Another CF member lost his clutch because of low fluid.

Went with him to take a look and we found a pin hole leak in his remote bleeder about 4" from the bleeder fitting.

Anyone ever try to cut and reinstall a new fitting on a remote bleeder? Fairly high pressure line but might be worth a try.

It'd be a quick fix compared to the alternative.

 

Wonder who the poor sucker was...




I've googled but so far not much found.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks for the help Gary. I'm just glad it's not the clutch itself

 

Advance carries quite a few fittings. I'm thinking it would be worth a try before taking it any where.

 

That is a crimped fitting isn't it? I would try to find a shop that is in the business of making hydraulic lines, and see if they have the proper hand tool to do the repair with the line still installed on the car. If not, I would just change it out. If you repair it, and it fails again, you will pay the repair cost plus any towing charges etc. More expensive in the long run.

 

I've got a remote bleeder that also leaks. But, mine leaks at the bleeder screw itself. Tried replacing the screw etc. and cranking the bleeder down with a bunch of torque but it still leaked a little.

I don't know about cutting the line and putting a new end on it. As suggested earlier, I think your best bet is to find someone that specializes in hydraulic lines and see if they have something that could be used on a small line. Not likely but worth a try.

 

Ive noticed that this leaking remote bleeder issue is becoming a real issue...so much so that it seems that getting one may be more of a problem then dropping the exhaust to bleed the clutch with the existing 7/16 bleeder found on the slave... At this point I would not want to risk loosing the clutch because of a faulty bleeder. Since these bleeders are relatively new.. will the vendor send you a new one and the cost to replace the defective one?I doubt it..... So the question is.. if you had to do it again, would you?

 

ET, the guys in our shop that work exclusively on Corvettes uses the vacuum method at the master cylinder to remove entrapped air. Some of the newer GM vehicles with similar hydraulic clutch systems come without any bleeder at the slave and the vacuum method is the only option.

I’m sure it will start a lash back response from those who have already installed remote bleeders, but the fact is they are not needed, and as you pointed out, LOTS of issues from having them.

 

Question is for you Eric D..
Using this method, could you find out/know the safe range of vacuum
pressure, as in the KPA scale.
I'm assumming your talking about a complete clutch refresh/bleed , to include the confines of the slave.
I used the model MV8000 recently, when I changed out & I bled the clutch m/c.
When doing so, I had the vacuum set @ 42 Kpa, just for the m/c.
With the m/c's quick disconnect (disconnected) between the m/c & slave.
TIA, for any info from the shop.

Thanks, Eric D

 

The slave should have fluid in it at installation. All GM units come with fluid in the slave. The following is with the disconnect between the master and slave connected:

If you are using absolute kPa gauge that normally reads around 100kPa then pulling down to around 50kPa would be sufficient. I know two basic ways to do this. The guys in our shop have a vacuum pod that has a hose attached to a modified clutch reservoir cap. This cap replaces the normal cap after topping off the fluid level in the reservoir. A vacuum is applied and air bubbles will make their why up into the reservoir. After about a minute of this the vacuum is removed, the reservoir level topped off and the clutch pedal is cycled a number of times. If it still feels spongy the process is repeated one more time. Most of the time one vacuum event will do the job.

The second process is a simple hand operated Might-Vac. With the reservoir cap off, a tapered plastic hose end is used and placed down into the bottom of the reservoir and held against the opening that feeds into the master cylinder. While holding the tapered fitting in the hole pump the Might-Vac until you have some vacuum on the gauge. Hold this and keep pumping until the air bubbles stop coming up. Cycle the pedal a number of times and evaluate the feel. If any sponginess persists repeat the process.

A while back one of the guys on the forum said that his clutch pedal stuck to the floor after doing the vacuum procedure. Talking to our shop guys about this, they have never had it happen to them nor me when I’ve done my own cars. They suspect there were other issues that would cause the pedal stick.

 

I just wanted to update this thread with this updated service information write-up documenting an "Improved Way" to bleed the clutch hydraulic system.

I personally would never install one of the aftermarket "Remote Bleeders". There have been numerous issues with some of them leaking and not sealing properly. The primary reason for me not installing one is they are not needed to properly bleed the system.

