H/C garage install progress
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
My opinion:
1. Don't use longer bolt for installation, just check how many guys have installed with this method and ended up with major issues. If you have the time, order a threaded rod and some nuts/washers and make a tool. Cost is under $20.
2. Replace the pulley, not worth the potential problems, consider an undersize at this point.
3. Careful on removal, if you are using the LS1Howto method of pushing on the old bolt you can knock out the crank threads as the pulley gets farther off the crank snout.
1. Don't use longer bolt for installation, just check how many guys have installed with this method and ended up with major issues. If you have the time, order a threaded rod and some nuts/washers and make a tool. Cost is under $20.
2. Replace the pulley, not worth the potential problems, consider an undersize at this point.
3. Careful on removal, if you are using the LS1Howto method of pushing on the old bolt you can knock out the crank threads as the pulley gets farther off the crank snout.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,019
Likes: 0
From: Chico CA
My opinion:
>1. Don't use longer bolt for installation, just check how many guys have installed with this method and ended up with major issues. If you have the time, order a threaded rod and some nuts/washers and make a tool. Cost is under $20.
Have one, do I use it in the same manner? Just thread it in and push on the end? It seems to long for the puller to fit over the end...
>2. Replace the pulley, not worth the potential problems, consider an undersize at this point.
What would be the benefit of a smaller pulley? More importantly where would I order one from, would an Autozone unit be of high enough quality or should I purchase something specific?
>3. Careful on removal, if you are using the LS1Howto method of pushing on the old bolt you can knock out the crank threads as the pulley gets farther off the crank snout.
Thats why we stopped, didn't want to damage anything, the darn thing is almost off too, frustrating.
Thanks for the help!
>1. Don't use longer bolt for installation, just check how many guys have installed with this method and ended up with major issues. If you have the time, order a threaded rod and some nuts/washers and make a tool. Cost is under $20.
Have one, do I use it in the same manner? Just thread it in and push on the end? It seems to long for the puller to fit over the end...
>2. Replace the pulley, not worth the potential problems, consider an undersize at this point.
What would be the benefit of a smaller pulley? More importantly where would I order one from, would an Autozone unit be of high enough quality or should I purchase something specific?
>3. Careful on removal, if you are using the LS1Howto method of pushing on the old bolt you can knock out the crank threads as the pulley gets farther off the crank snout.
Thats why we stopped, didn't want to damage anything, the darn thing is almost off too, frustrating.
Thanks for the help!
Last edited by mdchaser; Jul 4, 2007 at 11:08 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,088
Likes: 2
From: tampa florida
use the 24 mm socket as a spacer. It is what I did.
Here is a link to my H/C and look for the pics there to get an idea of what I did.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1655495
HTH
Brad
Here is a link to my H/C and look for the pics there to get an idea of what I did.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1655495
HTH
Brad
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,894
Likes: 6
From: Sahuarita AZ
My opinion:
>2. Replace the pulley, not worth the potential problems, consider an undersize at this point.
What would be the benefit of a smaller pulley? More importantly where would I order one from, would an Autozone unit be of high enough quality or should I purchase something specific?
>2. Replace the pulley, not worth the potential problems, consider an undersize at this point.
What would be the benefit of a smaller pulley? More importantly where would I order one from, would an Autozone unit be of high enough quality or should I purchase something specific?
Matt
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,019
Likes: 0
From: Chico CA
I would recommend a ASP 25% under drive pulley. The under drive will under drive your accessories and has the potential to give you some more hp. If you've damaged your pulley I would not reinstall it as it is also known as a harmonic dampener and if it's missing metal it might not work very well leaving you with vibration. The vibration could also cause it to wobble off the crank. I wouldn't risk it.
Matt
Matt
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,894
Likes: 6
From: Sahuarita AZ
It will run your accessories at 25% less than they are currently running. I didn't notice anything substantial with my AC (and I live in the arm pit of hot weather) or my steering.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,019
Likes: 0
From: Chico CA
use the 24 mm socket as a spacer. It is what I did.
Here is a link to my H/C and look for the pics there to get an idea of what I did.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1655495
HTH
Brad
Here is a link to my H/C and look for the pics there to get an idea of what I did.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1655495
HTH
Brad
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Whippany NJ
CI 6-7-8-9 Veteran
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,019
Likes: 0
From: Chico CA
Thanks, have you had any experience with this setup? I'm curious as I'm not really sure what to expect when it is finished. The finals mods list should look like this:
Vararam intake
S2 performance throttlebody
Patriot stage 2 heads
TR Cheatr cam
B&B bullet catback
Z06 swaybars
Eventually (sooner rather than later I hope) I will get it tuned, I burned to much $$$ on small things to do it right away.
