engine swap question
Last edited by wolf10851; May 12, 2019 at 03:04 PM.
Sounds like you already did the math. While I can't answer if it's a DIRECT swap I'm gonna bet that it won't be much of a hassle even if a few specific parts still need changing.
Brand new by GM, makes quite a bit more horsepower and torque.
However they cost $7000.00 at least, plus need some conversion parts to make it work in C5.
I've always understood LS1 block can't be bored out, liners are too thin, max of .0010?
Now, on the LS3 swap, I've read some get trouble codes when going WOT (pedal floored) due to the knock sensors being different/or being located on outside of engine vs inside like the LS1.
I'm trying to figure out how others fix this issue, I want a crate LS3 for my 1999 vert 6 speed, and my LS1 runs excellent, just want more power, plus hand-me-down the LS1 into my 1965 Chevy C10 pickup. Win win for both C5 and C10.
Is your C5 automatic or manual?
Brand new by GM, makes quite a bit more horsepower and torque.
However they cost $7000.00 at least, plus need some conversion parts to make it work in C5.
I've always understood LS1 block can't be bored out, liners are too thin, max of .0010?
Now, on the LS3 swap, I've read some get trouble codes when going WOT (pedal floored) due to the knock sensors being different/or being located on outside of engine vs inside like the LS1.
I'm trying to figure out how others fix this issue, I want a crate LS3 for my 1999 vert 6 speed, and my LS1 runs excellent, just want more power, plus hand-me-down the LS1 into my 1965 Chevy C10 pickup. Win win for both C5 and C10.
Is your C5 automatic or manual?
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
This engine is had better cylinder heads, camshaft, and intake, and a better block for high RPM breathing in the crankcase.
In 2001 regular Corvettes and LS1 Camaro and Trans Ams, the LS6 intake came on LS1 engines, most likely to keep from having 2 intakes, they just used the updated better design LS6 intake on all LS engines.
Also, the same years 2001-2004, all LS1 engines got the LS6 block, just like the LS6 intakes.
The LS6 intake probably adds 5hp, but with modifications to engine like performance camshaft and headers, the LS6 helps the engine make more power as it breathes better.
So, if you found a good used/and or rebuilt LS1, if it's complete with intake, it "should" have the LS6 intake, but they look a lot alike from the top, someone could have swapped it for a LS1 intake, so don't just assume.
Say you get the good 2001 LS1 and it has the LS6 intake, you could probably get by without doing a tune, but for $150.00 you can mail your ECM to East Coast supercharging and they will do a mail order tune on it.
This is a good time to add long tube headers if you want extra performance, while swapping engine, while getting a updated better tune.
I just worry if you have a automatic transmission with 200k, even on stock LS1, it could go out.
Now I'll say this, and normally I wouldn't think this way, as I do my own wrenching.
It might be easier and cheaper in the long run to just buy another C5 that is in nice shape with lower miles.
Think of engine swap prices, transmission rebuild.
Look at used C5 prices.
The fact you are paying others to do the work, another low mileage (under 100k) C5 might just be the way to go.
Then sell your C5 to someone who likes to wrench on their own stuff, not sure what you could get, say if you sold it for 5000, you might come out ahead.
Lots to think over.
Last edited by 1999corvettels1; May 12, 2019 at 03:46 PM.





