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I'm trying to figure out what is draining my battery. The battery is one month old and I went to start it for the first time in 3 weeks and it wouldn't start. The battery wasn't completley dead (interior lights came on, fob worked, etc), but it would not turn over. Had to jump start it and it appears to be fully charged again (guage reads 13 - 14), and has started several times since. I pulled the codes, but no new codes.
If something is draining my battery, will a code be thrown? If not, can a technician determine what is draining the battery?
When you say it appears fully charged (13-14), are you reading the voltage from the DIC ? YES
If so is that reading when the car is running? YES
Or is it with the car off and key turned to ACC? If running you are seeing the output voltage of the alternator not that of the battery.
When you put the new battery in did you drive the car for an hour or more on the new battery or just briefly and then leave it parked? I drove it around briefly after putting the battery in but during the next few days, I drove around quite a bit.
New batterys are NOT at full charge when you (or a shop) install them. They have enough of a charge to start the car and a bit more but need to be fully charged by either driving the vehicle for an hour or more with as few accessories on as possible or by using a trickle charger such as a battery tender.
I'd measure the voltage with a digital volt meter with the engine off. If the battery is truely fully charged expect to see something around 12.5 volts. (a reading of 12.1 won't cut it if you leave the car parked for weeks at a time.) If a digital volt meter does show a reading less than 12.5 would it be worth my while to hook the battery up to a trickle charger to fully charge the battery?
Read through this thread to see a bit more or do a search on battery.
With some technical skills and the correct type of meter that can read up to 10 amps of current, you can certainly use Bill Curleys thread to track it down. I'd start with the simple stuff and charge it up fully and then see if it drains down again after several weeks of being parked. Your personal stuff says your from Ma. and Fl. If the car is currently located in Ma. where it is probably pretty cold, the battery may go down somewhat just from the cold. When I lived in Ct. I used to keep my car on the battery tender all winter, disconnecting it when the weather was nice enough to drive the car.
Chuck S.
Thanks for the input. I'll trickle charge the battery until it is fully charged, then I'll use the correct meter to check the amps. I'll then use the Bill Curlee thread to locate the drain. The car is in Florida year round.
Again, thanks all for the quick responses. I appreciate it.
Thanks for the input. I'll trickle charge the battery until it is fully charged, then I'll use the correct meter to check the amps. I'll then use the Bill Curlee thread to locate the drain. The car is in Florida year round.
Again, thanks all for the quick responses. I appreciate it.
Use the AMP Meter and see how much current the car is consuming when it is in sleep mode. It should be very close to 25 ma.
Often a culprtit for draining the battery is the driver's side electric seat adjuster---Mine was bad--stayed on all the time--finally i just dis-connected the pigtails under the seat--fixed---
Use the AMP Meter and see how much current the car is consuming when it is in sleep mode. It should be very close to 25 ma.
BC
I'm about as technical as Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer... What brand/type of meter should I buy that will do the job?
Originally Posted by tblu92
Often a culprtit for draining the battery is the driver's side electric seat adjuster---Mine was bad--stayed on all the time--finally i just dis-connected the pigtails under the seat--fixed---
My original battery was drained last month by a bad relay under the passenger side seat. I replaced the battery, and drove to the dealership and they diagnosed the passenger relay and replaced it. A GMPP is a wonderful thing
I don't hear any sounds coming from the drivers side area, but not sure if I should if the driver's side electric seat adjuster is bad.
Go to radio shack, sears, and even Auto Zone or Advanced. You do not need to get fancy or expensive. You need to measure AC Volts, DC Volts, Resistance (ohms) and Current. The meter should be able read to at least 10 AMPS. You should be able to find one for around $30-$50 bucks.
Ask the person at Radio Shack for help getting one with those specs. if that is where you go. I've had reasonable luck with knowledgeable folk at their stores (Ask for the manager, they should know their product line).
