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Bill,
When I did my cam I just slid it to the passenger side of the car. I have a new AR bolt coming. I was just wondering if you could lift the rack high enough to get the bolt out and the new one in. I have a Torque wrench that goes that high.
Thanks
BRIT
Try the bolt replacement in the least complicated and least involved steps first. There are some good tips here. Never thought of lowering the K member!! Just unbolt the rack mounts and pic up on it. The wheels will point INWARD but that wont hurt anything. Just point them back straight before you reconnect the steering shaft.
Just for the record, the stock bolt can be reused. I've been building LSX engines for 10+ yrs, and based off that experience (opposed to just reading the internet) I've found that they can in fact be reused in a pinch. I've never done it on a customers car, but reused them on my own using loctite and leaving them put at the 250 ft lbs TQ setting.
Now, I wouldn't recommend using an impact gun such as Mr. Whistler suggested, but it can be done.
GM recommends replacing the stock bolt and not re-using it. Do not be a self proclaimed expert and say that GM is wrong. You are not the one that has to fix the car when re-uisng the old bolt goes wrong. It may only happen once every 1000 times but the person who read your "expert" advice and followed it is the one that just got screwed by it, not you.
Peter
Last edited by lionelhutz; Jul 29, 2010 at 01:22 AM.
Just for the record, the stock bolt can be reused. I've been building LSX engines for 10+ yrs, and based off that experience (opposed to just reading the internet) I've found that they can in fact be reused in a pinch. I've never done it on a customers car, but reused them on my own using loctite and leaving them put at the 250 ft lbs TQ setting.
Now, I wouldn't recommend using an impact gun such as Mr. Whistler suggested, but it can be done.
Just for the real record...GM has build thousands of these engines. they recommend you swap the stock bolt. i'm not saying it won't work in a pinch..of course it will but for how long? do you want to find out? over 14 bucks? Just run your old bolt for awhile then...but don't recommend to this guy to leave it in there over torqued with lock tite? WTF man?
GM recommends replacing the stock bolt and not re-using it. Do not be a self proclaimed expert and say that GM is wrong. You are not the one that has to fix the car when re-uisng the old bolt goes wrong. It may only happen once every 1000 times but the person who read your "expert" advice and followed it is the one that just got screwed by it, not you.
Peter
Its sort of like the expert advice on LS1howto.com that has resulted in numerous damaged crank threads
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Interesting thread on how to save a $14 bolt with a high risk if damaging or distroying thousands of dollars of other parts, like a crankshaft. I guess this makes cents to some folks. I'm not so much into saving a $14 bolt, but hey, your car, you need to do what you feel is right....I guess.
I would check with them about the correct torque spec. At one time it was 240lb's and thats what alot of people use but I think ARP has since lowered it to 190.
Good luck. Personally, I would try lowering the cradle first unless You think just undoing the 2 rack mounting bolts and lifting the rack will get you enough clearance. I've been into mine but it was leaking and needed to be replaced so I didn't really look at how much clearance there was with it partly removed.
My girlfriend's ex-boyfriend is the assistant manager at Tuffy Auto Center, and he showed us how to find out the torques. If it's rated at 500 ft-lbs, and the dial does from 1-10, then each notch is 50 more ft-lbs.
So for spark plugs you just use the 3/8 impact, and dial it down to 2.
And for the balancer bolt, you use the 1/2 drive impact and put it on 5. You can either use red loctite on the threads or just tack weld the balancer on if the bolt breaks off once you get it tight.