Vararam intake
S2 performance throttlebody
Patriot stage 2 heads
TR Cheatr cam
B&B bullet catback
Z06 swaybars
Eventually (sooner rather than later I hope) I will get it tuned, I burned to much $$$ on small things to do it right away.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,019
Likes: 0
From: Chico CA
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,019
Likes: 0
From: Chico CA
Just a short updated as I finally had some more time to work on the car. The timing cover is off and the new cam is in. It is a TR Cheatr cam that actually specs more aggressively than what they advertise, I'm happy with that 
. Now I'm stuck getting the lower sprocket off so I can put my new timing chain on, back to autozone to pick up the pulley puller again. Then I get to clean out all of the bolt holes as it looks like the coolant I let sit there for a week congealed and is coating the sides, gonna be fun. My goal is to work on it this coming week and have it done by next weekend, we'll see how that turns out .
. Now I'm stuck getting the lower sprocket off so I can put my new timing chain on, back to autozone to pick up the pulley puller again. Then I get to clean out all of the bolt holes as it looks like the coolant I let sit there for a week congealed and is coating the sides, gonna be fun. My goal is to work on it this coming week and have it done by next weekend, we'll see how that turns out .
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,019
Likes: 0
From: Chico CA
Yeah, if I use a flashlight I can see some red gunk, I'm just going to dremel out a bolt and use the grease cleaning method to get them all spotless.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,088
Likes: 2
From: tampa florida
MD glad the socket trick worked for you. 
I would encourge you to rethink the underdrive pulley. I initially was like you and didn't want to spend the extrra money for it, however in the long run I am glad I did.
My AC works perfect and I run a mega stereo system, 2K watt subs, 400 X4 with a 3 farad capcitor and the big 3 wire job, and I have no issues at all with the stock alternator.
Here is the thing though that I have discovered. Aside from forced induction/nitrous once you do heads and cam, you big HP gains are over. And with you being in CA, you are limited at what size cam you can run and still pass emissions. So that leaves you to the point of having to maximize your HP dollars. And your dollar cost per HP just goes up from here.
I spent 249.00 on my SLP underdrive (http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...5&BIG=100225-1)
I borrowed half and sold something for the other half. I am glad I did. It is a much better peice then the stock pulley. If that stock pulley gives out on you then you will have some possibly serious repairs to do.
You are already there anyways, I would enouage you to find a way to get it done. Even if you have to wait for a week or two, it is well worth it.
Just my two cents.
Wishing you the best of luck
Brad
I would encourge you to rethink the underdrive pulley. I initially was like you and didn't want to spend the extrra money for it, however in the long run I am glad I did.
My AC works perfect and I run a mega stereo system, 2K watt subs, 400 X4 with a 3 farad capcitor and the big 3 wire job, and I have no issues at all with the stock alternator.
Here is the thing though that I have discovered. Aside from forced induction/nitrous once you do heads and cam, you big HP gains are over. And with you being in CA, you are limited at what size cam you can run and still pass emissions. So that leaves you to the point of having to maximize your HP dollars. And your dollar cost per HP just goes up from here.
I spent 249.00 on my SLP underdrive (http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...5&BIG=100225-1)
I borrowed half and sold something for the other half. I am glad I did. It is a much better peice then the stock pulley. If that stock pulley gives out on you then you will have some possibly serious repairs to do.
You are already there anyways, I would enouage you to find a way to get it done. Even if you have to wait for a week or two, it is well worth it.
Just my two cents.
Wishing you the best of luck
Brad
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,019
Likes: 0
From: Chico CA
Another update
Finally more time to work on the car. Tonight we managed to pull the lower timing chain sprocket off the crank and replace it with a rollmaster double chain setup. I was a bit worried about the timing but things seem to have lined up properly. The oil pump is back on and now I'm waiting on a new timing cover/crank shaft seal, autozone doesn't carry them in stock 
. I also managed to get some of the old head gasket material off with a scotchbrite pad and a drill. If things go well the whole thing should be done by this weekend!
. I also managed to get some of the old head gasket material off with a scotchbrite pad and a drill. If things go well the whole thing should be done by this weekend!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,019
Likes: 0
From: Chico CA
Timing cover has a new seal/gasket and is finally back on the car. I pushed the new pulley most of the way on, the rest can wait until tomorrow. The scotch brite pads are working great, most of both gaskets have been removed. I still need to find a tap for the large bolt holes so I can clean them out, anyone know where I can find one? Autozone doesn't have the right size of course.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,019
Likes: 0
From: Chico CA
Any ideas on where to find a tap bolt? I've found one for the smaller bolt holes but the larger one seems to be an odd size... So far autozone is the only place that I've checked and they don't carry it.
