Just got back from a quick drive. First, i approached a stoplight and it seemed like it wanted to stall, gave it some gas and it took right off. Pulled into a parking lot to check things out and listen, and everything sounds normal. First time i have ever had any issues.

Kept driving, while headed home, approached another stoplight and it just died. Came to a stop, put it in park and it fired right up, took it home and put it in the garage.

Codes - B0516H B0367H U1064H

Im betting on that last code being the issue, but i still have the original battery, thinking that may be an issue as well. It is always on a tender, but old is old.

What does everyone think?

2004 Convertible Auto

Thanks!

 

If by original battery you mean the one that came with the car in 2004 then yes, you need to change the battery, and it's a good chance that will fix your problem.

 

Battery should not cause a running engine to die at a light.

A couple of those codes look familiar but I'm on my phone and can't check them easily. First thing that comes to mind is crank sensor...

 

A weak battery surely can cause an engine to die. I've experienced this myself with Chevrolet systems.

 

Ttt

 

A defective battery or bad battery connection can make an engine stall. The cars ignition system.....thats the part that makes the spark plugs " fire " is directly tied to the battery. The cars alternator supplies electricity to the battery,and the battery supplies electricity to the spark plugs....remove the battery and there is no electricity to the spark plugs and the car stalls.

 

Hmm i thought the battery started the car and the alt ran everything.thus if u disconnect the battery your car should stay on...anyways have your battery checked and alternator

 

That used to be the case with older cars, but the newer cars with computers need both a working alternator and a battery with a sufficient charge.

 

Since Corvettes are so voltage sensitive, and 8 years is fairly old for a car battery, I'd certainly replace it if for no other reason than peace of mind....

 

LOL!! Well,, 8 years is GREAT for a battery and if its weak, it sure can cause issues when the battery is being loaded.. Like during starting the engine.

IF,,,,,,, you have a power issue somewhere else, thats a different story.

Without seeing what the DTCs are at time of engine shut down (without turing off the ignition) its difficult to guess what the issue is.

If it were ME and I had this issue,,,,,,,,, Here is what I would do

- Make sure that the battery is still up to the task of providing the C5 with all the battery capability it needs., Fully charge it and take it to Autozone and have them test it.

Make sure that the battery terminals are clean and properly tightened. 11 FT/LBS 97-2003 C5s

Make SURE that the terminals on the starter SOLENOID are clean and tight and NOT damaged!!



If all that stuff checks out,,,,, there are a couple of directions you can go.

Read the DTCs the second the engine dies. Do NOT turn the IGNITION OFF. Just go directly into the DTC reading routine.

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!


Those DTCs are the important ones!

Depending on what you read,, it can take you to the correct troubleshooting path.

My "HUNCH" is, you have a defective ignition switch.

Here is a post that will help you prove or disapprove that theory:

- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

Hope this helps....
Bill

 

Thanks for the info! Definitely going to start with the battery, I will test it and all to see if it is the issue, but will replace it anyways since it is past due and will go from there. I will report back with what I find out.

 

Try to follow Mr. Curlee's advice and do a logical trouble shoot. I had a similar issue a couple of weeks ago. I removed my ignition switch and did the Curlee clean up. So far so good.

 

I think I would simply clean the MAF and TB before I tried anything else.

Just my $.02

 

Almost sounds like a vacuum leak to me

 

Let us know how you make out and what you decide to do.

BC

 

New battery is in, but I discovered an air leak where the coupler between the throttle body and air bridge meet. I must have over tightened the clamp on the air bridge causing the plastic to "Crimp" creating a small gap. Now I'm waiting on a power duct to get here to see if that takes care of the problem.

Thanks for the info!

 

I'm having the SAME exact problem. Lately the idle RPMs drop very low when I put it in neutral or she just dies...starts up great. Have been having battery problems though....4 or more days of sitting and she may not crank...so I obviously have an electric problem. Let us know how it goes!

 

Well first thing that popped into my head was a improperly tuned "cammed" car haha but I'm guessing that's not your issue!

 

Next up, MAF sensor is going to be cleaned. I put the lightest amount of oil on my air filter as possible, but maybe that was still too much. Gonna give it a cleaning with CRC MAF sensor cleaner and see what happens after that. I've been through one tank of gas since I've cleaned and oiled the filter, so maybe that was enough time to "dirty up" the sensor.

It mainly acts up when I start to come to a stoplight, when I come to a complete stop the rpms want to drop a touch to low, then it recovers. Sits right around 500-600rpms, but the needle will bounce around, will not be smooth like before. Right now that's the only thing different I have done to the Vette in the short span was clean and oil the filter.

 

Have you checked for any vacuum leaks?