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^ That is why YT's instructions avoids that part... shimming the rocker up would move the wipe pattern "back" toward the manifold right?
It makes sense to set that then get proper pushrods, however, assuming your pushrods are of acceptable length, as mine were, adding the shims would get you less pre-load, as shimming lessense the distance the rocer arm unit can move dowm when going from zero lash to wrench tight.
Adding shims increase the fulcrum height and moves the pattern towards the exhaust manifold. A 0.045" shim will increase pushrod length by 0.071" since you have to run through a parallel triangle to get the height increase at the pushrod due to a height increase at the fulcrum.
Adding shims increase the fulcrum height and moves the pattern towards the exhaust manifold. A 0.045" shim will increase pushrod length by 0.071" since you have to run through a parallel triangle to get the height increase at the pushrod due to a height increase at the fulcrum.
Here are the area's to look at for contact. Contact near the pushrod cup will also shift the pushrod laterally (or try to). Contact near the spring would be due to the large retainer on a dual spring. Since the HS rockers are anodized, you should see something just by inspection.
Okay..there is no sign of wear in the roller area from hitting the retainer on the spring...I have dual springs as I thought. The cup that the tip of the push rod rides is a even circle wear.
YT seem to be a better RR than the HS..depends on who you ask. I ordered a set of YT to see it they will help with my sewing machine sound..
The specs seem to indicate the YT's are definitely lighter which is a plus. There have been a few sets of the HS for sale recently, pretty good prices. They're the setup that uses a shaft to tie together pairs (not full on shaft mount) - they say that's supposed to reduce deflection and create a more stable valvetrain (?)
I'm worry about the horror stories of people having an OEM rocker come apart and shower the motor with needle bearings
VetteNuts: You-da-Man.
I think I agree with everything you said in this thread.
With this much good info Ol Sleeper should whip his noise problem, then he can live up to his nickname.
FWIW, my main concern is durability - I don't know if a big cam is more abusive the the rockers?
Here's how I view it. I found my stock rockers had a wide wipe pattern and some of them were wiping on the side of the valve stem (front to back when looking at the head from the side of the car). I have seen others report similar findings. With a stock spring and low lift of the stock cam, the loads into the valve guides were probably acceptable to GM with this setup. Now you come along and install an aftermarket cam that has larger lift. This sets the rocker contact point when closed closer to the intake and the larger lift increases the wipe length. Both of these factors are bad for guide wear. Next, consider the stiffer valve springs, this exacerbates the situation ever more since you likely have a poor wipe pattern and higher spring loads. The stock rockers are very well purpose designed parts, but my personal opinion is that aftermarket cam/spring loads will cause premature valve guide issues as compared to the stock motor. A correctly set aftermarket roller rocker will narrow the wipe pattern and is stiffer than the stock rocker, and thus better suited to handle the higher spring loads and larger lifts.
this is the way it sounds with the 7.425 push rods:
7.400 lifters:
Yup! there is a lot of noise there!
More so than there should be! Mine do make noise with the HS RR's but not quite that much!
It made about that much when the 3.750's were in but with the 4.00's it still makes the sewing machine noise, like I stated to you that with the 15W 50 Mobile1 it did make a difference.
I have a feeling that with 4.25's it would be perfect (Adjustment would work too according with where my current adjustment is at! )
The specs seem to indicate the YT's are definitely lighter which is a plus. There have been a few sets of the HS for sale recently, pretty good prices. They're the setup that uses a shaft to tie together pairs (not full on shaft mount) - they say that's supposed to reduce deflection and create a more stable valvetrain (?)
I'm worry about the horror stories of people having an OEM rocker come apart and shower the motor with needle bearings
In my comparison..I noticed that the shaft on the YT is larger in diameter than the shaft on the HS rocker shaft.
More so than there should be! Mine do make noise with the HS RR's but not quite that much!
It made about that much when the 3.750's were in but with the 4.00's it still makes the sewing machine noise, like I stated to you that with the 15W 50 Mobile1 it did make a difference.
I have a feeling that with 4.25's it would be perfect (Adjustment would work too according with where my current adjustment is at! )
Keep me informed! I got your latest PM.
Thanks,Matt
Amazing some of us can hear that and others can't..
Some of us love it and some of us don't.
Thanks everyone for the education on this subject. I'm waiting for the PR Checker and the YT RR to come in and then I'll post here what I found out.
Thanks
Sleeper
Hey Sleeper - Its my car that Vettenuts is working on and Yes the shims were in the package(.045 thick). I just ordered my 7.500 p.rods.
When we put the shims in the wipe moved about 1/32" to center and is now dead on. That caused the the need for extra lenght rods.
It will be fun to see who gets all this right first.
Good luck
BTW I have sent Vettenuts to the beach for some R & R which he really needs after all this.
Hope you also gave him his favorite six pack beverage
Well none of the good stuff ac come in yet to continue the work on this project of solving the sew machine sound to with in acceptance.
I email Patriot heads and explained to Gunnar what probles I was having with the other than normal valve train noise and the two sets of different push rods I have tried to limit the sewing machine sound.
This is his reply back: "The pushrod is probably correct, the source of the notice could be the valve springs. The heads come with the Patriot Gold springs. They sometimes have a tendency to cause a slight sewing machine sound because of them being dual springs and the greater seat pressures".
So I hope I don't have to go in and change valve springs as a last resort in quieting this sound down.
Well none of the good stuff ac come in yet to continue the work on this project of solving the sew machine sound to with in acceptance.
I email Patriot heads and explained to Gunnar what probles I was having with the other than normal valve train noise and the two sets of different push rods I have tried to limit the sewing machine sound.
This is his reply back: "The pushrod is probably correct, the source of the notice could be the valve springs. The heads come with the Patriot Gold springs. They sometimes have a tendency to cause a slight sewing machine sound because of them being dual springs and the greater seat pressures".
So I hope I don't have to go in and change valve springs as a last resort in quieting this sound down.
Not real sure about that. Got a LS2, that makes 500 rwhp, thru single exhaust, and a great big rearend, with a 'custom cam', dual springs, and it makes NO NOISE.
Not real sure about that. Got a LS2, that makes 500 rwhp, thru single exhaust, and a great big rearend, with a 'custom cam', dual springs, and it makes NO NOISE.
Well all I have to do is wait until I get the PR checker and the YT RR to see what is really needed for PR lenght...
Hope my lil cam and heads will be more like a regular sewing machine sound.