Well my slave took a dump, I’m running a Mcleod RXT with less than 8000 miles on it, never raced, so I’m pretty sure it’s gonna be fine, but I’ll inspect it and do some other maintenance while she’s up in the air.
Right now I’ve got her 21.5 inches in the air and I think I’ll be fine, but take a look at how She’s sitting and if anyone has any input or recommendations please jump in.

 

Ive don't this on my 02 Z.

HIGHLY recommend removing the Trans/DIFF from the TT, and then the TT from the Bell.

Unless you have clutch work to do, that as far as you need to go.

INSPECT THE PILOT BEARING! Even if its good, I would put some high pressure high temp synthetic grease inside on the roller bearings to insure that the little rollers stay in place.

Don't know how your clutch works before the slave issue but AS always, I would check the critical slave cylinder measurements just to know what they are..

You already have a remote bleeder,, CORRECT???

That height looks OK. I went a little higher using truck stands.

Bill

 

Hi Bill, Thanks for the input, Clutch was fine till the slave took a dump, I was driving along one day went to shift and the clutch pedal just fell to the floor, got the car home and took the master cylinder cap off and 0 fluid, poured a little in and it went straight through, after looking for fluid it was obvious what gave way, About a week or two prior I had noticed some funny noises coming from the clutch area which sounded like a throw out bearing, so I kinda knew it was coming, Stephen at Englandgreen installed the clutch and other items and other than the recent noise from the TB everything was fine, I do have the remote bleeder already installed.

I have read several threads and it seems that most go back with the GM performance slave, I don't race the car so shes always held up pretty good, I started hearing the throw out bearing noise not long after going to stickier tires (added stress I'm guessing)

Thanks for the advice on separating the tranny/torque tube, I was gonna try to remove as one item before, I just picked up the 4, 6 ton jack stands so I can come up around another 4 inches or so if I need to.
I'm not in any hurry and plan to have the car in the air for several weeks and take my time.
I am going to document everything and add to this thread as I go in case it can help someone else down the road.

 

Take the pucks out from between the stands and the cross member. Set it down so that a couple of the edges on the cross member are between the teeth of the stand. At the rockers. turn the stands 90* and put one of the teeth into the tie down hole so the stands can't slip out. Last thing you want is something between the car and the stand that could let the car shift on the stands.

 

The pucks have had me little nervous, one has already started to deform some, BUT I was trying to keep from screwing up the sub frame.
Thanks, I appreciate the input

 

loose the pucks on the cross member put a 2x6 between the cross member and jack stands will be more solid

 

My jack stands sit DIRECTLY on the K member and I have never damaged it or had any issues with stability. Matter fact, it fits nicely on my truck jack stands. I also use the stands to support the car on the frame pads with out issue.

BC

 

If you are only replacing the slave and the pilot bearing, I used two transmission stands to roll mine out of the clutch once the motor and all was supported. If you don't change the transmission jacks and just do the work, the torque tube will maintain the correct angle and should slide right back in.

I don't like jack stands for this, I prefer solid wood blocks like they use in the local boatyards.

 

Jack stands right under the crossmember will be more solid than it will be with anything else put between the jack stand and the vehicle. Wood shouldn't move but you can never know for sure until it's too late. Someone I know was recently killed when their truck fell on them. Don't become another statistic.

I bolted 2 aluminum bars along the length of my frame just inside the rockers. I can both jack on them and put jack stands under them. Much safer having an aluminum bar sitting in the V of the jack stand then having a soft hockey puck there.

I would only use hockey pucks on the top of hoist pads since the hoist pads are flat and large enough that the puck sits solidly on top. They can work on floor jack pads too if the jack pad doesn't contact the rocker where it cups around the puck.

 

is there a reason you didnt put the jack stands under the cross beam adapter? to make you feel safer you can put your wheels under the rotors so if the jack stands fail it falls on the wheels. unlikely the jack stands will fail but earth quakes do happen.

 

My current floor jack is at its limit, so The car is still sitting as the pics above, BUT I am waiting on a new larger jack to arrive either today or tomorrow, At that point I plan to remove the pads and drop her on the jacks only, I have placed my wheels under the car and wont be under her till these changes are made. I am still on crutches from a recent leg surgery so I am not in a rush.
Thanks for all the great input everyone

 

hope recovery go's well...

when i need my car up higher i use a 4x4 block on top of my jack not the best solution but has worked many times for me

 

Thanks Stroker, Im getting there, Like stated earlier, Im not in a rush, Ive actually got a young neighbor friend of ours that just bought his first performance car (Subaru WRX) really nice ride BUT a generation or two away from what makes me happy, But he loves cars and his father
is light years away, So Ive been helping him as much as I can, and to be honest he's got a LOT Did I say A LOT of my tools at his house , but he's a great kid, so if all goes well sometime this week I will have everything back in order and can finish my ride.
What a great group of Vette owners we have here, everyone is always ready to help.

Thanks again

 

I put my jackstands under the leaf spring, with their little pads.

 

Vettenuts does it the way I used to. I have a big stack of square 2x8's and a hockey puck at the top. Then the car rests on the frame at the oval holeswhere you have your jackstands

With that setup, you don't get the jackstand wiggle, AND you can drop the whole drivetrain; crossmember attached to the trans/diff. You need two trans jacks (one on the cross member, one on the torquetube) and once you get the trans diff just low enough to clear the tub in the trunk, the whole enchilada can slide back for slave/clutch servicing.

You also need to support the engine right behing its cradle; another stack of 2x8's is fine for this with maybe a thinner board to get the right height.

 

I've had too many stacked blocks of wood slide on each other to trust them without fastening them together.

If you want to use wood, then make 2x4 cribbing with lots of screws holding the wood all together.

 

Well I’ve got the drivetrain out, I won’t say is was uneventful though, everything went smooth up till it was time to drop the Tranny/Torque tube, the suspension came out easy enough, but for some reason after I had the torque tube about 3/4 of an inch away from the bell housing it was like it was either stuck or froze, it was not binding on anything and you could push up and down on the front of the tube pretty easy, anyway after several hours of wrestling with it she finally popped out like it was nothing.
After getting everything on the ground I noticed that the bearing in the front of the torque tube had pulled out the front, I’m figuring that while I was wrestling the tube forwards and backwards it must have popped out cause there are no scars on it that would hint it having been driven like this.
Anyway on to cleaning up and picking up getting organized again then I’ll start my list, I plan to either rebuild or replace the torque tube so if anyone has a line on a good used one please me.

 

Something is VERY wrong with that bearing and its retention!!


Bill

 

Examine the very last set of pictures in this post: That bearing should come out the OTHER WAY......

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...questions.html

Take that TT apart and see what is wrong.

Bill

 

Hey Bill,

Yeah I knew there was something amiss, I am now wondering if I am going to be able to disassemble the tube without tearing it up beyond repair, (maybe cut the bearing off or trying to pop it back through Im not sure what happened, Like I had said before the car drove fine right till it failed.
any suggestions short of just purchasing another tube ?

Isn't there a snap ring that should not let it move forward ? needles to say the shaft has a whole lot of play in it

Fixing to start dismantling

Thanks