How do I lock the engine
Here's a guy that did it:
http://www.british-cars.net/mgb-tech...2237149280.htm
Definitely use the spark plug hole if you do this method.
I would find a method to lock the flywheel, I made a locking tool for mine, it made the removal and installation easy.
I would find a method to lock the flywheel, I made a locking tool for mine, it made the removal and installation easy.
it seems unlikely that 240 lbs/ft torque (ARP?) at the crank will damage your couplers. If so, we should never use more than ~ 1/2 throttle while driving???
I did the 6th gear method... all is well.
Lots of good advice for the OP on this thread.
Have a good project.
I would find a method to lock the flywheel, I made a locking tool for mine, it made the removal and installation easy.
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The couplers are not rigid, they spring. You will not get an accurate torque measurement using the drive line to hold the engine when installing the bolt.
Peter





The couplers are not rigid, they spring. You will not get an accurate torque measurement using the drive line to hold the engine when installing the bolt.
You are comparing apples to oranges.
If torque... (240 lbs/ft?) is applied by a wrench at the nose of the crank, as opposed to some ol' con rods and pistons nudgin things along, the rear crank hub can only be left to wonder:
"Geez(!), am I feeling 'apples' torque... or am I feeling 'oranges' torque? I better let the guys further down the drivetrain know whats up, cause one of these flavours could be real bad!"
Can the hub save the day?
If torque... (240 lbs/ft?) is applied by a wrench at the nose of the crank, as opposed to some ol' con rods and pistons nudgin things along, the rear crank hub can only be left to wonder:
"Geez(!), am I feeling 'apples' torque... or am I feeling 'oranges' torque? I better let the guys further down the drivetrain know whats up, cause one of these flavours could be real bad!"
Can the hub save the day?
I used the visegrip with chian tool I discribed above to removed the bolt with a four foot long cheater bar after heating it up with MAP gas and the bolt came right off. The balancer outer wheel came off and I was able to get a puller on the it to remove. To install it I did the 6th gear trick and it worked greate.
Thanks you all for these great recomendation. Saved about $1000 in labor. Now I'm going to take the top down and enjoy a beautifull california day
I used the visegrip with chian tool I discribed above to removed the bolt with a four foot long cheater bar after heating it up with MAP gas and the bolt came right off. The balancer outer wheel came off and I was able to get a puller on the it to remove. To install it I did the 6th gear trick and it worked greate.
Thanks you all for these great recomendation. Saved about $1000 in labor. Now I'm going to take the top down and enjoy a beautifull california day
Your computer hardwired? It's gotta be. How many feet of cable down to where you're digging in the hole now?
Interesting that you should make mention of dynamic force.
It would seem that you're now inadvertantly pleading my case.
Do you suppose that maybe, just maybe(?), a flywheel, plus the mass of rotating internal engine components, all spinning at 6000+ RPM might impact a driveline just a tiny, 'eensy weensy' bit harder than some poor bugger yanking 240 lbs/ft with a torque wrench?
I am really happy to hear that the OP made out so well!
Out of respect for his thread, there is no plausible need for me to provide further comment.


















