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I can see you didn't use the shop-vac on the water pump ports before you pulled those heads. Would have saved alot of cleanup. Air into the bolt holes is not enough. You need to be **** cleaning out the holes. I used repeated tubes of tightly rolled paper towel, and even on the holes that had NO water, there was moist scum and particles of gunk in there to remove. That stuff doesn't compress when you go to torque the new headbolts, so get it out.
I'll spend an hour tonight running paper towels down the holes, hopefully that will do it. What are the consequences of having a little dirt in the holes?
Anything that is not compressible will throw off the tightening of the head bolts. I used a straw from a drink bottle that just barely fits in the bolt holes on the end of my shop vac to vacuum them out first. Then ran the head cleaning bolt through each hole until it comes out clean. Then a paper towel into each hole. And finally one last pass with the shop vac / straw combination.
I'm concerned about using grease on the cleaning bolt because it wouldn't vacuum up nor would a paper towel soak it up. And the grease would not compress and therefore cause incorrect torqueing/tightening.
Anything that is not compressible will throw off the tightening of the head bolts. I used a straw from a drink bottle that just barely fits in the bolt holes on the end of my shop vac to vacuum them out first. Then ran the head cleaning bolt through each hole until it comes out clean. Then a paper towel into each hole. And finally one last pass with the shop vac / straw combination.
I'm concerned about using grease on the cleaning bolt because it wouldn't vacuum up nor would a paper towel soak it up. And the grease would not compress and therefore cause incorrect torqueing/tightening.
I will avoid the grease and just ram a bunch of paper towels down the holes.
Would seafoam work? I've got a can lying around that I could use (the spray stuff).
I'm sure it will work and won't harm your motor (since people suck entire cans into the top end while its running!) but I don't know if it will work as well as the permatex stuff. The permatex is some sort of caustic acid, almost like paint stripper in a spray can...it bubbles and smells really nasty but you'll be right back down to bare aluminum in no time.
I will avoid the grease and just ram a bunch of paper towels down the holes.
Good plan. Roll up small sections of towel into tight tubes long enough to reach the bottom of the bolt holes. I got a long, very thin screwdriver to help get the towel to the bottom, and also twist them in using the threads. It's not worth the risk to NOT do this step right. I also recommend using copper spray on your new MLS head gaskets. Again, cheap insurance.
Good plan. Roll up small sections of towel into tight tubes long enough to reach the bottom of the bolt holes. I got a long, very thin screwdriver to help get the towel to the bottom, and also twist them in using the threads. It's not worth the risk to NOT do this step right. I also recommend using copper spray on your new MLS head gaskets. Again, cheap insurance.
What is copper spray and why do I need it? Can I pick it up at the local autozone? I ended up buying a felpro gasket set, came with 40 or so gaskets.
Hey, congrats on pulling the trigger. I remember talking to you about cam selection. Good luck, and be sure to post your dyno graph after you get her tuned!!!
What is copper spray and why do I need it? Can I pick it up at the local autozone? I ended up buying a felpro gasket set, came with 40 or so gaskets.
I believe everyone recommends MLS (steel) GM gaskets for head jobs, esp with aftermarket heads (higher compression). I don't know if the fel-pro ones are MLS but if not, you might want to make sure the head gaskets are.
Hey, congrats on pulling the trigger. I remember talking to you about cam selection. Good luck, and be sure to post your dyno graph after you get her tuned!!!
Thanks! As soon as I get a tune I will post graphs.
I believe everyone recommends MLS (steel) GM gaskets for head jobs, esp with aftermarket heads (higher compression). I don't know if the fel-pro ones are MLS but if not, you might want to make sure the head gaskets are.
I verified that the felpro gaskets were the same thickness as the gm gaskets, thats what Gunnar at Patriot said I needed.
The grease may throw off the initial torque reading, are you using stock head bolts?
Also, look into each hole with a flashlight, it is imperative that they be dry so don't just rely on getting a paper towel into the hole.
I'll triple check each hole for moisture. The airgun did a pretty good job of getting the moisture out, I'll use a flashlight/paper towels to verify they are all dry and clean.
Felpros are about the cheapest gaskets you can buy. Not MLS. GM redesigned theirs a couple of years ago, and though they're fairly thick@ .060 compressed, they're very durable, and almost no cleanup if you pull your heads again.m They don't disintegrate like the cardboard/whatever ones do. Copper gasket spray is cheap and easy to apply, but don't bother if you're using the felpros.
Felpros are about the cheapest gaskets you can buy. Not MLS. GM redesigned theirs a couple of years ago, and though they're fairly thick@ .060 compressed, they're very durable, and almost no cleanup if you pull your heads again.m They don't disintegrate like the cardboard/whatever ones do. Copper gasket spray is cheap and easy to apply, but don't bother if you're using the felpros.
Oops, I'll know for next time. If the quality really is poor are there certain gaskets that you recommend I buy the GM stuff for? Should I purchase some graphite GM head gaskets? I'd rather do it right than regret it later.
The GM MLS gaskets are excellent and forgiving compared to something like a Cometic. Just make sure your surfaces are very clean prior to installing and you will be fine. I thought they were more like 0.054" compressed.
The part #s vary depending on year of your car. Double check to get correct style. The GM graphites are supposed to be OK, but you only want to do this once.
And Vettenuts..... we went over the compressed thickness of the GM MLS gaskets over at LS1tech, and it still wasn't resolved. The GM spec says .060, and one old hand over at LS1tech swears he mic'd them at between.052-.056, so who knows?
Does anyone have part numbers for the GM gaskets? I despise the local dealer so I'd rather order them online.
Contact Gene Culley, he can help you out on the MLS numbers. I find a lot of part numbers have been changing so best to get the latest information from Gene. Here is a link to his current sale, he will help you out
Ok, back from TX. It's a LOT more humid than CA, nice country though. We attempted to get the pulley off tonight, that was a no go . Using a pulley tool that I rented from Autozone we weren't able to pull it off, I think I'm going to need a longer bolt to push on. Does anyone know where I can pick one up without ordering it? I was thinking Home Depot might have one? We have also managed to take a couple of small chunks of metal out of the pulley, will that affect the way it operates? I'll upload a pic once we get it off the car. The cam is STILL not here, I was told Thursday, we'll see...