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It slides in tight from the other direction SO,, I would just un-bolt the other end and bump the prop shaft assy out as normal and just assist that bearing back into and through its hole. Please take pictures of what you find.
I would take a very close look at the condition of that PILOT BEARING! REPLACE IT!!
Well got the two separated, I was thinking my car had the bolt together torque tube but I was wrong, now I’ve got to either source to larger snap ring pliers or take a different approach, so I’m figuring that out as of this post.
Hard to believe she was driving fine right up until she wasn’t, something in the tube I’m guessing had to bind up and when it did, Well you see the results.
Last edited by skydiven4fun; Oct 9, 2017 at 10:32 PM.
When I first saw that front bearing poke out, my first thought was that the coupler bolts backed out or broke.
Yep, that was a surprise. What condition was the other coupler in????
NOTE! Do NOT CHEEP OUT on a replacement coupler!!!! Get a GM Part ONLY or an aftermarket that is KNOWN to actually work!! DO NOT get a DORMAN JUNK Coupler!!!!
Definitely not taking any short cuts, the second coupling has some minor cracks here and there, but for it’s age looks pretty good, I’m still taken back on why one was destroyed compared to the other, there was nothing I mean nothing left of the rear coupling.
I’m having a tough time getting the prop shaft out, going to try again tomorrow, just hope I don’t damage it during removal.
That big snap ring wasn’t too bad to remove, once I took a cutting wheel and made a couple of grooves in some old needle nose
I've had too many stacked blocks of wood slide on each other to trust them without fastening them together.
If you want to use wood, then make 2x4 cribbing with lots of screws holding the wood all together.
Don't want to take the thread on a tangent but do want to clarify I use 12" X 12" wood blocks. Stack them like the boatyards, which we have a lot of locally.
Don't want to take the thread on a tangent but do want to clarify I use 12" X 12" wood blocks. Stack them like the boatyards, which we have a lot of locally.
Yes, I understood you used larger blocks. Saying stacked like a boatyard is a little vague. I've seen lots of simple stacks under boats, heck even blocks on their ends down each side of the boat.
But, I believe you're saying to make cribbing out of them. To do it right you need at least 4" of overhang and no finish of any kind on the wood either. Two properly built cribbing stacks for each side of the car would take up most of the space between the wheels to get them under the rockers.
Well the more I tear into to it the worse it’s looking, I’m starting to really wonder if rebuilding this tube it gonna be a risk I don’t want to take, the snubber is in pretty bad shape as is the front of the tube where the bearing seats, my bIggest concern is everything being out of balance.
That's just an o-ring so it should be ok after replacing. The snubber is worse indicating the shaft was whipping at high rpm a fair bit.
Yeah I was on it pretty hard when everything came apart, and I imagine when that front coupling came apart and the prop shaft bearing came out the front that it definitely moved in ways it wasn't supposed too, it's really weird though cause when all this happened there was not any vibration or a hint that this was happening, other than the clutch pedal falling to the floor.
I'm wondering if the snubber being ate up like it is would be enough to cause an out of balance when put back together
Last edited by skydiven4fun; Oct 22, 2017 at 05:38 PM.
Yeah there was nothing left, I was fortunate enough to source a 2003 C5Z torque tube with low mileage, I was really Leary about rebuilding mine, The fact that it was such an explosive event (at least inside the tube) I just felt better going to a more robust tube that hasn't been through such an event, Im not making the kind of power that many cars are but being around 650 RWHP I just am trying to improve everything I can as I go along.
New Torque tube arrived and was packed to perfection, I’ve yet to disassemble this tube, but there is 0 end play in the prop shaft, I am impressed with the sellers description and the way the deal was handled.
I’m slowly putting pieces together, installed new tie rod ends, changing all fluids and cleaning everything. I’m on the down hill side now so hope to be driving again soon.
Last edited by skydiven4fun; Oct 19, 2017 at 09:58 PM.
FYI, it's OK if the input shaft can be moved side to side a little or shows a little bit of wobble when the shaft is spun. The pilot bearing does provide the second bearing support and hold it centered once installed.
FYI, it's OK if the input shaft can be moved side to side a little or shows a little bit of wobble when the shaft is spun. The pilot bearing does provide the second bearing support and hold it centered once installed.
Thanks for the info, But Man this one when I say 0 play I mean ZERO its tight as Dick's hat band OR well never mind I'm getting carried away
Last edited by skydiven4fun; Oct 19, 2017 at 05:17 PM.
I was fortunate enough to have Bill PM me his phone number and I used it today cause I was having issues building pressure with my hydraulics, Bill's input solved the issues within minutes.
So, with the new shaft in possession and going in, have you decided what you're doing with the old one? I imagine more than a few of us wouldn't mind thinking about a box of parts...
So, with the new shaft in possession and going in, have you decided what you're doing with the old one? I imagine more than a few of us wouldn't mind thinking about a box of parts...
There are definitively parts available, if anyone needs them.