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The parts list and machine work cost is probably close to a grand but you probably saved a lot trouble shooting and doing the labor your self.
The thing I like about doing it yourself is that you get to personally inspect everything and hand select the parts. If someone else does it you don't know the details and you may not have control over parts selection. Of course there is no warranty but if you do it correctly using quality parts then there shouldn't be a need for one.
Yeah as as long as nothing on the lower engine is wrong then the car should run really good after this.
Originally Posted by Rob 02
The parts list and machine work cost is probably close to a grand but you probably saved a lot trouble shooting and doing the labor your self.
The thing I like about doing it yourself is that you get to personally inspect everything and hand select the parts. If someone else does it you don't know the details and you may not have control over parts selection. Of course there is no warranty but if you do it correctly using quality parts then there shouldn't be a need for one.
Well I messed up big time. Forgot to clean the threads in the block where the headbolts go and I think i cracked the block like 4 times. Looks like I will be looking for a new LS short block.
Well I messed up big time. Forgot to clean the threads in the block where the headbolts go and I think i cracked the block like 4 times. Looks like I will be looking for a new LS short block.
Yeah Im pretty sure. The bolts were going in pretty hard and i thought they were just supposed to go in like that then all of a sudden i would hear a pop and the bolt would then screw in easy. I did that on like 4 bolts. Me rushing and thinking I know what Im doing and not following directions step by step. Bad mistake. Only good thing is that I know get to stroke my engine with forged internals. Looking for a forged assembled short block now.
If you plan on using the current top end I would consider a stroker LS2 engine. It would be something like 402-404 Ci. With your engine stripped down you may be able to pull it out of the top.
Yeah I am def stroking it but I think there is a lot that I have to change if I go with the ls2 right?
Originally Posted by Rob 02
If you plan on using the current top end I would consider a stroker LS2 engine. It would be something like 402-404 Ci. With your engine stripped down you may be able to pull it out of the top.
Assembly is when you really have to take your time and pay attention to detail without distraction (for future reference). You seem like the get-'er-done type which is good for a lot of kinds of work but not engine building where you may need to shift gears and slow down. If one tedious step is skipped or not done exactly then there will be catastrophic failure.
I am not a fan of cast iron engines unless you are planning on drag racing only and putting down over 700Hp. In that case you will have to put down a substantial amount of cash building up the rest of the drive-line.
The iron blocks are heavy and so is the supercharger. Together it will change the handling characteristics of the car.
Yeah I just spoke to the guy who machined my heads and I was picking his brain and he said stick with aluminum. So I think I am going to go with an aluminum ls1/ls6 with a forged 383 stroker.
Thanks, yeah definitely not what i needed right now. I guess thats what happens when you try teaching yourself how to work on cars. You live and you learn.
Originally Posted by lane_viper
I've been following this and want to wish you luck. Sucks when you're so close and you forget something simple, and it costs you a lot.
You'll have it going again in no time. Best Wishes!
if you are interested in a forged motor let me know...I am in FLA but you never know...motor hardly has any miles on it...its coming out of the car as we speak as part of a complete part out...selling it and the maggie separately