H/C garage install progress
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,019
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From: Chico CA
H/C garage install progress
Hi, I am in the middle of installing a set of Patriot heads and a Cheatr cam in my 01 vette (Read this if you want the story so far: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1560755577
So far there haven't been any major gotchas, we still can't find one manfold bolt but I'm sure it will turn up. My friend Bill (he's in the first pic) is taking point as he's done this type of thing before and we are flying through the install using the ls1howto.com guide. At 5 hours of work we've finished off the first two sections of the howto, it's amazing how much stuff we pulled out in one afternoon. Here are some pics of what has been done so far, I've got a few Qs I'll post after.
We are going to pull the heads off tomorrow and clean the engine up, the cam is on back order so there isn't much point in going any further. I also have a set of Z06 sway bars/metal endlinks on the way and I'll be putting new brake pads and rotors on.
So far there haven't been any major gotchas, we still can't find one manfold bolt but I'm sure it will turn up. My friend Bill (he's in the first pic) is taking point as he's done this type of thing before and we are flying through the install using the ls1howto.com guide. At 5 hours of work we've finished off the first two sections of the howto, it's amazing how much stuff we pulled out in one afternoon. Here are some pics of what has been done so far, I've got a few Qs I'll post after.
We are going to pull the heads off tomorrow and clean the engine up, the cam is on back order so there isn't much point in going any further. I also have a set of Z06 sway bars/metal endlinks on the way and I'll be putting new brake pads and rotors on.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,019
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From: Chico CA
Now for the big question... I have a bit of $ left over since I'm doing the intall myself. My thought is that for $300 those ebay shorty headers might be a good idea at this point. The old manifolds are out so it wouldn't take any more effort to put the shorties in. Can someone shed some light on this issue, would it be worth the $300 to put these on? They are MUCH more likely to pass a visual smog inspection (I live in CA) than longtubes and I could add high flow cats later which would help a bit too. Let me know your thoughts on the matter.
I understand I would only get about 10hp from the switch, my hope being maybe 15hp if I also add high flow cats. The other benefit would be the sound which in my opinion might be worth the $300 right there.
I understand I would only get about 10hp from the switch, my hope being maybe 15hp if I also add high flow cats. The other benefit would be the sound which in my opinion might be worth the $300 right there.
Last edited by mdchaser; Jun 23, 2007 at 08:38 PM.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 517
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From: Arlington Texas
I followed the ls1howto.com writeup and, other than dropping a couple of lifters into the crankcase 
, everything went fine. I had a lot of fun and felt really great when the car fired right up. Don't forget to leave the timing cover loose until after you've pressed on the new balancer. Then tighten the bottom two bolts before the ones on the front. I pinned my balancer on the crank, because a wobbly balancer was what started my H/C swap in the first place. I agree with others here to use the homemade tool to pull the balancer on. PM me with your address and I'll mail you one -- I don't plan on doing this again any time soon. It must suck to live in a state where long tubes will violate the smog laws, but Texas will probably be there soon. I think Dallas gets hit with more high ozone days than LA.
, everything went fine. I had a lot of fun and felt really great when the car fired right up. Don't forget to leave the timing cover loose until after you've pressed on the new balancer. Then tighten the bottom two bolts before the ones on the front. I pinned my balancer on the crank, because a wobbly balancer was what started my H/C swap in the first place. I agree with others here to use the homemade tool to pull the balancer on. PM me with your address and I'll mail you one -- I don't plan on doing this again any time soon. It must suck to live in a state where long tubes will violate the smog laws, but Texas will probably be there soon. I think Dallas gets hit with more high ozone days than LA.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 517
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From: Arlington Texas
Oh yeah, my opinion is that headers have an overall negative effect on sound. Sure it's louder out the back, but you also get the famous sewing machine noise up front and in the cabin. If you're not getting a significant HP boost, then you might want to keep the stock manifolds and put a nice aftermarket exhaust on.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,088
Likes: 2
From: tampa florida
I dont think the ebay headers, which is now ssautochrome, are shortys. They are LT.
Try for a set of pace setters, I initally base lined at 298 hp stock, and after the pace setter headers, 322 hp. I have the dyno sheet for the doubters.
