Hi,
I am in a never-ending lookout for different parts and run different scenarios about setups.
Just a couple of weeks ago I almost pulled the trigger on a FAST intake, but it did not take long to realize, that I had no idea what am I doing. By this I mean, that when I called a couple of the vendors on here to ask a couple of things, I just got even more confused.
I fully understand how the intakes work and what are their benefits. What I don't understand is what exactly is involved in installing one, because apparently it is far from swapping my stock one.
First, let me say what is "das grosse plan".
Right now I have a stock LS1 with some cold air intake and long tube headers, running on an ECS mail tune. I am trying to build my car on a budget, which means that it will take a lot longer than usual as I would have to do it in stages. So the next stage was the manifold. and later on (next year) adding a Trickflow top end kit, replacing the heads and cam.
So here is what I can't quite understand.

- Fast92 / Fast102 intakes. What are the differences? Are they direct bolt on or need any modifications?
-With either one of the FAST intakes, do I need to change the throttle body? If yes, then what kind of Throttle body should I go with and why?
- do I need anything else with the change of the manifold? Do I need different injectors with the stock motor? Do I need new fuel rails?
Thanks in advance.

 

Don't waste your money, save up for a supercharger - cheaper in the long run

 

Why can't people on this forum stick to topics?
I don't want a supercharger. Not interested in one now, not in the plans for the future.
I am just interested in any useful info about the intakes. I read few topics on the LS1 forum, but everyone was comparing them on Camaros, on LS6 motors and on modified engines.
So, again, I need help learning the benefits and differences between the two and what is involved in installing them. Will I have to retune the PCM again if I put a Fast intake?
What gains can I expect from a switch from my LS1 intake to a LS6/Fast92/fast102 intakes? And what would be the total cost of installation of each one of them in needed parts and accessories?

 

not sure what year your car is but 01-04 came with the ls6 intake from the factory which is pretty good in it's own right... personally I would not install a fast intake unless you are doing a max effort heads/cam setup as they don't benefit much if at all until that point... if you stay stock cubes go with the 92 and if you do anything over 400 cubes the 102 would be a better choice... with either one you will need an ls2 4 bolt throttle body and either cut and resolder the plugs or get an adapter harness from caspers or something like that... you will also need button head valley cover bolts or you risk cracking the intake when you bolt it down... I believe the 92 will accept your factory rails and everything else... the 102 you might need a newer style or aftermarket fuel rail setup to work properly, I'm not sure about those

 

So is the LS6 a plug and play, other than the steam tubes?

 

yes and you can actually keep your steam tubes, I would actually recommend it... all you need to do is knock off some of the ribs on the bottom of the ls6 intake and and it will clear just fine... the ls1 intake is concave towards the middle and the ls6 is flat that's why it won't clear without knocking the ribs off... I have done this on my old trans am and my z with no issues, the intake is plenty strong and it won't decrease it's structural strength enough to make a difference in my opinion... the reason I recommend keeping the older style steam tube is because if you start making big power you want to keep the back cylinders as cool as possible to prevent detonation... more often than not they fail due to a bad ringland on cylinder # 5 or 7... I have never tried to install a fast intake with the old style steam tubes so i'm not sure if that will work... if not they make steam tube kits or you can make your own

 

thanks the OP profile says 00 so the LS6 would be a viable option. plus I love learning
What could he expect in the way of gains by doing the LS6 intake vs stock?