so it is a manual trans. Also a couple of years ago I upgraded it to an rpm trans
as for buying another one well I have done a lot of upgrades to this one so all that stuff would have to be swapped over and I have no idea the true condition of a used one. Not to mention a certain sentimental value to this one as it is my first Vette and it was always my dream car so buying a new one is not in the picture for me. Also I do wrench on my vette but right now I dont have space to do a motor swap and as for going internally to the engine well that to be honest scares me lol
Last edited by wolf10851; May 12, 2019 at 03:55 PM.
Here in the Phoenix area on emissions test, they plug into the OBD 2 port, and it checks the cars systems, either ready or not ready.
Now, when I got my C5 back on road after being parked over 4 years, I failed the test because the C5 systems were not ready, because I put in a new battery.
I had 2 options, either go drive lots hoping the systems self check themselves and report ready, or they put it on the Dyno which is normally for OBD 1 1995 and older cars and motorcycles.
They let me do the Dyno with sniffer in exhaust test because, I couldn't get car registered until it passed emissions test, and it needed possibly hundreds of miles of driving to get the systems to be ready and report everything is ok.
Can't be driving around in a unregistered car, the DMV gives a 3 day temporarily permit, to only be used to drive to emissions test, DMV, or auto repair shop, only in normal business hours, no driving at night.
My C5 passed the sniffer test, and I still only payed the original fee, 18 bucks?
I'm due again and will probably go Tuesday.
Bought car in California, but moved away before tests needed.
How do they do the emissions test there now?
I remember these expensive test called Smog 2, and people having to pay 300 bucks, I usually got my other cars tested for under 100 dollars in late 1990s until 2004.
Sniffer and Dyno, or just plug into OBD 2 under dash?
Last edited by 1999corvettels1; May 12, 2019 at 04:03 PM.
If you get the one with the stock cam it should pass sniffer test.
If they check OBD 2, all should be the same?
Maybe I'm missing something.
Don't have LS3 fuel rail covers, put LS1 covers on, or leave off. Lol
Now the crate LS3 makes the most sense, you have a RPM built T56, you don't wanna get rid of car, can't run cam and headers, the LS3 should be a nice upgrade in power, will be fresh and have a good warranty.
That's it, you need crate LS3, unless someone can tell me how smog check place will know.
Cart
Home ›Don't Worry, They Aren't that Bad: CALIFORNIA SMOG LAWS
Don't Worry, They Aren't that Bad: CALIFORNIA SMOG LAWS
DONT WORRY, THEY AREN'T THAT BAD!
Due to some misinformation, and exaggeration; people across the country think the California style smog laws are the end of engine swaps. Even in California, many automotive enthusiasts believe it is against the law to perform engine swaps.The basic intent of the California engine change laws is that when you do an engine swap, the new engine/transmission cannot pollute more than the original engine/transmission. This means the newly installed engine must be the same year (or newer) as the vehicle, and all emissions controls on the newly installed engine must be installed and functional. Also, you can't put a heavy-duty truck engine (over 6000 lb GVW) into an S-10 Truck because heavy-duty truck engines have less stringent emissions limits than light-duty trucks.
To get your engine swap approved, you must go to a Referee Station. The Referee Inspection is less than $40, and it is a benefit for people who do smog-legal engine changes because the engine change can be approved on a visual inspection, current smog laws, and common sense.
The Referee Station will visually inspect the vehicle and engine/transmission for all the proper smog equipment, and inspect the engine to be sure it is the same year (or newer) as the vehicle. If all is there, they will put an "Engine Identification"tag in the door jamb. The "Engine Identification"tag is not mentioned on any registration papers or ownership papers. It is only on the vehicle.
If your vehicle does not pass the visual inspection, and you feel it should, you can have the Referee Inspector call the engineering office for a ruling. If the engineering office fails your vehicle and you think it should pass, you can always run it through the California Air Resources Board (CARB) for a full Federal Test Procedure (FTD), but that can cost you several thousand dollars, and your vehicle may still fail. Remember, the Referee Inspection program is a benefit for people who do engine swaps.
Cart
Home ›Don't Worry, They Aren't that Bad: CALIFORNIA SMOG LAWS
Don't Worry, They Aren't that Bad: CALIFORNIA SMOG LAWS
DONT WORRY, THEY AREN'T THAT BAD!
Due to some misinformation, and exaggeration; people across the country think the California style smog laws are the end of engine swaps. Even in California, many automotive enthusiasts believe it is against the law to perform engine swaps.The basic intent of the California engine change laws is that when you do an engine swap, the new engine/transmission cannot pollute more than the original engine/transmission. This means the newly installed engine must be the same year (or newer) as the vehicle, and all emissions controls on the newly installed engine must be installed and functional. Also, you can't put a heavy-duty truck engine (over 6000 lb GVW) into an S-10 Truck because heavy-duty truck engines have less stringent emissions limits than light-duty trucks.
To get your engine swap approved, you must go to a Referee Station. The Referee Inspection is less than $40, and it is a benefit for people who do smog-legal engine changes because the engine change can be approved on a visual inspection, current smog laws, and common sense.
The Referee Station will visually inspect the vehicle and engine/transmission for all the proper smog equipment, and inspect the engine to be sure it is the same year (or newer) as the vehicle. If all is there, they will put an "Engine Identification"tag in the door jamb. The "Engine Identification"tag is not mentioned on any registration papers or ownership papers. It is only on the vehicle.
If your vehicle does not pass the visual inspection, and you feel it should, you can have the Referee Inspector call the engineering office for a ruling. If the engineering office fails your vehicle and you think it should pass, you can always run it through the California Air Resources Board (CARB) for a full Federal Test Procedure (FTD), but that can cost you several thousand dollars, and your vehicle may still fail. Remember, the Referee Inspection program is a benefit for people who do engine swaps.





https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...cam-specs.html





You would need to use your OEM exhaust manifolds and mid pipe as the 2001 is much different configuration wise than yours. The 2000 and 2001 exhaust manifolds are different at the outlets and will NOT connect to your 2000 LS1 mid pipe. If you got the mid pipe from the 2001, you would be all set!!!
You will need to use your old 2001 A.I R. system piping as it connects to a different location on the exhaust manifold, The oil dip stick is different on the 2001. (use your old stick and tube). The steam vent piping under the intake manifold is different but that should be transparent and not an issue. I cant remember if the 2001 PCV system pluming changed to the simpler system on the LS1 engine or if its the same as your more complex plumbing that runs behind the intake manifold.
That's about all that I can think is different. If you have specific questions, let me know. I added a 2002 head, intake and exhaust manifold to a 2000 a few years ago. Had a good time converting it over. Lots of lessons learned!
Bill
Bill