The most critical part of your install will be making sure the dots line up. The second most critical part is getting the oil pump sealed correctly.
Also, you can heat the balancer to 350 degrees in the oven and it will go on a little easier. I chose a few dings on the balancer which no one can see anyways as opposed to braking the bolt of in the end of the crank.
Here is my thread on my H/C. ------> http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1655495
You should start saving money for your next upgrade, tranny and TC or clutch.
Don't hesitate to ask any questions.
Good Luck
Brad
Try for a set of pace setters, I initally base lined at 298 hp stock, and after the pace setter headers, 322 hp. I have the dyno sheet for the doubters.
The most critical part of your install will be making sure the dots line up. The second most critical part is getting the oil pump sealed correctly.
Also, you can heat the balancer to 350 degrees in the oven and it will go on a little easier. I chose a few dings on the balancer which no one can see anyways as opposed to braking the bolt of in the end of the crank.
Here is my thread on my H/C. ------> http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1655495
You should start saving money for your next upgrade, tranny and TC or clutch.
Don't hesitate to ask any questions.
Good Luck
Brad
Last edited by Brad@RevXtremeAutoSports; Jun 24, 2007 at 01:54 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,019
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From: Chico CA
More pics
The heads came off today, there are some pics posted below. I have everything sealed up with plastic wrap and towels so I hope it will keep for two weeks until I can get back to it. I used an air compressor to dry out the bolt holes, will that work or should I clean them further? It is a nice feeling to get so far into this project without any major mishaps, kinda neat seeing the cam. There is a bit of carbon buildup on the pistons, is that something I should clean off? It didn't seem particularly bad...
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Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
If you are going to be away from it for a while, oil up the cylinders and turn over the motor a few times to coat the cylinder walls to keep them from rusting, especially since you had so much coolant in them.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Chico CA
Good idea.... How would I do something like that? I've dried up the coolant, no guarantee that some of it didn't make it past the rings though.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 3,452
Likes: 3
From: Spring, TX
I used an air compressor to dry out the bolt holes, will that work or should I clean them further? It is a nice feeling to get so far into this project without any major mishaps, kinda neat seeing the cam. There is a bit of carbon buildup on the pistons, is that something I should clean off? It didn't seem particularly bad...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,019
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From: Chico CA
You need to use an old head bolt and take a dremel and cut two grooves the length of the bolt. Take grease and pack the grooves then use it to chase down all the bolt holes. They need to be completely clean and free of any moisture at all. I would clean the piston tops. Might as well kind of thing.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: East Hampton CT
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
Squirt a little in the cylinders with the pistons down, take a nice clean rag and wipe it around the cylinders, rotate motor and repeat until all the cylinders are nicely coated. Any excess that comes up onto the block wipe before it goes into the cooling system. Won't hurt it but will give some false coolant leak indications later.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,019
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From: Chico CA
Would seafoam work? I've got a can lying around that I could use (the spray stuff).
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,019
Likes: 0
From: Chico CA
Squirt a little in the cylinders with the pistons down, take a nice clean rag and wipe it around the cylinders, rotate motor and repeat until all the cylinders are nicely coated. Any excess that comes up onto the block wipe before it goes into the cooling system. Won't hurt it but will give some false coolant leak indications later.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
If the damper is still on, you can use the bolt on there if you can get at it. You may not be able to if the steering rack is in place. Other option would be a strap wrench since the motor should turn over easy with the heads off.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 623
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From: Ankeny IA
Do I actually screw it back in once it's covered with grease or do I just go until I hit the threads? Once I'm done how do I get the grease out of the bolt holes? I used an air gun to clear out the bolt holes, they seem pretty clean but I don't know if anything has fallen in.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,060
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From: Pasco WA
I can see you didn't use the shop-vac on the water pump ports before you pulled those heads. Would have saved alot of cleanup. Air into the bolt holes is not enough. You need to be **** cleaning out the holes. I used repeated tubes of tightly rolled paper towel, and even on the holes that had NO water, there was moist scum and particles of gunk in there to remove. That stuff doesn't compress when you go to torque the new headbolts, so get it out.