ebcm repair
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,151
Likes: 20
I replaced mine a couple years ago on my '99. I went through hell with a rebuild company that ended up being a bunch of crooks. You can search the forum and read about my experience. I ended up purchasing new. ABS fixer is the only place I'd trust for rebuild however they cannot repair pre-01 modules. Anyone know why the older ones are unrepairable? Now the new ones are crazy expensive.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 552
Likes: 4
From: Mukilteo WA
took apart and cleaned the left front ground pack. There was very little dirt and no real corrosion. Hit the male terminals with a wire brush and sprayed silicon lubricate into the female ends more to just spray out the sand since I didn't want to fire up my compressor.
Nothing.
Really thought the left pack was the issue since it is near the brake fluid sensor which had a fault.
But logic doesn't prefail.
Move to the right side front pack. It's a bit dirtier and perform the same. I figured I was onto something when it first touched the ground stud and I heard the abs pump start up.
DIC errors are gone!
If it fails again I'm going all Medieval on it and putting individual ground lugs on each ground and stacking them onto the stud with star washers.
Thanks for the help everyone.
Nothing.
Really thought the left pack was the issue since it is near the brake fluid sensor which had a fault.
But logic doesn't prefail.
Move to the right side front pack. It's a bit dirtier and perform the same. I figured I was onto something when it first touched the ground stud and I heard the abs pump start up.
DIC errors are gone!
If it fails again I'm going all Medieval on it and putting individual ground lugs on each ground and stacking them onto the stud with star washers.
Thanks for the help everyone.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 552
Likes: 4
From: Mukilteo WA
So in celebration of today's "drive your Corvette to work day" I drove in my Pacifica.
Those ground that were fine last night after I cleaned them and sprayed in some silicon spray to the female ends. The grounds that were still good when I checked again before going to bed. Well, they failed again this morning.
I took the connector apart and I put a little antiseize on the ends of the male prongs. I believe that stuff is fairly conductive or spark plugs wouldn't work so well.
Still nothing even after getting sparks when I touched the ground stud.
Time to get Medieval. I'm cutting all those crap connections and soldering on new rings.
Those ground that were fine last night after I cleaned them and sprayed in some silicon spray to the female ends. The grounds that were still good when I checked again before going to bed. Well, they failed again this morning.
I took the connector apart and I put a little antiseize on the ends of the male prongs. I believe that stuff is fairly conductive or spark plugs wouldn't work so well.
Still nothing even after getting sparks when I touched the ground stud.
Time to get Medieval. I'm cutting all those crap connections and soldering on new rings.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 552
Likes: 4
From: Mukilteo WA
Bought the lugs, got home to get medeival on it and no matter how many times I restarted the car no codes. Even disconnected the grounds and reset. No codes. Maybe the anit seize did the trick.
Or, the car got scared straight that the wire cutters were coming out.
Or, the car got scared straight that the wire cutters were coming out.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
From: Portland/Hillsboro OR
Good to know. Hope it holds up.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 552
Likes: 4
From: Mukilteo WA
Still got random failures.
I broke out the dremel with the wire brush on the end. Closely inspecting the grounding point I noticed the black frame paint covered most of the ground except in a few small spots where the star washer teeth bit through.
I ground off the paint on the base of the stud. That is some tough paint.
I then applied antiseize to the bare metal and reattached the grounds.
No failures again.
I'll see how long it lasts this time.
Considering doing a preemptive strike on all the other ground points and put in the ground wire short from the passenger footwell to the battery.
I broke out the dremel with the wire brush on the end. Closely inspecting the grounding point I noticed the black frame paint covered most of the ground except in a few small spots where the star washer teeth bit through.
I ground off the paint on the base of the stud. That is some tough paint.
I then applied antiseize to the bare metal and reattached the grounds.
No failures again.
I'll see how long it lasts this time.
Considering doing a preemptive strike on all the other ground points and put in the ground wire short from the passenger footwell to the battery.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake Va
I noticed that black paint too, and if it's that hard to remove how can it possibly be a good ground. I have been DTC free for over a week now, starting to miss the lights. Got my fingers crossed for you, good luck.
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Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 552
Likes: 4
From: Mukilteo WA
Lasted all of one day.
Had to plug in the left front speaker the bozos at the body shop forgot to plug in. No codes while I played with the stereo settings.
This morning immediately have codes.
Damn it! I think I may end up redoing the EBCM and resolder all the joints on the board.
Had to plug in the left front speaker the bozos at the body shop forgot to plug in. No codes while I played with the stereo settings.
This morning immediately have codes.
Damn it! I think I may end up redoing the EBCM and resolder all the joints on the board.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
From: Portland/Hillsboro OR
Lasted all of one day.
Had to plug in the left front speaker the bozos at the body shop forgot to plug in. No codes while I played with the stereo settings.
This morning immediately have codes.
Damn it! I think I may end up redoing the EBCM and resolder all the joints on the board.
Had to plug in the left front speaker the bozos at the body shop forgot to plug in. No codes while I played with the stereo settings.
This morning immediately have codes.