#01-07-31-002B: Info - Improved Bleeding Procedure for Hydraulic Clutch Release System - (Jul 1, 2011)

Subject: Improved Bleeding Procedure for Hydraulic Clutch Release System

Models:
2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
2007 and Prior Chevrolet and GMC 6-7F T-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models
2007 and Prior Isuzu F-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models
2006–2007 HUMMER H3

This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-31-002A (Section 07 — Transmission/Transaxle).
This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers of an improved procedure to aid in the ease of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system for the above listed vehicles. This procedure can be used anytime air is introduced into the hydraulic system. Following this procedure may also reduce the number of unnecessary parts replaced for low clutch pedal reserve and high shift effort.

1. Verify that all the lines and fittings are dry and secure.
2. Clean the dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.
3. Remove the reservoir cap.
4. Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the required fluid.
5. Attach the J 43485 (Adapter) to the J 35555 (Mity Vac), or equivalent.
Important: Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on J 43485. Use a clean shop cloth to wipe away the fluid after each use.
6. Place and hold the adapter on the reservoir filler neck to ensure a tight fit. In some cases, the adapter will fit into the reservoir opening.
7. Apply a vacuum of 51–68 kPa (15–20 hg) and remove the adapter.
8. Refill the reservoir to the proper level.
9. Repeat Steps 6 and 7.
10. If needed, refill the reservoir and continue to pull a vacuum until no more bubbles can be seen in the reservoir or until the fluid level no longer drops.
Caution The vehicle will move if started in gear before the Actuator Cylinder is refilled and operational. Start the vehicle the first time in neutral to help prevent personal injury from vehicle movement and see if the transmission will shift easily into gear.
11. Pump the clutch pedal until firm (to refill actuator cylinder).
12. Add additional fluid if needed.
13. Test drive vehicle to ensure proper operation.

 

I just used the old method of having the lady friend work the pedal with me under the car. Seems to work fine. I elected to skip the remote after reading this thread. Besides, everything is new and don't anticipate it needing bled for some time. I wasn't convinced I needed one and the report of problems made the final decission.

 

fendermender, curious as to whether you have longtube headers?
I'm most certain that you do not?

 

If you absolutely want to run a remote bleeder, TPE has the only design that positively will not leak at either end but it costs $89.95, so IMHO pay the extra and get one that will work.They did it right and cut no corners with fitting thread angles and seat angles for no leaks. TPE also has a 3 year warranty on it. All other remote bleeders or POS. Here is TPE link to their bleeder on CF:http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...g-stuffer.html

Next time however, when I'm under there I may taking remote bleeder out and never using one again. As Eric noted they arent needed.

 

I'm glad they updated the procedure. But, not everyone owns a mity vac. Honestly, it's a toss up; spend money on the remote bleeder or spend money on the mighty vac plus, I assume, the cost of the J... adapter. If I already owned a mity vac the decision to install or not install would be an easy one. Thanks again for the updated info.

 

This should most likely bleed any air out of the system! Similar to the p/s pump bleed procedure shown in the manual...

But what if you're like me and want to change the coffee in the clutch system from time to time...will this procedure enable me to completely flush the clutch circuit of old fluid?

Honestly, bleeding the old fluid out from below sucks beyond words. Without a remote bleeder line, what other way is there??

I bought my remote bleeder from who-knows-where years ago, and havent had any drama?? And I use it every year. Its a pretty simple system, really.

 

I also have the TPE remote bleeder. Very nice piece as the fitting has the same taper as the oem bleeder screw, so no gasket is needed. Just make sure to use red loctite on the fitting that replaces the oem bleeder screw.

Russ Kemp

 

No. Cat back and staying tht way.

 

Anyone want to post what brand remote bleeder is leaking? I just bought one to install when I put my new slave in. Tell me now before it's too late.

 

I didn't like how the one I bought was going to seal to the slave and made a little tool to sand down the slave to a smooth surface as opposed to the as cast surface. It used a copper washer similar to a brake banjo fitting, but the brake surfaces are machined.

 

When I bought my car (3 months ago) it had the remote bleeder. The previous owner mounted it near the manifold (not many choices other than that) and the car got warm at idle and burst. Needless to say the car was on a flatbed and on jackstands the following day. Dropping the exshaust, tunnel plate , and inspection cover to replace with a factory bleeder. This was a very tight fit and took about 6 hours. I will never install another one and I will now be in search of the vac setup. I don't need yet another reason to remove the driveline.


As bad as it sounds, I almost wish I would have bought an auto. I keep reading about so many clutch and hydrolic issues. Yuck.