OK - checked all the fuses and they all get the correct power and they are all good.

The car only gave me one hard start problem a week ago, and never before that. When it happened, I had left it sitting for about 45 minutes after a 20 minute drive and came back to a no-start. After about 20 tries, it stumble-started, like I had a batch of bad gas. Once it stumbled through that, it ran fine. Came out the other day to take it for a ride, and got it to start after about 30 tries, but this time it fired up like nothing happened - no stumble. Today, nothing. It turns and turns no problem, but will not fire. Now I've done everything in this thread and nothing has changed. What's next?

Oh, and there are no codes whatsoever...

Also pulled plugs - light brown, all around .038 gap. Do I have a fuel pump issue?

 

When you turn the ignition to ON/RUN,,, do you hear the fuel pump HUM for approx 5 -6 seconds and then stop???

Trying to isolate what would cause an engine to crank but not fire and run.

How are you reading the DTCs and are you reading them without turning the ignition OFF. When you have a NO START EVENT,, press reset to clear any message and read the DTCs....

Bill

 

I do NOT hear the fuel pump run. The fuse to it is fine - seems odd that it would not be working, but maybe that's it? It has always been so much quieter than my old '99 that I don't even expect to hear the pump, but I suppose I should hear something.

The car spent all of it's life in Texas and has rarely seen the road here in Ohio. Every ground connection has been clean clean clean. I'm reading the DTC's with the key on ON and by manually scrolling through them using the gauge buttons. No Codes all the way through.

 

The fuel pump should be your very first area of concern.. Start there and let us know what you find. When you KEY ON,,,,,,,, it should run for a few seconds.

BC

 

It's always the simplest things... I didn't see it mentioned in this post (though it may be), but found the answer in another post Pewter had regarding this same issue - and it's the relay. He mentioned swapping the fuel pump relay for the horn relay in his post, and sure enough, that did it. Now when power goes to the horn, the old fuel pump relay buzzes, but it didn't make a sound when in the #35 spot. I read some other comments that say to only use the GM relay, not a generic replacement, which these are. Whether or not that is correct, I'll drop in to the dealer today and get several of these. Thanks for the help, Bill

 

Mr. Bill Curlee,
I wish to thank you in your exceptional review and repair of the 1997-04 ignition switch Chevrolet Corvette. My wife and I have had an on-going issue with the vehicle starting and driving for four to six months. So bad, she will not drive the vehicle as it my leave her stranded and I would have to remedy the no start. The vehicle will sometimes start or hesitate to start. When it hesitates to start, the dash cluster will die completely (no cluster sweep), no pump fuel engagement, or sometimes the starter will clunk, disengage-clunk on and off rapidly. I would drive it and the vehicle would die under 5mph speed with no switch power, leaving us at great risk stalled in traffic.
I’m mechanically inclined, so I got to fix this so she can drive it. I found a Delco ignition switch (D1499C) on Amazon for 43.91 shipped. So I started off into Google and found that my old haunt The Corvette Forum may have an answer. Searched for how to install an ignition switch and found your review/repair post. I said “..what the hell, I’ve got one coming anyway!” and ripped into the vehicle. And what do you know, the same two contacts/spring-contacts totally charred. I polished those surface areas to an almost shine, cleaned the area of debris, and reassembled the switch (properly). Then I reinstalled the switch into the vehicle, reconnected the battery and with 30 random key cycles not a failure, hiccup, or no-start condition.




My wife and I do appreciate the kind review and the service that you and this forum exchange information to help those in need. And now, we've gotta drive her vehicle.. *big smiles*

airdeano

 

Heres another useful thread that I made last night. I see people with this issue all the time:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1580770529

BC

 

Bill, you saved my bacon yet again buddy!! The last time was when I was getting water in the BCM well and you showed me where the drain plugs were and how clogged up they can get...well this time it was the no start scenario and after buying a new key (figued the contacts on the old one were worn down), still had this issue. Long story short, I took the ignition switch off, performed the Curlee surgery on the contacts and VIOLA!!!, starts up everytime, no issues. I have a long running bill with you my friend and am afraid to ask what the total is now! You a blessing and inspiration to our community Bill...can't thank you enough

Best regards

Mo (your Canadian apprentice!)

 

Great write up Bill!

 

Bill,

What about the "pull key, wait 10 sec" message? I've been getting it lately. I tried cleaning it with compressed air and electronic spray. The only time it starts without getting the message is when I spray the key with the alcohol cleaner right before I insert it. If I don't spray it I get the message. It's the same with both keys. What would you suggest?

Thanks,

Rock

 

Does this sound like an ign switch issue?

Car runs fine, but when I turn it off and remove the key, the chime dings like the key is still in the ignition. If I try to lock the doors, it double dings like it's telling me the key is still in there.

 

Now the new switch is acting up. I tried cleaning the key a few times, pushing it in and out and it worked for awhile. It was the worst the other day and refused to connect and the battery got weak. I opened the hood to boost it and tried once more and it worked, flooded but I got it running. I started using the spare key and it worked for awhile and then it acted up again today. Where do I go from here?

 

The small switch in the center of the switches controls that function. Its difficult to fix that switch Just make sure that it moving and working...

 

The pull key deals with the column lock function. If I were you,,, I would install the column lock bypass or the LMC5 bypass before you get stranded.

Bill

 

bill, can i call you,,very hard to explain problem..if so my email address is lolosmaggie@gmail.com Thank you so much.....

 

Wow! After reading all 11 pages, I guess I'll try to see why my security light is coming on and staying on. It's been great weather lately so I've been parking the Z and taking the bike. Occasionally I would get a Charge System Fault on startup..so not sure if I have an ignition switch issue or battery going flakey. This morning though, the security light stayed on after startup. I killed the car, restarted, it went off but came back on after driving a few hundred yards. So I went back home, got my 2nd key, and the light stayed off till after about 30 miles. Got to work, killed it, restarted and it's off. Need to go out at lunch and pull codes.

So Bill, in your most excellent wisdom, which way to go? Battery, or pop out the ignition switch?

Richard

 

Like to say thank you to bill. This helped me out. Mine was also burnt pretty bad. So thank youfor taking the head time to help us all. Reggie

 

I picked up a used ignition switch off flea bay. I wanted to use it as a spare and fix the contacts and just swap switches to save down time. I need some idea on how to remove cylinder on the replacement switch. I have no key.

 

Bill Curlee has a complete step by step, with pictures posted. Do a forum search.

 

Really??
I'll look again. I've seen the how to on cleaning the contacts, but on how to remove the lock cylinder WITHOUT the key??

Still looking