This procedure assumes you have correctly set your geometry (wipe pattern) first.


This is assuming you have the Comp Cams adjustable pushrod, which at its shortest length is 6.800".

Each turn of the adjustable pushrod is 0.050". When fully closed, it is 6.800". This is pushrod "gauge length" so you can't measure it directly as the pushrod length is actually based on the length between the ball ends where the ball end measures 0.140" in diameter. Assuming you are using stock rockers or a non-adjustable rocker.

1. Open the adjustable pushrod to the same length as your stock pushrods
2. Close it down two turns
3. Put your rocker rail on the head
4. Make sure you cylinder (typically #1) is at top dead center on the firing stroke so both valves would be closed
5. Put the pushrod in place on the intake valve and make sure it is in the lifter cup
6. Install the rocker and snug down the bolt (don't need to torque, just make sure it is snug)
7. Lift rocker tip up and down, if it "ticks" the pushrod is too short. If you can't easily move the rocker the pushrod is too long.
8. You can try and adjust the pushrod in place but my fingers are too fat so I end up pulling the rocker and adjusting the pushrod length. Go either shorter or longer 1/2 turn and try again.
9. You are trying to get to the point where the lifter doesn't "tick tick" with the pushrod in place nor is the rocker snug. When you get the pushrod length such that you just barely get rid of the "tick tick", you have found "zero lash".
10. When you have found zero lash, carefully remove the rocker and pushrod without rotating the pushrod.
11. Tighten the pushrod until it is fully closed counting the turns as you go.

To figure out your pushrod length you do the following. Let’s assume it took 10-1/2 turns to close the pushrod down to its shortest length after you reached zero lash. Each turn is 0.050".

Your length is then: 6.800" (fully closed length) + 10.5 X 0.050" (number of turns times the length change per turn) = pushrod length minus preload. So for this case:

6.800 +10.5 X 0.050 = 7.325"

This is the length you measured to zero lash without any lifter preload. Now let’s say you want to have 0.075" lifter preload, you add that to the measured number and you end up with 7.400" pushrods.

Now repeat for the exhaust valve to verify the length. If you have something like Yella Terra's, it is the same procedure but you must snug down the rocker pair rather than the single rocker.

 

Will LS7 lifters work? just asking as I might be able to find a used set on the C6 forum.

 

Thanks for the explanation!

 

Might wanna check this out before you consider caddy lifters.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=877105

 

Not worth buying used, too critical an item.

 

Does anyone know if older LS blocks can be drilled and tapped to accept the LS2 chain dampner?

 

I raised the question to Gene Culley, but he was not sure if the LS2 damper would fit the LS1/6 block.

 

It won;t fit as bolt spacing is different. I don't believe the pad locations on the earlier blocks will support new holes.

 

Are injectors really needed for the typical 420-430 rwhp this combo will net??

 

Mine were over 100% duty cycle at 393 hp, and that was around 6,200 RPM. I say yes.

 

My 02 Z injectors were maxed out under full throttle when I was at 395 HP 375 Tq. I went to 42 lb/hr and they seem to be doing fine.

As for the CADDY Lifters, I guess Ill be a TEST BED! They have been great so far 3500 miles and still going!

BC