ebcm repair
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
From: Portland/Hillsboro OR
You might want to just try and resoldering the relay to the circuit board and see if it works. Maybe just test the relay before you actually go about stripping all that silicone.
I had sent an email to the guy who fixes the EBCM unit and he told me resoldering the legs of the relay would solve my problem. Worth a try.
I had sent an email to the guy who fixes the EBCM unit and he told me resoldering the legs of the relay would solve my problem. Worth a try.
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
You might want to just try and resoldering the relay to the circuit board and see if it works. Maybe just test the relay before you actually go about stripping all that silicone.
I had sent an email to the guy who fixes the EBCM unit and he told me resoldering the legs of the relay would solve my problem. Worth a try.
I had sent an email to the guy who fixes the EBCM unit and he told me resoldering the legs of the relay would solve my problem. Worth a try.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
From: Portland/Hillsboro OR
I was telling Evilash to maybe try and see if the relay is fine and maybe resoldering it to the circuit board might just solve the issue (while he is waiting for a new relay). To take the relay apart and install a new one seems like a lot of work too. I am not sure how to remove all that resin that was poured all over the components.
A 12V supply and a voltmeter should confirm if the relay is working fine.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 552
Likes: 4
From: Mukilteo WA
I looked over the solder joints and they looked ok. I guess I should give it a shot to resolder.
I got most of the stuff out with a little knife but haven't removed the relay.
I poured the adhesive cleaner around the little gap after cutting out the black rtv.
But I also used a micro torch and ran it around the outside edge for a minute.
I'll try the resolder technic and do a test install sometime soon.
Thanks,
I got most of the stuff out with a little knife but haven't removed the relay.
I poured the adhesive cleaner around the little gap after cutting out the black rtv.
But I also used a micro torch and ran it around the outside edge for a minute.
I'll try the resolder technic and do a test install sometime soon.
Thanks,
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
From: Portland/Hillsboro OR
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The relat just fails because it a poor quality relay. DELPHI SUCKS!
BC
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: Buffalo NY
I sent mine off to autoecu.com. It has been repaired and will arrive at my home today. I'll install it after work today and take a test drive, hopefully this should do it.
I have the classic, intermittent, TCS/ABS disabled light and code c1214.
I have the classic, intermittent, TCS/ABS disabled light and code c1214.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
From: Portland/Hillsboro OR
I would like to know if people who got their modules repaired, actually had a different relay on them.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 552
Likes: 4
From: Mukilteo WA
38,000 miles here. But long been broken.
Ran the car today. Nice to see the DIC state Traction Control ON!
Totally worth doing on your own.
Key steps are.
take a drill bit and cut out the goo filling the hole in the lower corner on the back. This is within its own block and goes directly to the plate. This is where you want to shove a punch or something to put pressure on the plate. When the plate gives a little have a couple of flat blade screwdrivers handy to shove in there and work around.
heat the outside edge for less than a minute to loosen up the clear silicon. Yep this thing of just filled with sink caulk.
Have a small thin knife at least as long as the relay. cut the goo from the sides and scoop it out from the top of the relay.
Desolder, pull out and replace the relay.
Clean up your sealing edges with a wire brush and glue it back up.
bolted it back in and it's been working great.
Best of luck on all of yours. Take your time and you'll be ok. Hopefully as long as there wasn't another bad component you'll be back in business.
Ran the car today. Nice to see the DIC state Traction Control ON!
Totally worth doing on your own.
Key steps are.
take a drill bit and cut out the goo filling the hole in the lower corner on the back. This is within its own block and goes directly to the plate. This is where you want to shove a punch or something to put pressure on the plate. When the plate gives a little have a couple of flat blade screwdrivers handy to shove in there and work around.
heat the outside edge for less than a minute to loosen up the clear silicon. Yep this thing of just filled with sink caulk.
Have a small thin knife at least as long as the relay. cut the goo from the sides and scoop it out from the top of the relay.
Desolder, pull out and replace the relay.
Clean up your sealing edges with a wire brush and glue it back up.
bolted it back in and it's been working great.
Best of luck on all of yours. Take your time and you'll be ok. Hopefully as long as there wasn't another bad component you'll be back in business.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
From: Portland/Hillsboro OR
38,000 miles here. But long been broken.
Ran the car today. Nice to see the DIC state Traction Control ON!
Totally worth doing on your own.
Key steps are.
take a drill bit and cut out the goo filling the hole in the lower corner on the back. This is within its own block and goes directly to the plate. This is where you want to shove a punch or something to put pressure on the plate. When the plate gives a little have a couple of flat blade screwdrivers handy to shove in there and work around.
heat the outside edge for less than a minute to loosen up the clear silicon. Yep this thing of just filled with sink caulk.
Have a small thin knife at least as long as the relay. cut the goo from the sides and scoop it out from the top of the relay.
Desolder, pull out and replace the relay.
Clean up your sealing edges with a wire brush and glue it back up.
bolted it back in and it's been working great.
Best of luck on all of yours. Take your time and you'll be ok. Hopefully as long as there wasn't another bad component you'll be back in business.
Ran the car today. Nice to see the DIC state Traction Control ON!
Totally worth doing on your own.
Key steps are.
take a drill bit and cut out the goo filling the hole in the lower corner on the back. This is within its own block and goes directly to the plate. This is where you want to shove a punch or something to put pressure on the plate. When the plate gives a little have a couple of flat blade screwdrivers handy to shove in there and work around.
heat the outside edge for less than a minute to loosen up the clear silicon. Yep this thing of just filled with sink caulk.
Have a small thin knife at least as long as the relay. cut the goo from the sides and scoop it out from the top of the relay.
Desolder, pull out and replace the relay.
Clean up your sealing edges with a wire brush and glue it back up.
bolted it back in and it's been working great.
Best of luck on all of yours. Take your time and you'll be ok. Hopefully as long as there wasn't another bad component you'll be back in business.
Now if you had more pictures to show, it would have been great. I am guessing once I havet he unit out, I will likely figure it out, but if you took any pictures, please post them here (or send them to me and I will post them).
I will update as soon as my unit comes out (Tuesday or Wednesday).
Thanks.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
From: Portland/Hillsboro OR
Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 552
Likes: 4
From: Mukilteo WA
Sorry no detail pics like that.
One tip though. My relays legs were too long to pull the relay right out. trim the legs before removing with pliers, remember it's still stuck with goo on the back side. The new relay from digikey has shorter legs and slid right in.
It's the only white box on the edge of the board so it's fairly straightforward once it's all apart.
I didn't bother refilling with the clear stuff just incase it didn't work or needed serviced again. just some to hold the relay in place and seal the sides and the access hole in the back.
I think you'll be fine as long as you don't cut into the blue capacitor next to the relay. It is very close
One tip though. My relays legs were too long to pull the relay right out. trim the legs before removing with pliers, remember it's still stuck with goo on the back side. The new relay from digikey has shorter legs and slid right in.
It's the only white box on the edge of the board so it's fairly straightforward once it's all apart.
I didn't bother refilling with the clear stuff just incase it didn't work or needed serviced again. just some to hold the relay in place and seal the sides and the access hole in the back.
I think you'll be fine as long as you don't cut into the blue capacitor next to the relay. It is very close
Last edited by Evilash; Jun 22, 2009 at 12:30 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: Buffalo NY
Installed the repaired EBCM from autoecu and we're looking good now. No TCS/ABS lights. A+ for autoecu.