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Were you torqueing the head bolts when they popped? My question for you is, did you get any debris into the bolt holes? Also, was there any liquid in there? If not, I'd really check to see if in fact you cracked the block. Usually when a hole is not chased, it would only affect the actual torque unless some debris or liquid is introduced. At least that has been my experience.
Yeah definitely some liquid in there. I completely screwed up and didnt get the coolant out of it. It happened before I torqued it. Then after it popped it started spinning easier till it went all the way down and then i started torqueing it.
Originally Posted by Carl Timonen
Were you torqueing the head bolts when they popped? My question for you is, did you get any debris into the bolt holes? Also, was there any liquid in there? If not, I'd really check to see if in fact you cracked the block. Usually when a hole is not chased, it would only affect the actual torque unless some debris or liquid is introduced. At least that has been my experience.
I just got off the phone with Blueprint Engines and they said that there 383 strokers based are based of the 1970s engines and it wont work for an LS based car. Is this true? Im so confused right now.
I just got off the phone with Blueprint Engines and they said that there 383 strokers based are based of the 1970s engines and it wont work for an LS based car. Is this true? Im so confused right now.
The first gen engines are completely different than the 3rd gen LS based engines.
I'd pull the bolts, look them over to check for moisture or grease. Sometimes a small spot of grease will pop when pressure builds up before release of captured air. You also might try to fill up the suspected holes with kerosene or something similar and let them sit to see if the level goes down. A little detective work might save you a lot of time and money. Either way it goes, good luck.
Oh, btw how much pressure were you exerting when this happened?
Thanks. I'm pulling the bolts now. There was a decent amount of pressure. Not like I was straining to torque it to 75ft lbs but decent pressure.
Originally Posted by Carl Timonen
I'd pull the bolts, look them over to check for moisture or grease. Sometimes a small spot of grease will pop when pressure builds up before release of captured air. You also might try to fill up the suspected holes with kerosene or something similar and let them sit to see if the level goes down. A little detective work might save you a lot of time and money. Either way it goes, good luck.
Oh, btw how much pressure were you exerting when this happened?
Ok so I pulled one head off. I sprayed air in there and some coolant came out. I grinned two edges of an old bolt and threaded it in and out. It was coated with the apr anti seeze stuff that u put on the bolts. It was liquidy from the coolant. Have no clue now how to tell if anything is cracked
Originally Posted by CharlieC5Z06
Thanks. I'm pulling the bolts now. There was a decent amount of pressure. Not like I was straining to torque it to 75ft lbs but decent pressure.
From another forum. "You may, or may not have a problem. It is not uncommon, perhaps even normal, to hear popping when torquing the head bolts. It is particularly likely when using ARP head bolts. As others have said however, if there is residual coolant at the bottom of the holes you can crack the block. Unless there is a lot of residual coolantyou would not hear that pop until the last few threads. Finally, having the coolant drain quickly from the holes is not conclusive evidence that you have cracked the block because there are instances in which the head bolt holes can intersect with holes drilled horizonally from the back of the block."
mine popped way before I got close to the last thread. Torqued down fine. I might be ok.
Well on another note. Since I had the heads off again I wanted to double check the cylinder walls and one piston was at top dead center. So I turned the crankshaft and when that piston went down I saw this. It's a straight line in the cylinder I can just catch it with my fingernail? Is the ring messed up?
That was supposed to have been checked earlier in the diagnosis.
If you skip one step in the building process your going to have trouble.
That could be caused by a lot of things. That piston has a marking on it too.
Was that one of the cylinders that measured good?
Was it the one with the broken valve seal?
Yeah i I definitely rushed trying to get the car back on the road. I'm just glad I checked before I put it all back together and have the same blow by issue. I don't know if it was the one with the bad seal but i do know that it was one that had low pressure.
I think what I'm going to do is take out the engine and bring it to my machinist and have him check it out to see if it's fixable. Then if it's ok I'll have him balance and install a rotating assembly and put the whole engine together.
Yeah i I definitely rushed trying to get the car back on the road. I'm just glad I checked before I put it all back together and have the same blow by issue. I don't know if it was the one with the bad seal but i do know that it was one that had low pressure.
I think what I'm going to do is take out the engine and bring it to my machinist and have him check it out to see if it's fixable. Then if it's ok I'll have him balance and install a rotating assembly and put the whole engine together.
Then you will basically have an engine that is new built specifically for your application.
Adding cubic inched will increase your compression ratio and require a tune. They might even be able to install the engine for you.