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1998-2000 ABS/EBCM Failure; Possible Sollution!

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Old May 11, 2012 | 01:44 PM
  #121  
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might possibly have a solution in the works...
should know by this weekend, I'll post up my results
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Old May 11, 2012 | 07:07 PM
  #122  
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don't get too excited I just phone Digi Key and no one has the relays any longer, anyways I will be cutting open the aluminum housing on believe it or not a good working unit will post up pics later
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Old May 11, 2012 | 07:19 PM
  #123  
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watch everybody cringe in horror as I cut apart a working unit

Last edited by 2fas2c; May 12, 2012 at 12:04 PM.
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Old May 15, 2012 | 07:53 PM
  #124  
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sorry guys still trying to find time to do this, will give it a try tonight and post ups some pics.
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Old May 15, 2012 | 10:56 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by 2fas2c
don't get too excited I just phone Digi Key and no one has the relays any longer, anyways I will be cutting open the aluminum housing on believe it or not a good working unit will post up pics later
I already did this:

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Ron
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Old May 16, 2012 | 11:14 AM
  #126  
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good job Ron! how did you get the PCB out of the housing? did you cut the housing open?
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Old May 16, 2012 | 11:54 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by 2fas2c
good job Ron! how did you get the PCB out of the housing? did you cut the housing open?
Hey thanks,

Remove the 2 screws for the board, then unsolder the connectors from the board top and bottom. Takes a combo of a solder sucker and solder wick. And at least a 35w iron with a spade tip. It is a bit tricky due to the tight spacing on the bottom connector. Once the solder is gone, you have to use needle nose pliers to wiggle each lead and break any small amount of solder remaining between the pin and the board. Sometimes you have to resolder a pin, then remove the solder again.

No hacking and cutting!

Ron
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Old May 16, 2012 | 07:55 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
Hey thanks,

Remove the 2 screws for the board, then unsolder the connectors from the board top and bottom. Takes a combo of a solder sucker and solder wick. And at least a 35w iron with a spade tip. It is a bit tricky due to the tight spacing on the bottom connector. Once the solder is gone, you have to use needle nose pliers to wiggle each lead and break any small amount of solder remaining between the pin and the board. Sometimes you have to resolder a pin, then remove the solder again.

No hacking and cutting!

Ron
isn't the PCB submerged in silicone? does the silicone not stick to the sides of the housing? or did it just pop out like jello out of a mold?
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Old May 16, 2012 | 08:07 PM
  #129  
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The lower microprocessor is covered with the Gel Conformal Coating. The PCB is not and can be removed.

Bill
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Old May 16, 2012 | 08:52 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
The lower microprocessor is covered with the Gel Conformal Coating. The PCB is not and can be removed.

Bill
thanks Bill
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Old May 16, 2012 | 10:12 PM
  #131  
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It's about 1/4" thick, or deep I guess.
Very strange stuff. It is VERY pliable. And it will stick to your finger if you touch it and pull up, then snap back.

Perfectly clear as well.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 12:10 AM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
It's about 1/4" thick, or deep I guess.
Very strange stuff. It is VERY pliable. And it will stick to your finger if you touch it and pull up, then snap back.

Perfectly clear as well.
very interesting, man that pic you posted is probably the only image of that side of the board on the net.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 01:52 PM
  #133  
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I probably won't do much with my 2000 until this winter in Ohio.......but I called GM and they referred me to Corvette Speciality is Riverside CA. Talked to them, they said they may be able to repair the unit, maybe not. Quoted $795 or $895 mentioned folks are getting up to $2,400 from a junk yard. Got to exercise my pump first before I pull the unit. Mine worked for a while with agressive driving then quit working so I hope it's a lack of use vrs. an electrical issue.

BTW I spun the back wheels and even drove in fresh snow this pass winter to get the anti lock to kick in w/o any success.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 03:32 PM
  #134  
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I'd be REAL surprised if these guys can do anymore than just re-soldering the joints, which in most cases is not going to fix it. I do have 2 of these units w/ active handling, used, that I will be posting up in the for sale section later today.
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Old Jun 29, 2012 | 11:49 AM
  #135  
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Stupid question but has anyone tried baking their ecbm in the oven?

I've done this with alot of bad video cards for computers and suprisingly alot of them started working after this.

I wouldnt mind trying that if my ECBM was bad and had no option around it.
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 11:04 AM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by 2fas2c
I'd be REAL surprised if these guys can do anymore than just re-soldering the joints, which in most cases is not going to fix it. I do have 2 of these units w/ active handling, used, that I will be posting up in the for sale section later today.
never saw these posted. do you still have them?
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 01:48 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by jpranchranger
never saw these posted. do you still have them?
sorry, I'm afraid I've already sold them. If I come across any more of them I will let you know.
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To 1998-2000 ABS/EBCM Failure; Possible Sollution!

Old Jul 1, 2012 | 12:10 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by Nowayman
I called BBA Remanufacturing on May 10, 2011. Mike at BBA Remanufacturing told me that they could repair my 2000 Electronic Brake Control Module w/Active Handling in 1-2 days for $225 plus shipping, with lifetime guarantee.

Since I've seen prices to rebuild these modules in the $500 to $900 range, I inquired what service I was paying for in the $225 price. Mike's response was, "what are you worrying about?...it has a lifetime guarantee." My response was, "Uhhh...because I should have a right to know what you are doing in case the scope of the "repair" is not to my satisfaction...because the EBCM is a vital safety component and its proper function can determine the life or death of my passenger." I thought to myself that I won't be making a claim on BBA's lifetime warranty if I'm dead. Mike replied, "Asking us to divulge what we do to repair your module is like calling KFC and asking for the secret recipe." I laughed and argued fruitlessly. I was shocked at Mike's shady response. A couple weeks later, after having my EBCM removed at the Corvette Shop in San Diego, I reluctantly shipped my EBCM to BBA against my better judgement. I waited ten calendar days and received no call. I called them on Tuesday, May 31. They informed me that they "couldn't fix my unit." I asked if my unit was OK or they were simply unable to identify the cause. They said that they saw the error codes, but couldn't determine which component was causing the communication failure.

I arranged to pay for return shipment. Today I'm still waiting to receive my part back.

I suggest you not waste your time with BBA Remanufacturing in Taunton, MA.

Next, I'm going to try "ATE" (Auto & Truck Electronics; 866 983 6688www.autoecu.com), also known as "ASI" on Ebay. THey claim that they charge $495 and that includes replacing all components on the green circuit board. If I achieve success, I'll repost.
did ATE or ASI fix it?
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 12:11 AM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by 2fas2c
sorry, I'm afraid I've already sold them. If I come across any more of them I will let you know.
I am a buyer for a good used one. please do keep me in mind.
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 12:45 AM
  #140  
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I can't believe nobody has come up with a reliable solution to this problem. Why can't we retrofit a 2001+ EBCM?
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