its hard to get my mn12 in every gear even after i replaced my master cylinder. going to try and rebleed it again tomorrow morning to see if i still have air in the lines but just wanted to start shopping and pricing rebuild kits. i want to do it once and be done with it because after buying three trannys in the for sale section over here im tired of getting burned. looking for it to handle 450-500rwtq i tried t56rebuilds.com but their site is off.

 

Does it grind going in reverse? Does the clutch start to engage close to floor? If so, you need to rebleed the clutch.
If you need a trans, call Rick Kim at rkt56 performance. He does great work and is reasonable! He did a 4.10 diff for me and it works perfectly.

 

i have a hurst shifter but its a pain in the *** to get it in reverse from day one. but over the passed week i had a hard time getting it in ever gear so thats when i swapped a new master cylinder in today. i was running out of light so i rushed the bleeding process and still has the same problem.

 

parts only for the stage 2 is 799. was going to price a local tranny shop to see if they could install it and compare prices.

T56 Transmission Rebuild Package Level 2 "PARTS ONLY" for 1997-2007 Corvette & 2004-2006 GTO
If you are wanting to rebuild your T56 yourself or have your own shop do it, we offer T56 rebuild packages from mild to wild to suit your C5 Corvette or GTO! If your car is making under 600ft/lbs of torque than we reccomend the level 2 rebuld package, however if you are making more than 600ft/lbs rear wheel then you may want to consider upgrading to the level 3 Extreme "Viper" rebuild kit which is good over 1,000ft/lbs of torque!!! And remeber if all of this is to confusing, just give us a call and we will be more than happy to go over it with you...

This rebuild package will include the following:
-Carbon Fiber Synchronizer Blocker Ring Kit
-1-2 & 3-4 Billet Keys
-1-2 & 3-4 Bronze Shift Pads
-5-6 & Reverse Keys
-5-6 & Reverse Shift Pads
-Front Input Seal
-Isolator Cup

texas motorsports could put those parts in plus 3-4 steel shift fork for 1499 with exchange of core.

 

this is from Texas drivetrain peformance
Stage 2 - $1000 (highly recommended)
All the above plus
-Billet 1-2 keys
-Billet 3-4 keys
-Bronze 1-2-3-4 fork pads
-Bronze shifter bushing
-Steel 3-4 shift fork

*Prices include all parts & labor for this one

 

Sucks to have bad experiences, but I have a RPM Level V T-56 with a 30 Spline Output Shaft, M12 Gearing, and 1 piece coutershaft. Jeremy at RPM can back this up. Here's a link incase your interested.

 

all i heard was good things about rpm but it is out of my price range. im going to try and bleed it one more time then swap the clutch to see if any of this fixes it. the car moves while its in gear so im thinking its clutch related im just hoping i didnt screw my transmission over while driving it 5 miles to work every day for the last week.

 

If your car has any forward or rearward CREEP while it is in gear, clutch fully depressed and engine revved,, you will never have proper gear shift feel. It will always be heavy and grind at times when shifting between gears. It will also wear the synchros and synchro gear teeth the more you use it in that condition. I agree! Get someone to help you bleed it properly first. Hopefully, that will resolve the issue.

Either you have air in the system or the pressure plate fingers are damaged and not allowing the pressure plate to properly disengage fully.

IF and When you have to disassemble the drive train to recover from this issue, there are several WALLET SUCKING things that you need to take a look at that will help you and your drive train survive the added power and things that happen bad when you don’t plan ahead of time

Example
Clutch Slave Cyl Remote Bleader
Torque tube rubber coupler bushings and bearings
Drive Train Vibrations vs Proper clutch balance
Differential up-grades
Proper slave cylinder to pressure plate measurements and slave cyl shimming.

Been down this road and I did all the things mentioned above and my spec dual disk clutch and the rest of the drive train works great at 450 RWHP.

Some post links to take a look at:


- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
-

- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966

- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html


-- C5 ragtopws6, T-56 Build (whats in my tranny?) : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/nort...-smoother.html

I AGREE 100% Rick Kim RKT56 builds one hell of a tranny and will listen to your needs, goals and point you in the correct direction for a proper rebuild!

Bill Curlee

 

bleed the clutch again, probally another 5-6 times of pumping, holding and releasing the fluid. the car felt good for the first 1/4 mile but once it got hot i assume the same problems came back. i just replaced the master and now thinking my best bet would be to through the ls7 or ls6 clutch i have laying around in the car. i also have a leaky butt in the passenger diff from what i could see under the car so i have to replace those seals while i got the drivetrain out of the car. could i order those seals from the local auto zone? thanks for the help my friend.

 

I'm 99.99% sure the seals for the rear end are GM only parts. Good luck with solving this. Sounds a major PITA!

 

yea none of them carry the parts so i just ordered it from Gene Culley. 105 for 2 o-rings and 2 seals.

 

Are you on a stock clutch currently and how much power?

 

textralia oz700 380rwhp, just rebuilt the bottom end 6 months ago because of rod bearing.

 

Just realized you're the same guy I was replying to on LS1tech

 

Like people are saying, if you have not touched your slave cylinder, it is air in the system. bleed, bleed, and bleed some more. Be absolutely positive there is no air in the system then, with the car stationary, clutch out in neutral, push the clutch in and put the car in first. Be prepared to look for the slightest movement. Now rev your car up to ~5k. There should be absolutely no movement in the positioning of your car. If there is movement its time to replace your slave cylinder and measure spacing for a shim (if needed). If you have movement when revving your car your clutch is not capable of fully disengaging.

Always measure the clearances on your slave. Even if vendors advertise that you don't need a shim with their clutches....measure it anyways. I know a couple of people that have used these clutches that claim no require no shimming and needed one. Its the life of your transmission if your clutch drags.

 

it was the clutch springs and thanks for the info bud, i didn't know i had to shim the slave. what is proper measurement by that? ill test it once i get the car back on the road this weekend.

 

Every car is a little different and every clutch is a little different. You will have to look up the spec range and measure your particular setup. Sorry I don't know the spec range or I would post it.