Is my engine shot?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 408
Likes: 5
From: New York
I was planning on unbolting the bell housing from the engine but I can't figure out how to get to all the bolts. I think I'm not getting something. If I unbolt the belhousing the clutch will still go with the engine right?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 408
Likes: 5
From: New York
http://web.archive.org/web/20101210010027/http://www.cajundude.com/engineswap4.htm
im using these instructions. This guy says u don't even have to remove the steering rack. I may try and jack car up more and just drop it out the bottom. I'm almost there.
im using these instructions. This guy says u don't even have to remove the steering rack. I may try and jack car up more and just drop it out the bottom. I'm almost there.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 408
Likes: 5
From: New York
Yeah i I have removed the steering rack twice so I know how to do it but the pain is the two fluid lines going into the rack. If I go out the bottom do i just take of the one bolt and leave everything else?
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 3,534
Likes: 432
From: Atlantic Beach FL.
I see what you are saying now. I thought you were talking about the steering shaft.
You already have the pump off don't you? It all comes out together from the bottom. From the top the rack will be in the way.
You already have the pump off don't you? It all comes out together from the bottom. From the top the rack will be in the way.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 408
Likes: 5
From: New York
Thanks. Yeah Pumps off
Last edited by CharlieC5Z06; Jun 26, 2017 at 06:39 AM.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 535
Likes: 92
From: Raleigh NC
So I recently pulled my motor from the top. I also dropped the TT/trans/diff from the bottom. The challenge is getting enough room to pull the motor forward to clear the input shaft, which is why I dropped the TT.
It's also a good change to inspect your TT couplers, replace the clutch/slave if needed. and if you have the common rear diff leak, address that too.
If pull the motor out the top, you'll also need to lower the front cradle some. I left the bolts on the studs but you'll still have to disconnect the shocks and upper control arms. And make sure you don't over stretched your brake lines... or just pull the calipers off.
Either way, you've got a beast of a job ahead of you. But it's doable. I did all of it by myself in my garage on jackstands.
If you drop the TT/Diff, I bought the little wooded moving dollies on rollers to sit the TT assembly on. Make it MUCH easier to move around.
It's also a good change to inspect your TT couplers, replace the clutch/slave if needed. and if you have the common rear diff leak, address that too.
If pull the motor out the top, you'll also need to lower the front cradle some. I left the bolts on the studs but you'll still have to disconnect the shocks and upper control arms. And make sure you don't over stretched your brake lines... or just pull the calipers off.
Either way, you've got a beast of a job ahead of you. But it's doable. I did all of it by myself in my garage on jackstands.
If you drop the TT/Diff, I bought the little wooded moving dollies on rollers to sit the TT assembly on. Make it MUCH easier to move around.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 408
Likes: 5
From: New York
Thanks for the info. I really dont want to drop the whole drivetrain.
So if I lower the front cradle a little I then will be able to get all the bellhousing bolts out?
Once they are out I slide the engine forward off the TT?
I have an electric hoist attached to the ceiling above the engine so I am guessing I just put some upward tension then slide it forward then either pull it up or drop it down?
I am so not looking forward to putting this all back together.
So if I lower the front cradle a little I then will be able to get all the bellhousing bolts out?
Once they are out I slide the engine forward off the TT?
I have an electric hoist attached to the ceiling above the engine so I am guessing I just put some upward tension then slide it forward then either pull it up or drop it down?
I am so not looking forward to putting this all back together.
So I recently pulled my motor from the top. I also dropped the TT/trans/diff from the bottom. The challenge is getting enough room to pull the motor forward to clear the input shaft, which is why I dropped the TT.
It's also a good change to inspect your TT couplers, replace the clutch/slave if needed. and if you have the common rear diff leak, address that too.
If pull the motor out the top, you'll also need to lower the front cradle some. I left the bolts on the studs but you'll still have to disconnect the shocks and upper control arms. And make sure you don't over stretched your brake lines... or just pull the calipers off.
Either way, you've got a beast of a job ahead of you. But it's doable. I did all of it by myself in my garage on jackstands.
If you drop the TT/Diff, I bought the little wooded moving dollies on rollers to sit the TT assembly on. Make it MUCH easier to move around.
It's also a good change to inspect your TT couplers, replace the clutch/slave if needed. and if you have the common rear diff leak, address that too.
If pull the motor out the top, you'll also need to lower the front cradle some. I left the bolts on the studs but you'll still have to disconnect the shocks and upper control arms. And make sure you don't over stretched your brake lines... or just pull the calipers off.
Either way, you've got a beast of a job ahead of you. But it's doable. I did all of it by myself in my garage on jackstands.
If you drop the TT/Diff, I bought the little wooded moving dollies on rollers to sit the TT assembly on. Make it MUCH easier to move around.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 110
From: Fredericksburg Virginia
Are you talking about the bell housing bolts to the engine? If so, woth heads off you can get them with some ingenuity. I ised an atv jack under the cradle to get enough room below and had the radiator out with all the accessories disconnected and removed of possible. Support TT with jack or jack stand once you are ready to slide motor forward. If an auto trans you need to screw in 2 bolts on the TT before separating the bell housing and motor. Its not that bad but if all original and never been apart you will have to carefully pry to get things moving apart.
Chris
Chris
Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 535
Likes: 92
From: Raleigh NC
I should mention I pulled my motor with the heads off, so that opened up some cowl clearance. I also pulled off all of the front accessories (ps, wp, alternator, etc). I did not have to move the ABS pump or radiator. But again, I had already pulled the TT out, so I didn't need to go forward as much.
I also think you may have a hard time with the electric hoist. typically an engine hoist works better so that you can roll it around (forward/back). The electric hoist on the ceiling is going to be fixed in one place, right?
Worth mentioning... every single bolt that I took out, I put into a zip lock bag and labeled where it went. Every electrical connector that I unplugged, I put a piece of painters tape on it, and labeled where/what it goes too. What seems obvious today, may not be so obvious 2 months from now.
I also think you may have a hard time with the electric hoist. typically an engine hoist works better so that you can roll it around (forward/back). The electric hoist on the ceiling is going to be fixed in one place, right?
Worth mentioning... every single bolt that I took out, I put into a zip lock bag and labeled where it went. Every electrical connector that I unplugged, I put a piece of painters tape on it, and labeled where/what it goes too. What seems obvious today, may not be so obvious 2 months from now.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 408
Likes: 5
From: New York
No I dont have the shop manual. I thought I had a digital copy but cant find it on my computer.
I have the heads off and all accessories are off. Its just a short block with nothing on it except the harmonic balancer.
I was hoping that I could use the cable on the hoist to just be able to move the engine around. Once I get it in the air I will push it over to a dolly. Or if I drop it down ill have a dolly underneath.
I have the heads off and all accessories are off. Its just a short block with nothing on it except the harmonic balancer.
I was hoping that I could use the cable on the hoist to just be able to move the engine around. Once I get it in the air I will push it over to a dolly. Or if I drop it down ill have a dolly underneath.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 408
Likes: 5
From: New York
I almost have it out. I have to where I see the splines coming out of the engine but I couldn't quite get it. Not sure if I had the engine and the Tt lined up just right. It's a pain by urself to keep adjusting and trying to see if you clear everything. I'm gonna have a buddy come over tomorrow night to try and get it out. I literally was able to twist and move the motor by hand as it was hanging on the hoist. Just needed a little more.
Putting this car back together is gonna be a project. Can't wait to see if the block is good or not so I can get to planning my new build. Thanks for all the help
Putting this car back together is gonna be a project. Can't wait to see if the block is good or not so I can get to planning my new build. Thanks for all the help