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H/C garage install progress

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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 02:57 PM
  #61  
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http://www.mcmaster.com

They have just about anything you'd need. And can usually get it to you the next day.
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mdchaser
Any ideas on where to find a tap bolt? I've found one for the smaller bolt holes but the larger one seems to be an odd size... So far autozone is the only place that I've checked and they don't carry it.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...95+4294853264+
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 05:50 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by ErnieN85
TRY Napa

btw be real careful with the scotchbrite & drill on alum.
You don't want to know how I found out
It has turned out OK so far. The block feels very smooth after I get the gasket off, I can see swirl marks but I was told that wouldn't affect anything. I'll make sure to just do the minimum to get the gasket off.
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 06:12 PM
  #64  
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Thanks for the info on the tap, so far summit is the only place that carries the right size . I need to work on it this weekend so I'm just going to dremel out one of the old bolts and use that.
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 03:36 AM
  #65  
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Just got my throttle body back from S2 performance (www.s2performance.com), I am very pleased with the results:



It is very smooth and it seems like he removed quite a bit of material. the whole thing was just over $100 so it was pretty inexpensive.

Aside from that we managed to get the timing cover buttoned up and the pulley back on. I'm not sure if we pushed it on all the way, there is a bit of a gap between the crank shaft tip and the pulley. The belt seems to line up properly so I don't know if it will affect anything.

Last edited by mdchaser; Jul 15, 2007 at 10:55 AM.
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 08:09 AM
  #66  
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The service manual has a measurement for that distance, the end of the crank snout should be 0.094"-0.176" deep inside the balancer hub.
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 10:51 AM
  #67  
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Thanks for the numbers. Everything looks straight and just eyeballing it there seems to be around .2" of space in there. I'll see about measuring it to be sure.

Last edited by mdchaser; Jul 15, 2007 at 10:54 AM.
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 07:00 PM
  #68  
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Follow the procedure (torque with old bolt and then install new) and you should be fine.
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 12:07 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by mdchaser
Just got my throttle body back from S2 performance (www.s2performance.com), I am very pleased with the results:



It is very smooth and it seems like he removed quite a bit of material. the whole thing was just over $100 so it was pretty inexpensive.

Aside from that we managed to get the timing cover buttoned up and the pulley back on. I'm not sure if we pushed it on all the way, there is a bit of a gap between the crank shaft tip and the pulley. The belt seems to line up properly so I don't know if it will affect anything.

looks great. link doesn't work though. what is the hopeful gain for the part?
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 01:24 AM
  #70  
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www.s2performance.net
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 01:51 AM
  #71  
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Oops, typed the link in wrong. I'm only hoping for a couple peak hp, from talking to Mark @ s2 it should liven up the throttle response. He said he's had zero returns and that everyone has been happy. From reading other posts I would say he's right on, a bit more power under the curve and better throttle response, not bad for $100.
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 03:24 PM
  #72  
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Lots of good info here. When I finally do my heads, I will be reading and re-reading this thread!

Any other threads I should read as well???


Any results yet?


Jason
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 01:20 AM
  #73  
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Default Heads are on!

Finally heads are back on, here are some pics:

First head is on:


Second head is on:


Bill working on the valvetrain:


Bill wishing he had hidden the camera:


This is as far as we could get tonight:


I was surprised at how easy it was to torque the heads on, the two of us didn't have a problem using the ls1howto.com method. The best news is that the engine turns over, it's very hard to turn over (is that ok?) but there is no metal on metal action.

Last edited by mdchaser; Jul 18, 2007 at 01:22 AM.
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 05:42 AM
  #74  
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Looks like the plugs are in the heads (photo) so if its hard to turn over sounds like you are building compression and that's OK. Don't forget to lube things up before putting on the valve covers.
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 10:53 AM
  #75  
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Thanks for the input, I'll pull a couple of the plugs out to see if it loosens up. I can turn it, it's just a real pain. I will make sure to douse everything with oil and use lube on anything I can get to before buttoning things up.

Last edited by mdchaser; Jul 18, 2007 at 10:56 AM.
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 11:02 PM
  #76  
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Intake manifold is on, I'll try to get pics tomorrow. It went on pretty smoothly, we had to guesstimate the torque requirements though. Tomorrow evening we should start putting all the big bits back in the engine bay.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 05:27 AM
  #77  
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Default It's done! She fired right up!

It's almost 2:30 am and I am so wired I don't know if I can sleep. Bill and I decided to finish the car up tonight and we did, no major problems! It fired right up and idled smoothly, it makes slightly less noise than my stock setup . Thanks to Bill and all of your help this project went much smoother than I anticipaed, thanks! I'll post the details tomorrow, I've got a few pics and a video of the first startup. G'night for now.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 09:33 AM
  #78  
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(n00b question) is what was done to that TB the same as the shaner TB?

And it's amazing how fast time goes when you're out working on the car
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 11:16 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by mdchaser
It's almost 2:30 am and I am so wired I don't know if I can sleep. Bill and I decided to finish the car up tonight and we did, no major problems! It fired right up and idled smoothly, it makes slightly less noise than my stock setup . Thanks to Bill and all of your help this project went much smoother than I anticipaed, thanks! I'll post the details tomorrow, I've got a few pics and a video of the first startup. G'night for now.
Congrats!!!! Give us an ETA on the dyno tune. I would love to see your graph!!
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 03:08 PM
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I'm not sure what Shaner does to throttlebodies... I did rev it a couple of times and the response was noticeable better than before, I think that was mostly S2s doing.

We managed to not lose a single bolt on this entire project, I think God has a sense of humor because I can't find the oil cap however . I have a startup vidoe that I'll try to convert from quicktime (< evil) to divx or some other useable format.

I didn't expect to finish it last night so I didn't have all the fluids which prompted a late night trip to walmart. I ended up purchasing prestone coolant/power steering fluid/brake fluid, hopefully the stuff is of high enough quality.

Some notable hiccups that I can rember are forgetting to put the coolant stop in the new head so coolant leaked on the first fill, we managed to get it on without tearing anything down though. The oil dipstick was a pain, couldn't figure out where it went for a while. There was one bolt hole on the passenger head that wouldn't take a bolt, just needed some tlc and a lot of cleaning, I blame it on GM. The original harmonic balancer had chunks of metal taken out of it because of the tool we used, should have been more careful. We opened the AC system to the air which I've been told might require replacement of the condensor (crossing fingers on that one). I'll think of more when I'm less tired.

Thanks everyone for the help, this forums has been invaluable. The ls1howto.com guide was great, without it I wouldn't have attempted this. A word of caution however, the guide is not perfect we deviated from it a couple of times to make things easier.

I plan on having it street/dyno tuned as soon as I can afford it. If anyone has suggestions on a good tuner in norther California I would appreciate it, Sacramento would be ideal. I'll post my results.

I am very happy with the way the car runs, at least at idle. Only time will tell but I think the cheatr cam and the patriot heads will make a good combo, it sounds stock idle (except for a bit more ticking which may be the valve train or it may be a minor exhaust leak).

If you are planning on doing something like this put all of the bolts you remove in baggies and label them, I'm still surprised we didn't lose any (for very long at least). My garage is a mess and if I could go back and do it again I would clean it up thoroughly before hand, it would have saved us time hunting for parts.

I'm starting to ramble so it's time to sign off. I'll post the pics/vid the next time I wake up.

Jeff R.
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