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How do I lock the engine

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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 03:50 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by dougbfresh
I've read people taking 1 plug out and putting a rope in the cylinder to lock it up-never tried it.
where did you read that?
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by printmanjackson
where did you read that?
I forget where I read it but I Googled it and many people seem to have used it. I never have used it but it seems plausable.

Here's a guy that did it:
http://www.british-cars.net/mgb-tech...2237149280.htm
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 05:01 PM
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I've done this on a PWC engine. Problem was, we stuck it in the exhaust opening & the piston wedged past the rope a tad. Had hell getting the motor turned the other way to release the rope.
Definitely use the spark plug hole if you do this method.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 09:07 PM
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Heres the strap wrench and install tool:



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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 11:56 PM
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I'll be taking it out tomorrow. Thanks for all these advise. Hope this help others as well. I'll let you now how it goes.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Wiked99
I'll be taking it out tomorrow. Thanks for all these advise. Hope this help others as well. I'll let you now how it goes.
You may be able to use the listed methods to remove it. Using the drive train to hold the engine while loosening and especially re-installing the bolt can damage your torque tube couplers (rubber).
I would find a method to lock the flywheel, I made a locking tool for mine, it made the removal and installation easy.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ipuig
You may be able to use the listed methods to remove it. Using the drive train to hold the engine while loosening and especially re-installing the bolt can damage your torque tube couplers (rubber).
I would find a method to lock the flywheel, I made a locking tool for mine, it made the removal and installation easy.
I agree that ipuig's and Bill Curlee's methods are best, but
it seems unlikely that 240 lbs/ft torque (ARP?) at the crank will damage your couplers. If so, we should never use more than ~ 1/2 throttle while driving???
I did the 6th gear method... all is well.
Lots of good advice for the OP on this thread.
Have a good project.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 09:53 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by ipuig
You may be able to use the listed methods to remove it. Using the drive train to hold the engine while loosening and especially re-installing the bolt can damage your torque tube couplers (rubber).
I would find a method to lock the flywheel, I made a locking tool for mine, it made the removal and installation easy.
how can 240ft lbs of torque damage the torque tube couplers?
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by printmanjackson
how can 240ft lbs of torque damage the torque tube couplers?
Ask the individuals who designed the drive line and decided to incorporate the use of a locking tool into the removal and installation procedure.
The couplers are not rigid, they spring. You will not get an accurate torque measurement using the drive line to hold the engine when installing the bolt.

it seems unlikely that 240 lbs/ft torque (ARP?) at the crank will damage your couplers. If so, we should never use more than ~ 1/2 throttle while driving???
You are comparing apples to oranges.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 09:06 PM
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I'm going to start taking the bolt in about an hour. I'm going to use a tool that has a visegrip with a bicycle type chain that grips the balancer.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 09:34 PM
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I was able to use 4th I think and the ebrake to hold it. I had to use a breaker bar and a piece of pipe to break the bolt loose. I don't see how you will hold those Vice Grips but maybe you can get them up against the cross member or engine to hold.

Peter
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06
There's a reason he said to put it in 6th and not 1st.

1st gear multiplies the torque to the wheels making it easy for the engine to turn the wheels.

6th gear it's pretty much impossible to turn the engine by hand.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 09:57 PM
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Now we all know why 6th gear....thanks
I'm holding the visegrip tool against the cross member.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Heres the strap wrench and install tool:




that looks very similar to my install tool, except I used hardened all thread
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 04:47 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ipuig
Ask the individuals who designed the drive line and decided to incorporate the use of a locking tool into the removal and installation procedure.
The couplers are not rigid, they spring. You will not get an accurate torque measurement using the drive line to hold the engine when installing the bolt.



You are comparing apples to oranges.
That's an interesting concept.
If torque... (240 lbs/ft?) is applied by a wrench at the nose of the crank, as opposed to some ol' con rods and pistons nudgin things along, the rear crank hub can only be left to wonder:
"Geez(!), am I feeling 'apples' torque... or am I feeling 'oranges' torque? I better let the guys further down the drivetrain know whats up, cause one of these flavours could be real bad!"
Can the hub save the day?
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 09:59 AM
  #36  
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^ he's got a point
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by motorvation2go
That's an interesting concept.
If torque... (240 lbs/ft?) is applied by a wrench at the nose of the crank, as opposed to some ol' con rods and pistons nudgin things along, the rear crank hub can only be left to wonder:
"Geez(!), am I feeling 'apples' torque... or am I feeling 'oranges' torque? I better let the guys further down the drivetrain know whats up, cause one of these flavours could be real bad!"
Can the hub save the day?
Perhaps you should try learning about the difference in static vs. dynamic torque and its effect on the drive line before you make such an ignorant comment.
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 03:21 PM
  #38  
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So I got my baby back last night at around 1am
I used the visegrip with chian tool I discribed above to removed the bolt with a four foot long cheater bar after heating it up with MAP gas and the bolt came right off. The balancer outer wheel came off and I was able to get a puller on the it to remove. To install it I did the 6th gear trick and it worked greate.
Thanks you all for these great recomendation. Saved about $1000 in labor. Now I'm going to take the top down and enjoy a beautifull california day
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Wiked99
So I got my baby back last night at around 1am
I used the visegrip with chian tool I discribed above to removed the bolt with a four foot long cheater bar after heating it up with MAP gas and the bolt came right off. The balancer outer wheel came off and I was able to get a puller on the it to remove. To install it I did the 6th gear trick and it worked greate.
Thanks you all for these great recomendation. Saved about $1000 in labor. Now I'm going to take the top down and enjoy a beautifull california day
Good stuff! It's always nice to hear how someone's honest efforts have paid off. Hope your day crusing in the Vette is a good one.
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ipuig
Perhaps you should try learning about the difference in static vs. dynamic torque and its effect on the drive line before you make such an ignorant comment.
I'm surprised that you're still able to transmit. Frigg, my wireless modem 'lays down' at the slightest hint of obstruction.
Your computer hardwired? It's gotta be. How many feet of cable down to where you're digging in the hole now?
Interesting that you should make mention of dynamic force.
It would seem that you're now inadvertantly pleading my case.
Do you suppose that maybe, just maybe(?), a flywheel, plus the mass of rotating internal engine components, all spinning at 6000+ RPM might impact a driveline just a tiny, 'eensy weensy' bit harder than some poor bugger yanking 240 lbs/ft with a torque wrench?
I am really happy to hear that the OP made out so well!
Out of respect for his thread, there is no plausible need for me to provide further comment.
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