Intake Question
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 984
Likes: 23
From: Florence SC
Hello,I can make this quick and simple and doesn't matter which manifold you have.
If your replacing the oil sender I can save you many hours. Remove your wiper arms and cowl screen,now eye ball the oil sender and note its location compaired to the cowl above it.Take a hole saw a bit larger than the oil sender socket and drill a hole threw the fiberglass cowl directly above the oil sender unit, using a long pick pull off the wire connection on the sender, then using compressed air blow off any debris around the sender.I used a wooble extention and attached the sender socket, now put it threw the cowl and remove the faulty oil sensor/sender, place the new sender onto the socket,it will probubly fall off when trying to install the sender ,so take some masking tape and put some on the sender until the sender fits snug in the socket.
CAREFULLY start the sender unit into the block by HAND and make sure not to CROSS TREAD it,next try using mechanical fingers to place the wire connecter on top of the sender and using a screw driver push down and snap the connecter back on.
Next use some duct tape on the drilled out piece of fiberglass on the cowl and from under the cowl tape it on,now above that use some epoxy the fill in the gap,when dry give a quick black paint job.
I have done this method several times and it takes any where from 45 minutes to 2 hours depending on the person and tools being used.
I hope I helped you out. If you have any questions email me T51corvette@live.com
Tonyr
If your replacing the oil sender I can save you many hours. Remove your wiper arms and cowl screen,now eye ball the oil sender and note its location compaired to the cowl above it.Take a hole saw a bit larger than the oil sender socket and drill a hole threw the fiberglass cowl directly above the oil sender unit, using a long pick pull off the wire connection on the sender, then using compressed air blow off any debris around the sender.I used a wooble extention and attached the sender socket, now put it threw the cowl and remove the faulty oil sensor/sender, place the new sender onto the socket,it will probubly fall off when trying to install the sender ,so take some masking tape and put some on the sender until the sender fits snug in the socket.
CAREFULLY start the sender unit into the block by HAND and make sure not to CROSS TREAD it,next try using mechanical fingers to place the wire connecter on top of the sender and using a screw driver push down and snap the connecter back on.
Next use some duct tape on the drilled out piece of fiberglass on the cowl and from under the cowl tape it on,now above that use some epoxy the fill in the gap,when dry give a quick black paint job.
I have done this method several times and it takes any where from 45 minutes to 2 hours depending on the person and tools being used.
I hope I helped you out. If you have any questions email me T51corvette@live.com
Tonyr
I have another question concerning the rear vent hose, is there any advantage to having the rear plumbed, if blocking them off is acceptable also??? Am I wrong assuming these tubes are here just assure coolant circulates through the heads and there are no air pockets? Please be gentle my feelings hurt easily. Thanks
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
GM decided that (for the general masses) having the rear steam vents wasnt necessary so,, they blocked them OFF.
When the hard core want more POWER,, it seems that cylinders 7 and 8 tend to run lean and those cylinders have ring land issues.
The THEORY goes that cylinder temp could come into play and those with block off plugs install some sort of vent to help eliminate the lack of cooling cause of a steam pocket as the root cause.
Hell,,, If hanging Chicken Bones on the block was thought to help, Chicken Bones would be back there!
Here is a picture of a 2001+ front corss over pipe installed in place of the block off plugs:
Heres a picture of a 2001 engine with the block off plug/s installed. (sorry you can only see ONE plug in this shot. You can also see the NON ZO6 PCV system vacuum line like the one on your engine:
BC
When the hard core want more POWER,, it seems that cylinders 7 and 8 tend to run lean and those cylinders have ring land issues.
The THEORY goes that cylinder temp could come into play and those with block off plugs install some sort of vent to help eliminate the lack of cooling cause of a steam pocket as the root cause.
Hell,,, If hanging Chicken Bones on the block was thought to help, Chicken Bones would be back there!
Here is a picture of a 2001+ front corss over pipe installed in place of the block off plugs:
Heres a picture of a 2001 engine with the block off plug/s installed. (sorry you can only see ONE plug in this shot. You can also see the NON ZO6 PCV system vacuum line like the one on your engine:
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Nov 15, 2011 at 12:20 AM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
You post on here with a question that a simple google search or forum search would have yielded the answer to, then you get confused because you misread Bill's post, then you insult the people from whom you are asking advice?
Good luck with your issues.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Anyone that has a 1997 - 2000 and decides to install a 2001+ intake manifold will need to either eliminate the 97-2000 steam vent manifold vent piping OR modify the bottom of the intake manifold ribbing to allow the metal vent line that connects front and rear vent lines to fit below the intake manifold . If you decide to install a FAST,, you MUST eliminate the vent line. You must also replace the VALVE VALLEY COVER BOLTS with the button head bolts. An example of the two types of bolts can be seen in the pictures above.
Bill
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Nov 15, 2011 at 01:23 AM.
