My question is can the bolt be replaced without removing the steering rack from the car. Can the rack be lifted enough to remove old bolt an intall new one. I have done a cam on my car so I know how to remove the rack for that process. My bolt loosened for some reason that is why I'm replacing with an AP one. Thanks in advance.

 

IN your case, I'd back out the bolt as far as you can, coat it with thread lock, and tighten it back down. Observe it often for a while to make sure it's holding, and don't bother changing it out yet.

 

Ive done a cam swap and I have never completely removed my rack. You have to disconnect it and slide it part way out. Then you can slide it towards the front and remove the balancer and bolt.

REMEMBER! The OEM bolt is a ONE TIME USE torque to yield bolt. If it came loose,,,I would replace it. The ARP bolt is reuseable and gets torqued to 240 FT/LBS. I rented the 0-250 torque wrench from Autozone.

 

Bill,
When I did my cam I just slid it to the passenger side of the car. I have a new AR bolt coming. I was just wondering if you could lift the rack high enough to get the bolt out and the new one in. I have a Torque wrench that goes that high.
Thanks

 

I thought about that because of the pain it is to replace it. I drive it daily and have already torn up two belts and a hood liner so I'm leaning towards replacement. Might give it a try though and keep an eye on it. Thanks. Laurence

 

Go to the Magnusen web site. They have installation instructions for the supercharger, the first part of which is removing the bolt and pinning the crank. They do this by dropping the cradle slightly to sneak it out. That "might" be a better approach in your case. I don't think they touch the rack itself.

 

DO NOT RETIGHTEN the stock bolt unless you want to remove the broken piece out of the crankshaft!
It is a torque to yield bolt that means it is tightened until it begins to streach.

 

OP is replacing with an ARP bolt.

 

I'll give it a look. Thanks.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by zeevette
IN your case, I'd back out the bolt as far as you can, coat it with thread lock, and tighten it back down. Observe it often for a while to make sure it's holding, and don't bother changing it out yet.

I thought about that because of the pain it is to replace it. I drive it daily and have already torn up two belts and a hood liner so I'm leaning towards replacement. Might give it a try though and keep an eye on it. Thanks. Laurence

Already warned...

 

I have a bolt coming. I only thought for a moment to try and retighten but my mechanical side came out. Too many years as a Jet Mech.

 

 

LOLOLOL

For 20 bucks or whatever, I think I paid full retail for the bolt and it was less than 20 bucks...the peace of mind. Think about what the thing is holding on..ever held a dampner in your hand? They aren't light..

You're advising the OP to take the bolt to twice it's rated capacity with an impact wrench? and how ever many more I can come up with..

The arp bolt is the way to go if you're going to reuse. I'm not even going to get into the stress you put on your threads by over tightening. Do some research before you give someone advice. This isn't a hobby shop

 

And just how will that bolt come back out with red Lock-Tite on it?

It's worth doing it right it you're going to do it. And I would agree that the bolt is torque to yield, typical of most torque to yield is the instructions to tighten so far then turn so many degrees. It ~probably~ won't not break but why take that chance?

Now, the brake caliper bracket bolts are an example of bolts GM recomends to change so the thread compound is new on them.

Peter

 

You statement only addresses part of the reasoning for a new fastener. You will not achieve the desired clamping force reusing a previously torque-to-yield fastener using the installation procedure in the service manual. How many additional degrees of bolt rotation do you recommend to achieve the desired stretch and clamping force?

 

Thanks for all the inputs. I'm going to relace the bolt with a new ARP bolt. I'm not looking forward to removing the rack but I have done it before and it's not that hard. Must be getting soft in my old age. Hope to have the back on the road this weekend. Thanks again for all the inputs.
Laurence

 

The ARP should cure your loose bolt problem.....

I would check with them about the correct torque spec. At one time it was 240lb's and thats what alot of people use but I think ARP has since lowered it to 190.

I would double check with them to be sure.

 

Self proclaimed expert? Condescending expert?

If you're a pro then you're a perfect example of why everyone should fix their own vehicles instead of trusting the shop.

It's plain stupidity to chance screwing up any chance of successfully taking the engine apart again by red lock-titing that bolt into the crank. When the next person who tries to work on it breaks the bolt off down inside the snout of the crank then the owner pays for a full tear-down and possibly a new crank or has to replace the engine with another one.

Peter

 

Okay, the impact wrench isn't designed to torque anything as far as I know. It's designed for quick removal of larger fasteners. half inch drive even 3/8's...I'd recommend never using these for tightening anything other than snugging down your lug nuts(before torquing still)

Impacts can be used to tighten stuff down but it's more for heavy equipment/farm vehicles(slow moving)

and on those "shows"/articles...they skip about half the steps on each job they do. Reading is great man and that's how I've learned a lot too, but don't give advice out based on what some article says. When it comes to individual balancers/engines/bolts...

They are VERY different. You may have seen Joe Elmore running a balancer bolt on to an old school SBC w/ an ARP bolt or something?

This has NOTHING to do with an LS1, very different engine as far as design/torque yields/strength.


I've literally NEVER used an impact for any job on these cars other than removing lug nuts.

I still have to do the TT bushings and I'll prolly bust the bushings off of the tube itself using an impact but I still won't use it to tighten..it may be fine but why risk it? It's very easy to just tighten a freaking bolt...if you have enough room to get an impact in there...just use the impact to remove the bolt. nothing else

 

His IMPACT WRENCH is calibrated and can be dialed in to a specific Tq!

REMEMBER,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, He watches ALL the epsodes of HP TV.
and reads at least five magazines a month, as well as all the internet writeups.

AND he STILL gives out bum dope!