Need help with balancer install
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 210
Likes: 1
From: Johnston Rhode Island
Need help with balancer install
Hey guys, I was installing my A&A kit, i pinned the crank and all. Well, after start-up I noticed my balancer was wobbling, I knew I shouldnt of ran the stock junk anyways. So I talked to A&A and they reccomended the Summit 6-rib SFI standard c2501 as I will be running the flip drive anyways.
Well, I decided to look up some install on balancers on c5 and got pretty damn confused lol. I initially thought that you can just get the puller tool, take off the old balancer and Press on a new one and use a new balancer bolt and be good to go. While looking it up I was reading stuff about marking where it is on the crankshaft so you can line up the new one in the same orientation (which I dont even know how you would line up the new one it doesnt have any markings? Then i was reading something about taking off weights from the stock one and installing them in the same place on my new balancer? I'm not sure if this is because this thread was for a stock balancer or something but can someone guide me a bit on what I should do?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-c2501
theres the balancer I got
Well, I decided to look up some install on balancers on c5 and got pretty damn confused lol. I initially thought that you can just get the puller tool, take off the old balancer and Press on a new one and use a new balancer bolt and be good to go. While looking it up I was reading stuff about marking where it is on the crankshaft so you can line up the new one in the same orientation (which I dont even know how you would line up the new one it doesnt have any markings? Then i was reading something about taking off weights from the stock one and installing them in the same place on my new balancer? I'm not sure if this is because this thread was for a stock balancer or something but can someone guide me a bit on what I should do?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-c2501
theres the balancer I got
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,367
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
The OE balancer, on stick shift cars, uses small weights to get a "perfect balance" of the engine/clutch/pressure plate as an assembly. The weights are pressed into small holes in the OE damper. The information you read is for replacing an OE damper with another OE damper.
I replaced my OE damper last weekend with an ATI piece. There was no messing around with any weights.
I replaced my OE damper last weekend with an ATI piece. There was no messing around with any weights.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
And don't use the old bolt to press on during removal, put a socket or something else that will transfer the force in the end of the crank, not the threads. And don't use a bolt to install the new one. So many guys have ruined their crank threads doing these things.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
NO,,,,,, You install it ALL the way on the snout seatd on the gear and if its on properly you should have that much clearance.
DO NOT use the old bolt to start pressing the damper on to the snout!
It will only catch 3-4 threads and the force required to press it on to the snout can and will rip the threads out of the crank snout. Use an install tool and then use the OLD BOLT to seat the damper fully.
Honestly, I recommend that you up grader to an ARP damper bolt.
DO NOT use the old bolt to start pressing the damper on to the snout!
It will only catch 3-4 threads and the force required to press it on to the snout can and will rip the threads out of the crank snout. Use an install tool and then use the OLD BOLT to seat the damper fully.
Honestly, I recommend that you up grader to an ARP damper bolt.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,367
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
Here are the GM Service Manual Instructions. Note, if you use a different damper than the measurement will likely change. I measured stock and my ATI and figured out what the new measurement should be. If you don't have the installation tool, make one. Don't use a bolt to pull it on, even a longer one. If you go with ARP, follow the GM procedure right up to the point where the new GM bolt is installed. Then follow the procedure for the ARP bolt but lube the threads, bolt head and washer before installation.
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Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,060
Likes: 291
From: Pasco WA
Excuse me, but the above advice is partially incorrect. You can use a longer than factory bolt to re-install without any undue pressure. I've done it 3 times, and since the new balancer is press on, it doesn't take much tension to seat the balancer. Use a stock thread size bolt that's about 125mm long. For even easier installation, you can heat up the new balancer before installing. Some people think you need Mr. Goodwrench looking over your shoulder, and that you need to memorize the tech manuals before changing your oil.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 660
Likes: 16
From: Tustin California
I've been running that same balancer for 3 years. It is an 8 rib but the belt rides on the 6 ribs that are closer to the radiator. It works perfectly. Make sure you end up with the crank recessed .094 to .176 into the balancer bore. As Bill C. says get an ARP bolt and torque to 240 lbs. after you get the balancer seated to the correct depth. Rent, borrow, or buy an installation tool. Drill a new pin hole 180 from the first one you drilled. Don't forget a new seal, this isn't a time to cheap out and reuse the old one. Just my .02, Rod
Last edited by rodsvet; Sep 6, 2013 at 11:04 PM.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 660
Likes: 16
From: Tustin California
One pin should do it. You can always make a pin by cutting off a section of a 1/4" drill bit. The make several seal pullers that hook behind the seal and pry or tap it out. Be really careful to only hook onto the seal and not the edge of the timing cover. Gently and evenly seat the new seal. Install the balancer per the instructions above, and you should be good to go. Rod
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,367
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,060
Likes: 291
From: Pasco WA
Unless you have a hardware store. Longer than stock metric bolt was $6, IIRC, and I didn't have to wait for it. For the doubters; the longer bolt uses all of the threads, not just the outside few, so, no issues with crank threads. No need to re-invent the wheel.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 111
From: Fredericksburg Virginia
I just picked up a loaner tool from Advance that will work. It's the full balance remover/installer kit. Comes with several different pullers, one being what we need. The installer has a bunch of different threaded adapters. One being the M16 x 2.0 metric thread. I will be installing mine later this morning.