That is a can of worms. It is way easier on a lift. You may be buying more shop tools.

 

if you plan on staying under 1k rwhp I would just do a set of forged rods/pistons, cam, leave the crank alone, and maybe port the heads... I wouldn't bother with a stroker kit since you have a centrifugal blower, you can make plenty of power on stock cubes without having to change the geometry of the engine

 

Last time it was on the dyno I didn't have the blower cam. I had a huge stage three cam. I also had the p1sc and no meth injection. It put down 585rwhp. If I can get this D1sc to 700rwhp I'll be pumped. That's all I plan on going.

 

Rob is that ur car? How high do u have to get the car?

 

I purchased my car from salvage with a hydro-locked engine. It had a bent connecting rod.

I had jack-stands under the jacking points under jacking pucks. As you can see in the picture on the left, I have 1.5" of wood under the front jack-stands and the rear ones lowered too to cantilever the front bumper high enough to clear the engine. This was very temporary height adjustment. I lowered it prior to raising the engine.

Under the engine cradle is a $99 motorcycle jack from Harbor freight.

 

So jack up front and back as high as I can go Motorcycle jack under engine then drop the front cradle. Then lower reared a little to get engine out from under car?

 

700 is a piece of cake with a d1... you would probably have another solid 100-150rwhp out of that blower, maybe a tad more depending on what fuel you use and how aggressive the tune is... I've seen a few guys right around the 900 mark on a maxed out d1

 

The previous view is the rebuilt engine going in.
Here is another view of the engine coming out.

 

That's what I did. The body is pretty light so I didn't have it off balance with the rolling chassis in.

You lift it in various stages as needed.

I used small jack-stands for the rolling chassis.

 

Does the torque tube drop with it? Do I need to do anything with tranny?

 

The rear is optional. You should be able to lower the engine enough, with the trans pivoting on its mount, to pull the engine forward and off the spline shaft. If so then you will want a small jack-stand to hold the front of the torque tube up.

Keep in mind that when you take the engine out that the car will fall off the jack-stands if you don't have the rear supported.

 

Ok thanks. I took off work tomorrow so I can work on the car. I'm gonna go to harbor freight and either get a motorcycle lift or a hoist that mounts on ceiling. I have four jack stands but might get two more.

 

Even without a stroker? You don't think it's worth it to change to 383 if I'm going to be changing everything else anyway?

 

it can easily be done on a stock cube ls6 or even a 5.3 for that matter... with a cam, headers, enough fuel, and probably around 12psi should do around 700 give or take... personally I'm not a fan of strokers and your crank is fine for what you want to do but it's your call

 

Ok thanks a lot. You are definitely making me research it more.

 

Once you get the engine out - you have literally dozens of options!!

You can get a fully built (forged pistons, forged rods and crank) short block from any number of vendors. Most of these guys keep iron block short blocks on the shelf - but a brand new LS6 blocks are still available and will run about $1,200. These same places will happily build you a short block based on an LS6 block - it will just cost a bit more. You could also choose to move to the LS2 or LS3 blocks which are supposedly a bit stronger - but then a few other things also need to be changed.

You could take your engine to a decent engine builder, he can get the new block, and put together a nice motor with forged 4340 Rods (make sure to spend a couple of extra bucks to use good rod bolts), forged pistons (and if you desire - a forged 4340 crankshaft) and do the balancing, and the assembly work.

You could get a used LS6 or LS1 Block and use that as the basis for the build, but that probably doesn't make sense from a $$$ perspective.

The point I'm trying to make is that you have a lot of options. Before you pull the trigger - do some internet searching, do some searching through this forum, and then make some phone calls or send some E-Mail to some places to see what the various options you like best will cost. Once you have the costs and schedules laid out in front of you - the decision making process should be easier.

One final thing - you had bad cylinders on Both banks. The odds that two head gaskets failed at the same time is low. You pulled the heads off - did you see obvious damage on BOTH head gaskets ??? In my opinion - if you disassemble the old motor, the odds that you will find a cracked piston or a broken ring - particularly with that score in the one cylinder is high - so don't beat yourself up too badly about the bolt tightening...


GOOD LUCK !!!

 

ARP rod bolts all the way!!! Best $100 spent building up the bottom end. The stock bolts are the weakest part of the bottom end.

 

Thanks a lot. Yeah once I get the engine out I'm bringing it to the machine shop. He builds engines for a living and has all the balancing equipment and everything so I'm going to let him build it. I spoke to him today he said first he will inspect my block to see if it's in good shape. If it is then I'll buy a new forged rotating assembly with all near bolts and have him build the lower end for me.

Right now im having a hell of a time trying to get this engine out. I bought a hoist this morning and mounted it on my ceiling above the car. I have almost everything disconnected except a few things in the back and bottom of block that I can't get to that easily. I have my headers unbolted from block but I can't find the one wrench I need to get the long tube headers off the x pipe. Then I have to try and figure out how to lower the cradle and unbolt and remove the torque tube from the engine. I am going to pull it out of the top with the hoist hood is already off. I have to run to store and grab a couple things to try and get these headers out.

 

Dumb question. I'm getting everything disconnected to lift the engine. Does the flywheel and clutch come out with it?

 

Yes.