Does any1 have the info on how to test the relay to see if it is bad prior to removing it? I have the ebcm out and the case off ready to change out the relay. Just wanted to verify that the relay is the problem.

 

From what I believe, the problem is not the relay but the solder connections that tend to break causing the relay error. If you want to try it yourself, just resolder some of the connections if they appear lose and that should fix the problem.

When you send it off to them, they DO NOT replace the relay. They just resolder all the contacts to fix the issue (that is what I think).

 

The ebcm is not in an easy position to reinstall just to find out that it still doesnt work, so I would still like to know if any1 knows which pins to check resistance in, and what the range should be.

 

Had same C1214 fault on my 2001 C5.

Removed EBCM module and gave it to neighbour who is into electronics.
He removed the 'white' relay as described by 'Littlest Hobo' noting there were bad solder joints on it. He cleaned the relay contacts inside, but when he put it on a scope, it showed up as a poor contact......in other words don't waste your time just resoldering the joints, put a new relay in as 'Littlest Hobo' says.

Tip
For removing the EBCM cover plate with the 4 securing screws and that black gasket goo.
1. remove 4 x screws
2. remove silicon from that hole on the back lower corner of the EBCM.
3. use a 2BA (or similar) 'thread tap' to cut a thread in that hole
4. screw matching thread screw/bolt into hole, (it misses pcb inside) until it touches cover plate (screw/bolt needs to be 3" long max).
5. carry on winding the screw in until it starts pushing the cover plate away enough to break that gasket seal and allow space to insert those flat blade screwdrivers and work around the remainder.

This should help reduce damage to the brittle cover plate and the pcb inside......and I don't want anyone to have a screwdriver slip and have it cause personal injury.

Thank you all again for sharing your knowledge on this fault and when I get my EBCM back it will be happy days.

 

Neighbour returned my ebcm unit today after replacing relay (the white one) on the pcb. Checked out other resistors at same time, all ok and I put it back together this afternoon. ABS light now goes out and the traction control switch is now working.

It cost me Ł20 ($32), a bottle of wine and a box of cookies.

He did say that he had to unsolder parts of the pcb first to get clearance as it was very tight for space and when re soldering it back together it required a 40 watt iron, working quickly to avoid component damage. (Glad I did'nt have a go myself).

So thanks to Littlest Hobo and everyone for your collective information, it's an excellent job done.
Regards

 

An old thread that helped me big time on my '03 Coupe throwing the 1214 code once in awhile. Decided to tackle the ECBM last week. A couple hours to get the car jacked up , stands placed and the ECBM controller out. Next morning, re soldiers the contact joints and reassembled all. Did loose one middle screw that fell somewhere in the fan area ????. Put the car back on the ground , connected the battery and fired it up. The Dash cleared as usual and all was good. Shut down the engine and reset the codes showing up. Road test of about 5 miles , no dash lights, next test of 70 miles, no lights last test of 100 miles on bumpy roads and lots of turning the steering wheel, no lights. Think it's a done deal.
Thanks to all the input in this thread, plus the others I've read. Really helps those new to corvette learn them and fix them at home.