I also believe that the thread has pics and diagrams of how and where to connect the meter. Read the thread carefully if you are going to try this yourself expecially since you seem to have reservations about your technical/mechanical skills. Perhaps even printing it off so you have a guide in front of you if you tackle this yourself. You could take it to a shop but the cost of chasing electrical problems can get big in a hurry. It is usually time and materials and they won't tell you how long it is going to take because they don't know what they are getting into. Not sure what the hourly rate is in your area but in Tucson most places are in the $65 to $90 per hour range.
Hopefully the process of fully charging your battery will resolve the discharge problem you think you have and you won't have to go through this.
Has the battery come up to full charge yet?
Good Luck.
Chuck S.
I started to trickle charged the battery yesterday at 5:00 PM and the trickle charger indicated full charge at 10:AM EST this morning.
I'm trying to figure out what is draining my battery. The battery is one month old and I went to start it for the first time in 3 weeks and it wouldn't start. The battery wasn't completley dead (interior lights came on, fob worked, etc), but it would not turn over. Had to jump start it and it appears to be fully charged again (guage reads 13 - 14), and has started several times since. I pulled the codes, but no new codes.
If something is draining my battery, will a code be thrown? If not, can a technician determine what is draining the battery?
Thanks in advance for your help.
the not driving it for 3weeks part is draining it.
There is a large draw on the battery while sitting idle. Anything over 2 weeks of non driving you will see some issues. A battery tender should be used if you are not driving that often.
Their lumbar switch staying active is probably just what they said to charge GM. Let it sit again for 3 weeks and see what happens.
When i use my "lumbar switches" i can hear the motor running dont you?
the not driving it for 3weeks part is draining it.
There is a large draw on the battery while sitting idle. Anything over 2 weeks of non driving you will see some issues. A battery tender should be used if you are not driving that often.
Their lumbar switch staying active is probably just what they said to charge GM. Let it sit again for 3 weeks and see what happens.
When i use my "lumbar switches" i can hear the motor running dont you?
I have been letting the car sit for 3 weeks at a time since I bought it in September of 05 and never had a problem until a switch under the passenger seat drained the original battery. In that case, the passenger seat would make a clicking noice every 30 seconds or so with the car off or on. After I got that issue fixed, I thought my battery problems were over. Came back 3 weeks later and the new battery was just about dead and as I mentioned, the lumbar circuit, according to the dealership, was the culprit.
Anyway, I'm going to let it sit as I usually do and see what happens.
I just keep a digital charger on when I won't be driving it more than a few days........
I could do the same, but why should I have to? Not starting the car for a few weeks should not drain the battery to the point of the car not starting. Am I wrong in my thinking? If so, I have no problem hooking up a battery tender while I'm not driving it for a few weeks. I guess I'm being a bit stubborn since I never had to put a battery tender on it before.
The computers are on all the time and will drain a good battery in three weeks so that the car will not start. Lets say that you drive one day out of 20 and the car starts, the battery life will be shortened due to the constant computer drain the other 19 days. The rested battery drain is about 20 ma. You need to drive the car more, hook up a charger to the battery or disconnect the battery.
The computers are on all the time and will drain a good battery in three weeks so that the car will not start.
It will take much longer than 3 weeks to drain a good fully charged battery down to a no start condition.
I calculated it once and it was more like 2 months at 20 mA draw for a good battery.
If a fully charged battery is not starting the car after sitting for 3 weeks then: a) the battery is defective and losing it's charge due self discharging or b) the parasitic draw is way over 20 mA in sleep mode.
I could do the same, but why should I have to? Not starting the car for a few weeks should not drain the battery to the point of the car not starting. Am I wrong in my thinking? If so, I have no problem hooking up a battery tender while I'm not driving it for a few weeks. I guess I'm being a bit stubborn since I never had to put a battery tender on it before.
I agree completely ....guess I just do it to be on the safe side. Kind of crazy doing it with a 50K car.