 

I very rarely look at profiles haha... but yes an ls6 would be a good option if you aren't planning to do a max effort heads/cam setup, actually I think the fast is a waste of money if you aren't doing that... and if you do decide to boost the car later on just keep the ls6, it will make plenty of power and stay in one piece, fast intakes are 3 pieces and like to crack when pressurized

 

Good stuff thanks

 

Thank you for the info neutron82.
So, my car is a 2000 Coupe M6. I have a pretty good picture what I want it to become. I just don't have a so clear picture what is the best and most cost effective way to get there.
I want a NA motor with the stock displacement making mid 500hp on the crank, which is easy to live with and reliable for many miles to come. I want it to be able rev high and fast. After the modified suspension (I'm already past that stage) And shaving at least 200lbs (I'm half way there) I should have no problem disposing of a stock C6z06. That's the goal.
Trick flow have a complete top end package that makes 515hp on the crank. According to them this is a very conservative cam and therefore hp number for the heads, but a very solid reliable and drivable package. They got their numbers with an LS6 intake and throttle body. And claim that with the same heads/cam, but FAST intake and bigger tb the gains are considerably higher (close to 40hp on the crank).
And here is my dilemma. I will have the money for the top end improvement from my taxes this time next year. But I will not be able to add to it the FAST, because it will put me considerably over budget. But i do have the budget to get just the FAST now.
So is that worth it, or should I just get a LS6 intake? Also is there any difference between the LS1 and LS6 throttle bodies?
I know that pretty much any manifold out there would be an improvement over the stock LS1. The main question is if the improvement going to FAST92 compared to LS6 justifies the price difference between the two, taking into consideration all the additional things I need to buy or modify?

 

judging by where you ultimately want to end up I think the fast 92 and ls2 throttle body is what you would need, you are going to need a good set of heads and fairly aggressive cam to hit those numbers and probably end up around 470rwhp give or take a few... if you have the means to buy it you could just set it aside until you get the heads/cam package and do it all at once... a fast intake on a stock motor won't do much if anything at all... ls1 and ls6 throttle bodies are exactly the same

 

Thank you. The thing is that knowing myself there is no chance the funds would survive a year. LOL
This is the package I am talking about

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-k306-515-460

And the plan is to pair it with a LS7 clutch and the billet aluminum (and much lighter) Fidanza flywheel. This should be done sometimes in the next few months. Read end of summer.

P.S. Forgot to mention that removing the A/C is also on the table.

 

I dunno man, some of the stuff in that kit I don't like personally... I would ditch the rockers for sure and use factory rockers with a trunion upgrade... pushrods I wouldn't order until everything is bolted on the car and measured just to make sure... and I have a hard time believing it will make the power you are wanting to make with that cam, it seems a little on the small side... you might get in touch with tony mamo, patrick g, brian tooley, guys like that have been there and done that and can easily put you in the right direction

 

How do I get in touch with any of these guys?
That kit is supposedly proven to work extremely well and the power is right on. But it is just hearsay. That is why I am here, to learn the best way.

 

all those guys are on this forum, not sure of their exact screen names but if you search around for them you will find them... on top of the stuff pictured you should invest in an oil pump, timing chain, maybe a new balancer, you might need a new cam retainer plate/bolts, I'd rather use arp head bolts, and will also need a front cover gasket, coolant, etc... you could probably do it a little cheaper if you piece the kit out yourself and shop around for good deals on parts rather than buying it as one kit

 

Those are Harland Sharpe rockers in the kit. Personally, I would favor the Yella Terra ultralights over those. The reason they include them is the heads have bronze guides and if you use the stock rockers you will be pulling heads to replace guides as the stock rockers will wear them very quickly.

Here is some information on rocker wipe pattern: Link

Here is some information on pushrod stiffness: Link

They also recommend that the kit be used with 10.5:1 compression. So you need to find out what the head gasket thickness is and what if any machine work would be required. I would think the heads are correctly milled for that gasket thickness to develop what they recommend for compression ratio but you should look into that. Trick Flow may have more information on their web site.

 

The fast manifold will require the use of a new throttle body. The 102 is a little much on a fairly stock engine, and has some fitment issues. The 92 is probably what you need. You will be looking to spend about 1200 for the intake and TB. You will need a LS2 TB and a wiring harness to covert from stock to the LS2. As far as the intake, you can swap over almost everything else. Most also choose to have the fast ported for some additional gains. There is nothing hard about swapping it. Everything just bolts up to the new intake.