Damn it! I think I may end up redoing the EBCM and resolder all the joints on the board.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CORVE...%3A1|72%3A1171
Its 50 bucks only. I think its time to let someone else do the repair and see if they fix it.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 552
Likes: 4
From: Mukilteo WA
way ahead of ya. It was going to come out last night but it didn't cool off enough before I ran out of time.
I read up on Module Masters that is only one state over.
thanks for this link. I'll check them out also.
I read up on Module Masters that is only one state over.
thanks for this link. I'll check them out also.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CORVE...%3A1|72%3A1171
Its 50 bucks only. I think its time to let someone else do the repair and see if they fix it.
Its 50 bucks only. I think its time to let someone else do the repair and see if they fix it.
The speed doesn't need to be high to do this, maybe 40 or 50 mph and just nail the brake pedal. When the ABS activates, it's not hurting or damaging anything in the brake system, and heck even the tires don't skid. Maybe a followup with a flush and bleed. Btw, if you ever get your brake fluid flushed/replaced at a dealer, or anyone else that has a Tech II scan tool, there is a capability the tool has to command the ABS pump motors "on" during the bleed process to ensure fresh fluid is getting into the ABS system as well as the regular hydraulic portion of the brake system. It's called "Autobleed".
Just an idea worth considering.
HTH
Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 552
Likes: 4
From: Mukilteo WA
well, unit is removed and now the dic state service engine soon and the low brake fluild light.
Is this normal?
I pulled the wire set to the brake fluid sensor and I have continuity to ground on both the brown and the black wire. They also have connection to each other.
Why does this not sound right to me?
Thanks for the abs tip. But, that was all recently flushed out with synthetic.
Is this normal?
I pulled the wire set to the brake fluid sensor and I have continuity to ground on both the brown and the black wire. They also have connection to each other.
Why does this not sound right to me?
Thanks for the abs tip. But, that was all recently flushed out with synthetic.
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
hi guys ! just wanted to give big thanks to those who participated to this thread and especially to Littlest Hobo for his post on the c1214 being the relay inside the ebcm.
i did a 2001 3 weeks ago and all is working now ! let me tell you that my customer is satisfied a lots!!
hats off to this site
thanks a lot
pat
i did a 2001 3 weeks ago and all is working now ! let me tell you that my customer is satisfied a lots!!
hats off to this site
thanks a lot
pat
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake Va
Update 1214 code
Well apparently the contact cleaner didn't fix anything at all. I do think I have finally found the problem with my 1214 code though. I opened the driver's side door and exposed the wires in that accordian type boot. I unplugged the plug where it goes into the frame and cleaned it which didn't help, I was still getting the code. What did work was just wiggling that one wire coming from the plug and going down somewhere inside the frame. I don't know for sure but I'm guessing that one wire is either broken or it has a bare spot. It looks like I'm going to need to remove the kick panel on the driver's side to find out where that wire is damaged. Looks like it entails removing the hood latch release handle and anything in that area. If anybody has been inside this area I would appreciate any tips or info as to what to look out for. There is a small plastic panel with a bundle of wires going through it with no visible screws, does that just pop out?
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 34
From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Well apparently the contact cleaner didn't fix anything at all. I do think I have finally found the problem with my 1214 code though. I opened the driver's side door and exposed the wires in that accordian type boot. I unplugged the plug where it goes into the frame and cleaned it which didn't help, I was still getting the code. What did work was just wiggling that one wire coming from the plug and going down somewhere inside the frame. I don't know for sure but I'm guessing that one wire is either broken or it has a bare spot. It looks like I'm going to need to remove the kick panel on the driver's side to find out where that wire is damaged. Looks like it entails removing the hood latch release handle and anything in that area. If anybody has been inside this area I would appreciate any tips or info as to what to look out for. There is a small plastic panel with a bundle of wires going through it with no visible screws, does that just pop out?
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake Va
Hi, Eddie. Strangely enough after wiggling that wire the code cleared and I was putting it off till the weather got cooler, and also hoping maybe someone would shed some light on how that driver's side kick panel and related pieces comes off. I had been "code free" until the other day when I jacked up the front end to change my oil. Now the code is back and I need to get back to it. I'm still pretty sure there is a wire/plug loose/grounding out/or broken behind that kick panel. I'm just overly cautious since so many times I have grabbed a piece of plastic and ended up breaking it and then it's obvious how it should have been removed. 
If I ever get it really fixed (no wire wiggling) I will post an update.
If I ever get it really fixed (no wire wiggling) I will post an update.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 27
From: Magnolia Greens NC
here are some options...
New EBCM’s … below is a list of part #s. Check with Gene Culley @ GM Parts Direct or---
Fred Beans for actual price & availability ($650 to $1000)
Part Number: 10343433 All 2003-2004
Part Number: 12216561 All 2001-2002
Part Number: 9367071 All 1999-2000 w/o Control Active Brakes
An alternative to buying a new one is to have your original rebuilt.
For EBCM repair/replace
Call Brandon
877-648-7530 at ABS FIXER
or: www.absfixer.com
$150. plus UPS....warranted as long as you own it
OR…. get a REBUILT EBCM from these folks:
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Digital-.../Homepage.html
http://www.autoecu.com/?gclid=CO-ozv...FR4UagodWwilqQ
http://www.speedometerrepairguy.com/