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I’ve been reading through several Treats that talk about how to get to the harmonic balancer bolt by removing or not the rack etc….No one is asking how you lock the engine so that I can loosen the bolt. I’ve tried putting the car in gear and step on the brake but I’m afraid to damage the engine since I can’t get it to stop spinning. My car is my daily driver and she’s been down for 4 days. Getting this balancer out is what’s holding me back from driving the SUV.
I tried that in 1st gear and I could not get the cranck to stop turning. Since My last Thread I got a chain vise-grip and I can get it stoped now. My problem is that it is pretty tight. Are the threads backwards on this screw (reverse screw)?
I tried that in 1st gear and I could not get the cranck to stop turning. Since My last Thread I got a chain vise-grip and I can get it stoped now. My problem is that it is pretty tight. Are the threads backwards on this screw (reverse screw)?
No, it is not. You should consult the service manual.
I tried that in 1st gear and I could not get the cranck to stop turning. Since My last Thread I got a chain vise-grip and I can get it stoped now. My problem is that it is pretty tight. Are the threads backwards on this screw (reverse screw)?
There's a reason he said to put it in 6th and not 1st.
I tried taking mine off with a breaker bar and cheater pipe at first and it wouldn't budge. I then hit it with my 1/2" craftsman impact... nothing. Long story short, I called up my dad to bring over his service truck for 18 wheelers and a 3/4" ingersol impact and 175 psi took it off like nothing.
And that's not even the hard part... wait till you try to put it back on. I ended up modifying a balancer installation tool and pulled it up till i could get the old bolt started in the threads.
GOOD LUCK!
Be very careful to follow the manual when reinstalling the balancer. I learned the hard way when mine came loose at the end of a 12 second pass. Torque alone is not the answer. It is the sequence of installation torques and degrees. Use a new bolt or better yet use an ARP bolt. I am pinning mine to prevent further problems.
I used a LARGE strap wrench. Using the strap wrench and a large breaker bar, I did the entire job my self.
You also need to consider REINSTALLATION. You need to get the balancer install tool OR make on like I did. I used VETTENUTS design. WORKED LIKE A CHAMP!
Heat is your friend. Use a heat gun or propane torch to heat the head of the bolt for removal. Then use the same heat to heat the damper HUB to about 200-230 degrees. It will slide off and slide on with the puller MUCH easier.
I will add the pictures later tonight.
I also installed a power bond damper and used an ARP Bolt Installation using the ARP Bolt is simpler.
Hmmmmm......just some suggestions....change the oil seal on the timing chain cover if you are taking off the balancer (if you dont when it does leak you will be doing all this work over again) and pin the crank
I've read people taking 1 plug out and putting a rope in the cylinder to lock it up-never tried it.
A rope works in place of compressed air for changing valve springs, but I wouldn't risk doing it to hold an engine from turning over. If the rope should pile in the middle of the piston you stand the risk of point loading it, worse case you could end up with a nice hole in the piston. JMHO