Stock injectors are good for about 400 rwhp and about 450 rwhp if you have the 28 lb injectos.

 

Bolting on parts is the easy part. Planning the entire build is difficult.

There's a racers old saying, CHEEP/FAST RELIABLE Pick TWO cause you cant have all three!!!!

There are HIDDEN cost and parts that you should be aware of. I hate when people spend thousands of dollars on a fast engine and the first 20 min on the track, they trash the drive train. Or they have a SINGER SEWING MACHINE engine, cant stand the NOISE and cant understand where they went wrong.

Some lessons learned:

Parts that you SHOULD and or must HAVE: (please excuse me if you already know this)

- New OEM head bolts (Torque to Yield, ****-can the old ones)
* STRONGLY RECOMMENDED ARP head Studs over OEM head bolts!!
- New high quality Lifters and new GM lifter buckets
- New Melling Oil pump
- New LS3 Timing Chain
- Comp Cams Valve rocker Trunion up-grade
- New properly rated injectors. I use 42 LB/hr for my set up and they are excellent. 36 lb/hr would also be fine.
- Fast 90 0r 92 Requires shallow valley cover bolts to be installed
- 90mm Throttle body with adapter harness.
- New MLSS Head Gaskets
- New Timing Chain cover gasket and damper seal
- New OEM Dampener or I recommend a POWER BOND dampener requires a new different diameter belt is you get an under drive pulley.
- The correct length push rods!! Measure twice with a push rod checker, order ONCE. I also recommend getting a larger diameter push rod.

- Professional Tune!!!

FAST 90 button top valley bolts and ARP Head Studs!!



Things that I learned after doing this a dozen times on friends cars:

Once the engine is sorted out and tuned, your drive train will start complaining!!!

10 min into on the road tuning and making 450 RWHP the clutch would STICK TO THE FLOOR under each full throttle run!

HAD TO INSTALL A BETTER CLUTCH! That amounted to; Spec Twin disk clutch, new slave, remote bleeder pilot bearing, and TICK Master Pulling the Torque Tube apart to replace the couplers.

TIRES! Pirelli P Zero tires SUCK HORRIBLY !)

Wheel Hop city sucks! Installed All new tires on CCW 505 rims all new TOYO Proxis T1R tires @ 315/25/19 and C6 ZO6 shocks and that solved that issue!!





Some additional mods:

Patriot stage 2 heads with 12.5:1 compression
Comp Cams 240ish/240ish @114+4 610 lift cam, new gold springs bigger intake valves and Ti retainers.

-I already had a complete Stainless Works 1 3/4 primary SS LT headers, random high flow CATs and the complete 3' mid pipe and cat back system and a VARARAM Intake.


- I hand ported my own FAST 90 and 90 mm TB for some additional air flow.









I now go well past this level of porting on the FAST now as I have learned a few more porting trick and tips on the FAST 90!!

I also ported my own 90mm TB:

Ported 90 mm vs ported LS1/6 TB




I also put C6 ZO6 hardened output shafts, improved spider gear cross shaft, new C6 limited slip clutches and C6 beleivew springs in the differential and added an ECS Trans/Differential brace. Just recently purchased a PFADT differential brace to install!

Check out these post:

- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html


- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966


If you use ANY FAST manifold, your FAST manifold will most likely contact the windshield cowl at the rear of the manifold and or the MAP sensor will have (usually does) have fitment/interference issues. I purchased a MAP relocation kit:





So,, include into you build what you think you need but so far, I HAVE NOT HAD ANY FAILURES AND TRUST ME,, I DRIVE IT hard.

You might need the BUDGET EXPANDER MOD!





-

 

Here is some more interesting stuff and a TONY MAMO link

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-and-cam.html

A lot of head and cam info;

bill

 

See post no. 2