Leaking Optima Red Top


I'd say nextime is spot on. Any battery has a case ( statement of the obvious). With misuse or heavy handling any case could split. The original Delphi manufactured AC Delco batteries had a design fault that allowed the posts to be damaged if over torqued. Thats whay many of us here went the AGM route.
The point about the AGM that most miss is that the Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) "soaks" up the battery electrolyte and prevents major leakage should damage occur. The more complex design costs $$ and its a judgement call whether you think its worth it.
An AGM battery can leak although its rare to see leaky Optimas. The Optima is a robust design but it's not tolerant to discharge. If you dont keep it topped off, either though low useage or a drain it can let you down. By contrast, anyone still using an OEM AC Delco of 97-01 vintage is sitting on a timebomb IMHO
The later designs are generally better so you can buy most replacement batteries, AGM or lead acid, and rest easy . Bottom, line to get back to the original point; I'd say any time you suffer a leak for any reason you should go back to the manufacturer and seek a replacement. Unless you dropped it, they shouldn't do that
Now all we have to do is wait a day or a week for the the NEXT thread to be started in which the question will be asked regarding Optima or Exide "gel cells" ALL OVER AGAIN.
Bottom, line to get back to the original point; I'd say any time you suffer a leak for any reason you should go back to the manufacturer and seek a replacement. Unless you dropped it, they shouldn't do that
I had a chance to look more closely at the seam area around the red top of the battery and the grey case, and I see evidence of acid on the middle front of the seam also. It definitely was not sealed 100% from the factory. It probably was leaking from day one and I never discoverd it until now ... I had no reason (so I thought) to ever have to really worry or check on leakage.
I will be calling Optima tomorrow ... will let you guys know if they give me a free replacement. They better not try to pro-rate this claim, as I'm sure it was defective from the factory and was probably leaking slightly from day one.


I had a chance to look more closely at the seam area around the red top of the battery and the grey case, and I see evidence of acid on the middle front of the seam also. It definitely was not sealed 100% from the factory. It probably was leaking from day one and I never discoverd it until now ... I had no reason (so I thought) to ever have to really worry or check on leakage.
I will be calling Optima tomorrow ... will let you guys know if they give me a free replacement. They better not try to pro-rate this claim, as I'm sure it was defective from the factory and was probably leaking slightly from day one.
Soory forgive the punI'm sure Optima will step up and replace it.


The odds are good that Vegas money would win big on this one!



There's at least one

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dave
I took a few photos showing that it's leaking between the case and top cover. The grey bottom case is all one piece, so the only seal is basically the top of the battery to the case.
As you can see, it's leaking from two of the 3 front cells. IMO, it's definitely a manufacturing defect. The factory will pressurize the case slightly to see if it leaks ... I already know the answer.
So ... anyone with an Optima, better double check this seam area periodically to see if there is any acid residue. In my case, I beleve it was defective the day it was made. If you have had you Optima for a while, and don't see any residue then I'd say you're not going to have a leaker.
Leaking from the two front cells on the side post side of the battery.

Close up of center front cell.

Close up of front cell next to negative side post.

Close up of plastic flashing that doesn't look normal. Could be causing bad sealing on top perimeter of case.

I think they want it back for engineering analysis more than anything. Why would they spend the money to ship a special container to the store and then ship it back to Johnson Controls for analysis? It would be cheaper to just give me a new battery and call it good IMO. If I want to get my car going again, I'd have to buy a new battery and then they would reimburse me if they found it to be a manufacturing defect ... which IMO it clearly is.
The seal job between the case is defective ... I'd bet on it. Did you notice that in the places it's leaking that there are "red globs" of plastic showing? ... probably a bad melt job done there.
Last edited by ZeeOSix; Mar 6, 2009 at 04:14 PM.

the top and lower case sections, caused by the irregular plastic surfaces.
I would have thought that your photos alone would be sufficient to show their manufacturing defect, and warrant a free replacement for
the battery.
Didn't want to but it was dead!
Only had it 2 years. Have been using a CTEK battery tender with it on my car since I got the battery. But even with an Optima setting on the CTEK it still DOA'ed!
Sears sold me the battery. 3yr. Full Replacement + 3yr. pro-rated warranty. But Sears doesn't sell the Optima anymore-- "too many problems with them". So their 'replacement' is the Sears DieHard Platinum (4yr. Full Replacement) Gel battery.
Sears tried to charge me money for "the difference" --until I said "get back Jack!
3 yr. Full Replacement means NO money out of my pocket!". To which he said. "oh yeah, right!".Bitch is heavy. Weighed it on the scales: 48.5 lbs!!!

Side Posts for the Positive are further outboard, making it difficult to get the connector screwed in because of the double cables not wanting to bend. Takes some work jacking the cables around to get it to fit.
Let's see how long this one lasts. Got an extra year of warranty out of it though!


Didn't want to but it was dead!
Only had it 2 years. Have been using a CTEK battery tender with it on my car since I got the battery. But even with an Optima setting on the CTEK it still DOA'ed!
Sears sold me the battery. 3yr. Full Replacement + 3yr. pro-rated warranty. But Sears doesn't sell the Optima anymore-- "too many problems with them". So their 'replacement' is the Sears DieHard Platinum (4yr. Full Replacement) Gel battery.
Sears tried to charge me money for "the difference" --until I said "get back Jack!
3 yr. Full Replacement means NO money out of my pocket!". To which he said. "oh yeah, right!".Bitch is heavy. Weighed it on the scales: 48.5 lbs!!!

Side Posts for the Positive are further outboard, making it difficult to get the connector screwed in because of the double cables not wanting to bend. Takes some work jacking the cables around to get it to fit.
Let's see how long this one lasts. Got an extra year of warranty out of it though!


clue: they're not
Didn't want to but it was dead!
Only had it 2 years. Have been using a CTEK battery tender with it on my car since I got the battery. But even with an Optima setting on the CTEK it still DOA'ed!
Sears sold me the battery. 3yr. Full Replacement + 3yr. pro-rated warranty. But Sears doesn't sell the Optima anymore-- "too many problems with them". So their 'replacement' is the Sears DieHard Platinum (4yr. Full Replacement) Gel battery.
Sears tried to charge me money for "the difference" --until I said "get back Jack!
3 yr. Full Replacement means NO money out of my pocket!". To which he said. "oh yeah, right!".Bitch is heavy. Weighed it on the scales: 48.5 lbs!!!

Side Posts for the Positive are further outboard, making it difficult to get the connector screwed in because of the double cables not wanting to bend. Takes some work jacking the cables around to get it to fit.
Let's see how long this one lasts. Got an extra year of warranty out of it though!


It's way too heavy.The Die Hard Platinum battery is more suitable for the cold cranking power demands of a diesel engine truck on a 0 degree morning.









