crank pully?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
crank pully?
there is a squeak from one of my pully's i believe it is the crank pully if so how hard are those to replace? every site i lood up keeps talking about steering coloumn and starter but it only looks like loosen the tensioner and taking the A/C belts off and one bolt for the crank pully... im sort've new to cars know the lingo and some stuff bout internals.... thanks for everyones help in advance. o its a 99 corvette manual
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,719
Likes: 4
From: cinnaminson n.j.
St. Jude Donor '14
The steering rack has to come out. You will need a puller and installer. Do NOT hammer it on. Powerbond makes a good replacement. Google it. You'll find tons of info and probably videos.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
ok will do... would there be any benefit to installing a light weight performance pully? if there is one
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
This is a fairly big job. The bolt (if you use GM) needs to be installed exactly per the service manual or it will come loose. As for the under drive, you can pick up about 5 hp but they won't damp harmonics as well. It is a trade-off. Many who run them don't seem to have long term issues with the motor. Rather than the GM bolt, ARP makes a re-useable bolt that is installed with a torque value rather than 140 degrees of rotation.
Whatever you do, don't follow ls1howto.com for this work. Do a search on here and read the threads on how guys have messed up their crank threads before you start this job. This will show you what not to do.
Whatever you do, don't follow ls1howto.com for this work. Do a search on here and read the threads on how guys have messed up their crank threads before you start this job. This will show you what not to do.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 450
Likes: 18
From: NORTHPORT NY
Pulley
I just did mine 2weeks ago vette nuts is right use the proper tools and instructions from this site and you will be ok. Private me I can lend you the tool to put the balancer on and the wrench to remove the lines on the steering rack. it's really not that hard.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2014
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If you have NOISE,,, what you need to examine is the "IDLER PULLEY" for each Belt.
The AC Compressor has its own belt and pulley.
Most of the time you have noise, its caused by the tensioner or the belt.
That said,,, You also need to Examine the Dampener for wobble and outer ring slippage.
Idler pulley is easy to repair.
Harmonic Dampener is a complex procedure...
BC
BC
The AC Compressor has its own belt and pulley.
Most of the time you have noise, its caused by the tensioner or the belt.
That said,,, You also need to Examine the Dampener for wobble and outer ring slippage.
Idler pulley is easy to repair.
Harmonic Dampener is a complex procedure...
BC
BC
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
If you have NOISE,,, what you need to examine is the "IDLER PULLEY" for each Belt.
The AC Compressor has its own belt and pulley.
Most of the time you have noise, its caused by the tensioner or the belt.
That said,,, You also need to Examine the Dampener for wobble and outer ring slippage.
Idler pulley is easy to repair.
Harmonic Dampener is a complex procedure...
BC
BC
The AC Compressor has its own belt and pulley.
Most of the time you have noise, its caused by the tensioner or the belt.
That said,,, You also need to Examine the Dampener for wobble and outer ring slippage.
Idler pulley is easy to repair.
Harmonic Dampener is a complex procedure...
BC
BC
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Racer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 472
Likes: 9
From: San Diego CA
Just thought I'd mention the ajax/comet trick got rid of my squeaking noises for good. It's just a band-aid, but it's been 3 months and zero squeak. Belts are still in great shape.
I do however, have a 2004, not a 99, so your problem may be one or more of the pulleys (or tensioner).
Just additional information to the thread that others my want to try.
I do however, have a 2004, not a 99, so your problem may be one or more of the pulleys (or tensioner).
Just additional information to the thread that others my want to try.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
uptade: bought some prestone spray for the belt to help the squeal....total fail! it made it quiet at idle but horrible squeal anywere above 1500 RPMS sounded like my tensioner pully was out it was so bad and still is. im gona wait for it to wear off and then buy a new belt i think thats all the problem is. will update as things go thanks for all the tips everyone! i will be taking the belt off and inspecting every pully to be sure this week
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 12,413
Likes: 501
From: Rio Rancho NM
Seat your pulley back onto the snout of the crankshaft as best you can by hand. If you purchased a longer crank bolt which I *highly* recommend, start threading this in now and pull the pulley on about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and remove the longer bolt. Use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft until the bolt seems to get impossible to turn. Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lb/ft. I have always stopped at 200lb/ft on my installs and I've never had a problem, so if you can't hit 240 (which I never have), don't worry about it. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
NOTE: If you did not buy a longer crank bolt, and you are reinstalling the stock pulley, you run the risk of stripping out the first few threads of the crankshaft. This will NOT be fun to fix! Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand.
I used this to for my cam install no issues granted i made a really long bolt..
Here is the tool I made a 16mx2mm with some washers. Worked like a champ..obviously I cut it to the length I needed
