. You cant tune out open loop.
How are you reading the DTC's? Are you using the C5 built in DTC reading routine? If not, try that.
If you have a LOW battery / Bad Battery or disconnect the battery any time, the Emissions Ready Flags in the PCM will set NOT READY and it will take the required drive cycles to set a READY Flag. If your battery is marginal, when the starter is first engaged, it will cause the battery output to dip VERY LOW and sometimes cause modules to shutdown on LOW VOLTAGE for just long enough to play havoc with emissions ready and other DTCs.
I am going to attempt TX state inspection tomorrow, and I have LT's & off road x-pipe. The car has been dyno tuned, etc. It runs perfect.
I have not checked the "codes" since I bought the car by pressing Options & then hitting the Fuel button 4 times. I'm very curious if there are any...or were any in the history.
If I do this, will I need to drive the car through all the cycles before inspection? Or is that only if I CLEAR out any of the possible codes???
The car runs perfect, and I have no lights popping up or anything like that....but I'm just a curious little rhino...
I am going to attempt TX state inspection tomorrow, and I have LT's & off road x-pipe. The car has been dyno tuned, etc. It runs perfect.
I have not checked the "codes" since I bought the car by pressing Options & then hitting the Fuel button 4 times. I'm very curious if there are any...or were any in the history.
If I do this, will I need to drive the car through all the cycles before inspection? Or is that only if I CLEAR out any of the possible codes???
The car runs perfect, and I have no lights popping up or anything like that....but I'm just a curious little rhino...
If you clear it, the IM monitors ALL RESET-YOU WILL NOT PASS TILL THEY RUN. If you have no CURRENT codes and your CEL is off-go for the test.
I no nothing right now. I do know the car was tuned by LG Motorsports about two years ago, but I'm not sure if that helps anything at all.
I am very curious if there are any codes, but I don't want to check or RESET anything 1 day before I'm about to attempt inspection.
One friend of mine suggested I have a full tank of gas during inspection as well...does that help?
I/M monitors and "codes" are different things. You can have a monitor "NOT READY" and throw no codes. These monitors are SELF-TESTS the computer runs on various systems during DRIVE CYCLES to make sure various systems are functioning that don't get cycled or tested at start time. Many states that test emissions will pass you with 1 or 2 monitors NOT READY some will not (see you local DMV for info). You can't see the state of these through the DIC but you can through scanner software or some of those cheapy OBD readers like Actrons.
I/M monitors and "codes" are different things. You can have a monitor "NOT READY" and throw no codes. These monitors are SELF-TESTS the computer runs on various systems during DRIVE CYCLES to make sure various systems are functioning that don't get cycled or tested at start time. Many states that test emissions will pass you with 1 or 2 monitors NOT READY some will not (see you local DMV for info). You can't see the state of these through the DIC but you can through scanner software or some of those cheapy OBD readers like Actrons.
Thanks. I have heard of the NOT READY codes, but didn't realize it was something different. I guess I'll just cross my fingers and take the car there in the morning.
I do want to do the OPTION + FUEL button 4 times today....but only if you guys think it won't screw anything up for my inspection? I wouldn't RESET anything.
DO you have all the O2 sensors installed and functioning (4 total)?
No sir. The car has offroad mids. The rears are installed but I'm not sure if they're doing anything currently. I guess they're installed and plugged in but I think that's about where it ends. Again, the car is currently in open loop.
To top it off this morning my battery was super weak because I left my dome light on last night....because i was reading the codes. So I may have hiccuped the computer again and may be back at square 1. We'll see when I get home. I put the charger on it so hopefully it starts after work. :facepalm:
If you clear it, the IM monitors ALL RESET-YOU WILL NOT PASS TILL THEY RUN. If you have no CURRENT codes and your CEL is off-go for the test.
Thats not true, I got an 0420/0430 on the way to get an inspection. I cleared the code and drove another 2 miles to the inspection station and passed with no issues.
I/M monitors and "codes" are different things. You can have a monitor "NOT READY" and throw no codes. These monitors are SELF-TESTS the computer runs on various systems during DRIVE CYCLES to make sure various systems are functioning that don't get cycled or tested at start time. Many states that test emissions will pass you with 1 or 2 monitors NOT READY some will not (see you local DMV for info). You can't see the state of these through the DIC but you can through scanner software or some of those cheapy OBD readers like Actrons.
Your right; Texas requires that you have no more than 2 not readys, actually Collin Co does as should any IM240 county
Last edited by Millenium Z06; Mar 19, 2010 at 01:48 PM.