Wow its late and i cant spell fell of not feel off sorry. ok read a bunch of post and just want to clear one question up before I install the new one. I order a replacement one from autozone and ordered a new bolt from ZIP and have it all taken apart. now they are not keyed and from what I have read is you need to scribe the old one, well I am SOL there cuz the bolt came so loose the balancer spun. and the old one is off I test fit it and from what I read it should press on and mine doesn't. There is a bit of play in it just sitting on the cranck. every thing look clean but want to double check before put back together thanks the old one was loose as well

02 corvette coupe 6 spd ls1

 

Ouch...not good. Your crank is now undersize......
I'm thinking you should measure the snout very carefully and call ATI and see if they have something for you. Theirs are usually a bitch to get on as is and require a light hone.
I also suggest you talk to them about their pinning kit.

Got any photos?

Ron

 

Like stated, measure the crank. You need a good micrometer to get the interference number figured out (accuracy to 0.0001") however an initial measurement with a caliper that is only accurate to 0.001" will tell you if the crank snout it out of specification.

What type of harmonic damper did you get from Autozone? Think I would have gone with a more recognized manufacturer myself.

You need to determine if the crank or the damper is the issue and work from there.

Also, what procedure did you use for installation (hopefully no ls1howto.com)

 

Ronssnova I can't figure out how to up load pics but if you send me an email address I can send them that way. Who is ati. I will try to get a micrometer today. Re looked at it this morning there isn't play on it to where when its on I can move it up and down or side to side but it did just slide on and I can free spin it easily

 

http://www.atiracing.com/

 

Sent you a PM

Ron

 

Here you go.

This doesn't look good. Not sure how you are going to fix that short of a new crank. The end of the crank is tapered pretty badly.
Maybe someone else has ideas.


Ron

 

Time to pin it I think.

 

Yikes... That looks pretty bad. I have seen two pinning kits. I *think* you might have better luck with the version that you drill from the front. the ATI pin is made for a balancer with a square keyway already machined on the ID of the balancer. I think you would be putting alot of stress on this pin.

The other pinning kit actually drills into the crank and the balancer then you tap the pin into the hole. I might even put a couple of pins in it. I worry about you experiencing some wobble if you are missing too much material and tearing up belts.

Get a good quality balancer that you aren't going to have to remove again and the ARP bolt.

 

Think I'm might just lock tight the **** out of it and take it to the dealership and trade it in

 

wow, it must have been loose for a long time to do that much damage

 

HOLY CRAP! Thats the worst one that I have ever seen!

Dont know if you will ever be able to fix it properly!

I know its not the correct way to repair it but, get some PC-7 epoxy putty. Pin the crank and shim it so that its running TRUE and doesnt wobble and use the PC-7 EPOXY putty to set the damper on the crank. Just make sure that the new damper and crank snout is clean and you rough up the inside of the new damper so the epoxy has something to bite into. Work it in and install the bolt. Once the epoxy sets up, I bet it will work.


That stuff is pretty durable. It might save the day but then again, it migh just be a temp fix.

 

Man, that sure looks like it's toast!.

 

Is their a certain way to align the balancer so theirs not a problem with it being off set or anything

 

Damper alignment in your case is the LEAST of your worries. In your case, its out of the question.

When your engine is assembled and balanced at the factory, the MN6 and MN12 cars go thru an additional balance procedure. The rotating assy is further balanced using weight and installing them in the flywheel and or in the dampener.

You were suppose to mark the damper and crank and put the OEM dampener back on in the same position.

The damper is not as critical as the flywheel balance.

I have an aftermarket Power Bond damper and it does not have any balance holes and is zero balanced. It did not change the engine balance that I could feel.

BC

 

It's hard to tell but it almost looks like about 1/2 of the snout is damaged and the part from the cover in is OK. The outer part is screwed enough you can't use it for pinning or holding the damper. It looks like it fell off and then quit turning (jammed against the rack) and the crank just spun inside the hole for a while chewing the end of the crank up.

You need to see how a new damper fits. If it will have an interference fit for the inner 1/2 of the snout then I would pull the timing chain cover and put a pin in the crank way back under the cover where it does interfere fit. Then, install an aftermarket damper with the keyway using an ARP bolt. You need 2 things for it to stay on. #1 is that it has to interfere fit enough it can't wobble or wiggle around on the crank (AT ALL - NO MOVEMENT). I believe using an interference fit for 1/2 the snout would still be enough to achieve this. #2 is that it has to be installed so it can't turn again. From the factory the whole snout gives a tight enough friction fit that it can't rotate. You've lost that with the damage in the picture so now you need to pin it to keep it from rotating.

You could also get the front pinning kit and get the damper on the crank and then run 2 pins 180* across from each other into it from the front. You may need to drill deep and then use a punch to drive the pins in far enough to hold. Obviously, a pin right at the end won't be doing much.

If you use a side pinning kit and have a gap between the crank and the damper, I'd bet that the pin would just shear off and then the damper would fall off again.

 

I don't think it will ever be right and not leak. I'm sorry

 

Yea it looks bad, but if you use the ATI pin to locate the balancer for future relocation purposes then also double pin from the front as suggested I doubt you will have problems. I'm not sure what if any interference fit the LS balancers are supposed to have but I think all of the torque required by the balancer bolt is there to keep the balancer bottomed out on the oil pump drive sprocket, which keeps the balancer from spinning on the crank snout. Personally I probably couldn't sleep at night worrying about it, but I worry too much anyway. Good luck with the repair. PS Buy quality parts for your car, you will be glad you did in the long run. JMO

 

Decided It would be a good Idea just to rebuild it. Now I just need to find out what kits to put back Into it

 

I would look into buying a complete shortblock