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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 06:16 AM
  #21  
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Great pictures! Can you shoot one of the location of the relay?

Thanks!
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 10:20 AM
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Did you just cut the black seal and try to spray the adhesive cleaner in the crack between the circuit board plate and the housing? It sounds like a bear to get these separated!
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 11:52 AM
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You might want to just try and resoldering the relay to the circuit board and see if it works. Maybe just test the relay before you actually go about stripping all that silicone.

I had sent an email to the guy who fixes the EBCM unit and he told me resoldering the legs of the relay would solve my problem. Worth a try.
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by leowiz
You might want to just try and resoldering the relay to the circuit board and see if it works. Maybe just test the relay before you actually go about stripping all that silicone.

I had sent an email to the guy who fixes the EBCM unit and he told me resoldering the legs of the relay would solve my problem. Worth a try.
I was referring to separating the circuit board/plate side from the aluminum housing side. It looks like getting them apart is tough, but necessary to even get at the circuit board.
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by chiefsr
I was referring to separating the circuit board/plate side from the aluminum housing side. It looks like getting them apart is tough, but necessary to even get at the circuit board.
True.

I was telling Evilash to maybe try and see if the relay is fine and maybe resoldering it to the circuit board might just solve the issue (while he is waiting for a new relay). To take the relay apart and install a new one seems like a lot of work too. I am not sure how to remove all that resin that was poured all over the components.

A 12V supply and a voltmeter should confirm if the relay is working fine.
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 02:08 PM
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Right on...good idea. It's worth I try if you are waiting on a replacement.
I just got two in the mail today. Like $6 or so.
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 05:57 PM
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I looked over the solder joints and they looked ok. I guess I should give it a shot to resolder.
I got most of the stuff out with a little knife but haven't removed the relay.

I poured the adhesive cleaner around the little gap after cutting out the black rtv.
But I also used a micro torch and ran it around the outside edge for a minute.

I'll try the resolder technic and do a test install sometime soon.

Thanks,
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 01:21 PM
  #28  
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Default Mileage anyone?

Can a few of you guys post what mileage you have when this problem appears?
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by beninchesapeake
Can a few of you guys post what mileage you have when this problem appears?
Mine is an 02 C5. The problem started a few months ago with about 20k miles on it.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by beninchesapeake
Can a few of you guys post what mileage you have when this problem appears?
I do not believe it has any thing to do with mileage. My 02 ZO6 had it fail at 30.000 miles and it was 30 day out of warranty. Had to FIGHT for GM to cover it. They did.

The relat just fails because it a poor quality relay. DELPHI SUCKS!

BC
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 12:56 AM
  #31  
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Evilash: Any update on your ebcm ?

I did not get to take mine off. Maybe this week.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 08:11 AM
  #32  
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Same here. I hope to take it out tonight.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 09:53 AM
  #33  
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I sent mine off to autoecu.com. It has been repaired and will arrive at my home today. I'll install it after work today and take a test drive, hopefully this should do it.

I have the classic, intermittent, TCS/ABS disabled light and code c1214.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 11:47 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Zer0vette
I sent mine off to autoecu.com. It has been repaired and will arrive at my home today. I'll install it after work today and take a test drive, hopefully this should do it.

I have the classic, intermittent, TCS/ABS disabled light and code c1214.
$65 plus shipping for a rebuild one - Tjats not too bad. Maybe its better than figuring out how to fix it myself. I bet they don't remove the relay. Maybe there is a very simple fix to it (like a fuse thats blown or a connection thats broken.

I would like to know if people who got their modules repaired, actually had a different relay on them.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 11:52 AM
  #35  
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38,000 miles here. But long been broken.

Ran the car today. Nice to see the DIC state Traction Control ON!

Totally worth doing on your own.

Key steps are.

take a drill bit and cut out the goo filling the hole in the lower corner on the back. This is within its own block and goes directly to the plate. This is where you want to shove a punch or something to put pressure on the plate. When the plate gives a little have a couple of flat blade screwdrivers handy to shove in there and work around.

heat the outside edge for less than a minute to loosen up the clear silicon. Yep this thing of just filled with sink caulk.

Have a small thin knife at least as long as the relay. cut the goo from the sides and scoop it out from the top of the relay.

Desolder, pull out and replace the relay.

Clean up your sealing edges with a wire brush and glue it back up.

bolted it back in and it's been working great.

Best of luck on all of yours. Take your time and you'll be ok. Hopefully as long as there wasn't another bad component you'll be back in business.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 12:02 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Evilash
38,000 miles here. But long been broken.

Ran the car today. Nice to see the DIC state Traction Control ON!

Totally worth doing on your own.

Key steps are.

take a drill bit and cut out the goo filling the hole in the lower corner on the back. This is within its own block and goes directly to the plate. This is where you want to shove a punch or something to put pressure on the plate. When the plate gives a little have a couple of flat blade screwdrivers handy to shove in there and work around.

heat the outside edge for less than a minute to loosen up the clear silicon. Yep this thing of just filled with sink caulk.

Have a small thin knife at least as long as the relay. cut the goo from the sides and scoop it out from the top of the relay.

Desolder, pull out and replace the relay.

Clean up your sealing edges with a wire brush and glue it back up.

bolted it back in and it's been working great.

Best of luck on all of yours. Take your time and you'll be ok. Hopefully as long as there wasn't another bad component you'll be back in business.
Wow ... Congratulations !!!

Now if you had more pictures to show, it would have been great. I am guessing once I havet he unit out, I will likely figure it out, but if you took any pictures, please post them here (or send them to me and I will post them).

I will update as soon as my unit comes out (Tuesday or Wednesday).

Thanks.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 12:06 PM
  #37  
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Pics in the first page are better than the ones I took with my blackberry.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 12:13 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Evilash
Pics in the first page are better than the ones I took with my blackberry.
Well if you have pictures of the module after or during the relay removal process, that would be great. If not, I will try to figure it out and contact you in case I am stuck.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 12:27 PM
  #39  
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Sorry no detail pics like that.

One tip though. My relays legs were too long to pull the relay right out. trim the legs before removing with pliers, remember it's still stuck with goo on the back side. The new relay from digikey has shorter legs and slid right in.
It's the only white box on the edge of the board so it's fairly straightforward once it's all apart.
I didn't bother refilling with the clear stuff just incase it didn't work or needed serviced again. just some to hold the relay in place and seal the sides and the access hole in the back.
I think you'll be fine as long as you don't cut into the blue capacitor next to the relay. It is very close

Last edited by Evilash; Jun 22, 2009 at 12:30 PM.
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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Zer0vette
I sent mine off to autoecu.com. It has been repaired and will arrive at my home today. I'll install it after work today and take a test drive, hopefully this should do it.

I have the classic, intermittent, TCS/ABS disabled light and code c1214.
Installed the repaired EBCM from autoecu and we're looking good now. No TCS/ABS lights. A+ for autoecu.
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