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Crank Pulley?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: San Jose
Crank Pulley?
Hey i got the rack off but i dont know why ppl said to take off radiator and fans.....it looks like if i remove only the rack, i can take out he pulley. Is there anything i should know about pulling out the pulley and putting on the new one. Do i just pull it out with the puller and slap on the new one and torque it on????? Or do i have to do it some other way?????Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
If only changing the pulley, the radiator can stay in place.
You should be following the GM procedure on this, if you are following LS1howto.com be prepared for major issues including damage to the crank threads. The removal can be done with a three jaw puller, but don't use a bolt in the center to push on. Use a socket or round stock and push on the end face of the crank. Using the bolt can damage the threads. You need to buy or may an installation tool. Don't use a bolt or you can damage the threads. The tool I made is below, cost less then $20. Use this to press the new pulley into place. Then remove and install the old bolt and torque to 240 lb-ft. Then remove old bolt and measure crank depth which should be between 0.094"-0.176" for the stock pulley (aftermarket will be different). Next, install new bolt and torque to 37 lb-ft. Once you have reached 37 lb-ft, remove torque wrench and use breaker bar and angle gauge to rotate the bolt 140 degrees.
You should be following the GM procedure on this, if you are following LS1howto.com be prepared for major issues including damage to the crank threads. The removal can be done with a three jaw puller, but don't use a bolt in the center to push on. Use a socket or round stock and push on the end face of the crank. Using the bolt can damage the threads. You need to buy or may an installation tool. Don't use a bolt or you can damage the threads. The tool I made is below, cost less then $20. Use this to press the new pulley into place. Then remove and install the old bolt and torque to 240 lb-ft. Then remove old bolt and measure crank depth which should be between 0.094"-0.176" for the stock pulley (aftermarket will be different). Next, install new bolt and torque to 37 lb-ft. Once you have reached 37 lb-ft, remove torque wrench and use breaker bar and angle gauge to rotate the bolt 140 degrees.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Vettenuts forgot to include the picture. 
I copied his tool design but I used an old damper bolt and some SAE all thread and welded them together. Heres the finished product:
Your going to need to find a way to hold the crank from turning. This is what I used and it worked fantastic:
I copied his tool design but I used an old damper bolt and some SAE all thread and welded them together. Heres the finished product:Your going to need to find a way to hold the crank from turning. This is what I used and it worked fantastic:
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 9
From: Dublin GA
I installed on on my car when I installed the cam, but I would never go to the trouble of installing one unless I had an issue with the factory balance; Just not enough evidence to prove they do anything
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 2
From: Houston TEXAS
Thanks BT. I heard they were a real PITA to install.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
My OEM damper sealing surface went bad.
It was a good opportunity to up-grade. I installed my power bond damper with a Heads,Cam, FAST 90/90mm install so, I can not comment on the damper performance improvement. The damper works phenomenally
It was a good opportunity to up-grade. I installed my power bond damper with a Heads,Cam, FAST 90/90mm install so, I can not comment on the damper performance improvement. The damper works phenomenally
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Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
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From: Howell Michigan
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: San Jose
Hey how do i take out the rack? I unbolted it from every thing but it cant come out the driver side and if push the other way the rod part hits the crank. And i cant flip it towards the radiator because the ps pump is in the way.....I there a trick to get it out????
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
On some cars, it fits out the drivers side without an issue. Some cars, you have to loosen up the bolts that hold on the K member. Are you SURE that it wont pop out the drivers side?
Its tight but it can come out. I pop mine out part way and then slide the passengers end towards the fans. You can see it in this picture:
Its tight but it can come out. I pop mine out part way and then slide the passengers end towards the fans. You can see it in this picture:
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 9
From: Dublin GA
Check out this link as to why you might want to change to underdrive pulley. 
I stand by my original statement, for me PERSONALLY I wouldn't pull my rack out and deal with pulling and reinstalling the balancer for anything less than 20+ rwhp unless my stock pulley was damaged
4th Gear
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Crankbolt removale
The book told me I had to but a 100 dollar tool to hold the flywheel so I could break crankbolt free but I built my own tool to hold flywheel.Advise I got at that time was to use vise grips to hold flywheel but I was scared of hurting something by doing that.You basiclly have to buy the tool or find a why to lock the engine.
