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I saw this, but their instructions are very generic and not specific to the LS1. I plan to stick with the GM number of 22 lb-ft, especially since we have bare aluminum threads in the head.
If 22 lb-ft is good enough for you..it's good enough for me...
Thx
My bad..yes they should be bleed down..thanks for advising me of the correction..
I thought so,Thats the way I did mine.Just get the sloppyness out of the rockers when turning the bolt down on each rocker and count your turns from there,Its not brain surgery so don't get nervous .............Paul
I thought so,Thats the way I did mine.Just get the sloppyness out of the rockers when turning the bolt down on each rocker and count your turns from there,Its not brain surgery so don't get nervous .............Paul
Okay,
I did the wipe w/o any shims.
The whip pattern was toward the exhaust manifold. To me this may be caused by the push rods being too long. Am I wright?
Here is a picture of what it looked like.
Okay,
I did the wipe w/o any shims of the roller contact on the valve steem tip.
The whip pattern was toward the exhaust manifold. To me this may be caused by the push rods being too long. Am I wright?
Here is a picture of what it looked like.
Not caused by the length of the pushrod; remember, you have hydraulic lifters, they adjust (within reason).
To move the pattern requires modifying the geometry. Let VN respond, he may say you are within range already.
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; Aug 30, 2007 at 06:47 PM.
Not caused by the length of the pushrod; remember, you have hydraulic lifters, they adjust (within reason).
To move the pattern requires modifying the geometry, i.e. shims. Let VN respond, he may say you are within range already; if not, shims under the rockers would move the pattern toward the intake (which is what you want).
Sent you a PM too, basically your rockers are too high. I think Yella Terra makes a shorter pedestal, you need to contact them. Other option is to machine down the pedestals your have. One way you may be able to figure out how much is to get two washer stacks (cheap washers) that have an OD of the smaller diameter of the rocker pedestal, stack them up a little shorter than the pedestal and install the rockers with the washer stacks so you can adjust your wipe by moving the rocker downward. This will help you come up with the required installation height. Can you see a wipe pattern on your other valves from the Harlands? Bet they were off as well.
Vettenuts here, we are finishing up 04bluegoose's car. One more thought. Lashing caps will also correct this. I believe the LS7 used lash caps on the titanium valves, this might be an option. The lash caps won't require any machining, but not sure what is available for the LSx valves. I can snoop around later today, but check with the LS7 guys in the C6 section, see if they know the LS7 uses caps and any dimensions from them.
Sent you a PM too, basically your rockers are too high. I think Yella Terra makes a shorter pedestal, you need to contact them. Other option is to machine down the pedestals your have. One way you may be able to figure out how much is to get two washer stacks (cheap washers) that have an OD of the smaller diameter of the rocker pedestal, stack them up a little shorter than the pedestal and install the rockers with the washer stacks so you can adjust your wipe by moving the rocker downward. This will help you come up with the required installation height. Can you see a wipe pattern on your other valves from the Harlands? Bet they were off as well.
Are you using check springs?
I can check the HS rocker's wipe and see how they look...I noticed that the YT pedestals have a thicker base than the HS.
I don't know what what check springs are.
Is the wipe suppose to be in the center are closer to the intake?
Thanks,
Sleeper
Ideal is center of the valve stem. If you are going to error, better to error closer to the intake in my opinion. The reason being at full valve open (assuming the pattern is a little closer to the intake side) the roller will be near the valve stem center such that max spring load will have minimum side loads against the valve guide.
I think I made it home this time.
With the help of all you guys and the finalization with AVB
I'm using the Yella Terra RR with the shims provided on 7.425 p-rods. With the rockers in place and finger tighten to where the p-rods were snug in the caps and the roller on the valve stems giving no pressure on the push rod to move up or down.
Then I torqued the bolts to 22 Ft-Lbs (although YT recommended 25 Ft-Lbs.). It took exactly 1/2 turn to reach the 22 Ft-Lbs.
I allso figured out how to get the wipe pattern and it is in the center of the valve steem and it's a thin line (.060).
So tomorrow I'll be firing it up to see how quiet it is and if it isn't, I'll have to use the p-rod checker when it come in.
Thanks to all of you for helping me out and providing skillful information to everyone. You guys and CF are awesome
The cam we installed has very aggressive lobes. It has some noise that I can only describe as "well oiled mechanical" like an old open factory machine. It has no valve train noise. The noise we hear is radiating through the intake. When you shut the hood, you can't really hear it.
The cam we installed has very aggressive lobes. It has some noise that I can only describe as "well oiled mechanical" like an old open factory machine. It has no valve train noise. The noise we hear is radiating through the intake. When you shut the hood, you can't really hear it.
Congrats
That is great to hear (no pon intended) hope the YT work for me, seems the shims put them in the right spot for the 7.425 p-rods. I'm hoping for the same the old sound, but not that of solid lifters. I have install plug, coil packs and wires; then fire it up.
Sleeper
Vettenuts here, we are finishing up 04bluegoose's car. One more thought. Lashing caps will also correct this. I believe the LS7 used lash caps on the titanium valves, this might be an option. The lash caps won't require any machining, but not sure what is available for the LSx valves. I can snoop around later today, but check with the LS7 guys in the C6 section, see if they know the LS7 uses caps and any dimensions from them.
Thanks for the info..hopefully I won't have to go that rout.
Congrats
That is great to hear (no pon intended) hope the YT work for me, seems the shims put them in the right spot for the 7.425 p-rods. I'm hoping for the same the old sound, but not that of solid lifters. I have install plug, coil packs and wires; then fire it up.
Sleeper
AVB..I sent you a PM on what went on with the startup tonight...
The YT has made the sewing machine sound quieter and bearable. All I hear is the even sound of a near stock sewing machine sound along with the intake noise.
I can hear the fans when they come on now
The p-rods were checked without the p-rod checker because it hasn't arrived yet. I will use it when it comes in just to see how close Iam to having the correct p-rods
Again a big THANKS to you and everyone who helped me on this project.
AVB..I sent you a PM on what went on with the startup tonight...
The YT has made the sewing machine sound quieter and bearable. All I hear is the even sound of a near stock sewing machine sound along with the intake noise.
I can hear the fans when they come on now
The p-rods were checked without the p-rod checker because it hasn't arrived yet. I will use it when it comes in just to see how close Iam to having the correct p-rods
Again a big THANKS to you and everyone who helped me on this project.