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Does anyone know if the Harmonic balancer bolt is right hand or left hand threaded? I tried undoing it counter clockwise and it wont come off and am afraid to torque on it and it damage something or twist off.. thx
Right tight, left loose. The bolt is torqued VERY tight, get a 3 foot breaker bar on it. Also, they are a one time use bolt, so when you replace it, use a new bolt and follow the proper procedure for installing it.
Heat the bolt head for about 2 minutes with a propane torch. It will loosen the loctite on it and helps a lot. An electric impact works as well, as long as you heat it.
Thanks Guys, I appreciate the info. Another question...If I put my car in Drive will this lock up the tranny and all where I can torque on the bolt with out the engine turning over? If not how do you guys do it? thanks
With a stick, yes. With an auto, you need the flywheel lock that is installed where the starter is. Some have used strap wrenches and other methods but I would be concerned with the new installation. I would personally use the flywheel lock.
Remove the belt and use a LARGE strap wrench to hold the damper.
I can remove the bolt and reinstall it myself using a 3 foot breaker bar and the strap wrench.
NOTE... MANDATORY bolt replacement!
You MUST follow the service manual to a T or the bolt will fail or damage the crank or both. I use an ARP Bolt. It is able to be used multiple times and the bolt is torques to 240 ft/lbs one time!
Remove the belt and use a LARGE strap wrench to hold the damper.
I can remove the bolt and reinstall it myself using a 3 foot breaker bar and the strap wrench.
NOTE... MANDATORY bolt replacement!
You MUST follow the service manual to a T or the bolt will fail or damage the crank or both. I use an ARP Bolt. It is able to be used multiple times and the bolt is torques to 240 ft/lbs one time!
BC
Thanks! I will pick one up tomorrow, I would have never thought of useing one of those. I was trying today with my dad holding a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth and it wasnt working. I am having hell getting that bolt out and i even heated the bolt with a torch. I am borrowing my neighbors impact wrench and air comp tomorrow so maybe it will work with that. Thanks for the pics too Paul that helps alot
Thanks! I will pick one up tomorrow, I would have never thought of useing one of those. I was trying today with my dad holding a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth and it wasnt working. I am having hell getting that bolt out and i even heated the bolt with a torch. I am borrowing my neighbors impact wrench and air comp tomorrow so maybe it will work with that. Thanks for the pics too Paul that helps alot
Impact will work just fine to get it off
BUT you're still going to need the strap wrench or flywheel lock to install the new bolt.
I just took miine off earlier, (cam install) used a 24mm 6 point deep socket and an old 2.5" x16"exhaust pipe as a cheater pipe...stood by passenger side wheel, grabbed pipe with both hands and kinda squated to use leg power and pulled towards me....worked like a champ
I heated the head with a simple handheld butane soldering lighter thing that I use to light campfires in breezy situations. Heated it for ~30 sec and my impact spun it right off.
My impact has a 1200lb break away torque rating, and it STILL didnt phase that bolt til I heated it. Then it came off like butter.
I rented a 0-250 ft/lb torque wrench from Autozone. It was pretty long also. When you remove and reinstall the damper,, it makes the procedure a LOT easier if you heat up the damper HUB with a torch or wagner heat gun.
Just get the HUB portion of the damper up to approx 150 deg and you will be amazed at how much easier it is to move it on the crank! It doesnt have to be hot enough to damage the damper, just very warm!
LoL Trust me Strength isnt the problem, ive got it up on jack stands and there isnt alot of room to get a long breaker bar in there and get some torque on it, I'm laying on the ground. I will try the heating the Hub deal when i start putting the new one on for sure thanks for that info How do you know when it is all aligned right? someone said it doesnt have a Stopping point so you have to stop pushing the balancer on when it is aligned with the other pulleys. how did you guys make sure you didnt go in to far? thanks for all the help its appreciated
How do you know when it is all aligned right? someone said it doesnt have a Stopping point so you have to stop pushing the balancer on when it is aligned with the other pulleys. how did you guys make sure you didnt go in to far? thanks for all the help its appreciated
For an OEM balancer:
For an aftermarket balancer you may have to measure the hub length and do some math.
Thanks for that it helped alot
I Finally got the old one off and the new one on that was a bugger! Impact wrench wouldnt budge it even with heating with a propane torch for 5 mins. I finally was able to wrench it off with an 18" breaker bar (Longest i have) but it wasnt fun lol. when i used the pully puller to pull the old HB off the outer ring with the Grooves came off first and then the inner part, It came off in two pieces so it was definately shot. The new one went on pretty easy with the installation tool i bought. The strap idea didnt work out taking the old one off since the HB was in two pieces but my dad held a screwdriver in the teeth of the flywhjeel and it held good enough to get the job done. So tomorrow i get to button it all back up and install the B&B Bullet exhaust that showed up today!