When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a fairly stock c5 with no mufflers and some other exhaust stuff done, and a cold air intake. I am considering a 228r cam. My questions are... 1. How much will this affect reliability, I am currently at 30k miles will I still make it past 100k with the cam....2. What lsa? I was thinking 110 or 112 I want it to sound rowdy.....3. What other mods need to be done to increase reliability? I'm not too concerned about hp.
Last edited by C5vette4lifee; Jul 18, 2021 at 02:19 AM.
Sounding rowdy vs BEING rowdy ... I'd go for actual power. E.g. I'd go for more duration before a lower lsa. Or both, lol.
While you're in there?
Upgraded timing chain. Not just LS2.
Your oil pump and water pump ought to be fine at just 30k, but now is the time if you think a high pressure (not high volume) pump could be good.
New front main seal.
Aftermarket hub balancer (since you're in there and asking about 100k life, this is a must)
And depending on your funds, you can do this at the same time or later but new springs for sure and I'd recommend replacing the trunions with Straub or Che bushing kit (not Comp).
I have a fairly stock c5 with no mufflers and some other exhaust stuff done, and a cold air intake. I am considering a 228r cam. My questions are... 1. How much will this affect reliability, I am currently at 30k miles will I still make it past 100k with the cam....2. What lsa? I was thinking 110 or 112 I want it to sound rowdy.....3. What other mods need to be done to increase reliability? I'm not too concerned about hp.
The 112 will sound plenty "rowdy" and will be easier to tune all else being equal.
The 112 will sound plenty "rowdy" and will be easier to tune all else being equal.
I agree. I'd also like to add this for the OP:
Do NOT get a higher pressure oil pump, PERIOD. The stock LS motors have plenty of pressure. There's too much oil going through the LS motors as it is. All a high pressure pump does is push more oil through the stock bearing clearances, and waste horsepower. If you go with an aftermarket oil pump, go with a Melling Hi Volume, NOT Hi pressure!! A high volume, stock pressure pump won't pump any more oil through the motor than a stock pump, if bearing clearances are the same for each. What a Hi Volume pump will do is recover oil pressure quicker should high g-forces cause it to cavitate, and it will also maintain stock pressure even as bearing clearances increase as the miles pile up. What the Hi Volume pump won't do is pump your pan dry, with stock bearing clearances. I've run a Melling Hi Volume pump for over 15 years, and never pumped my pan dry, including one standing start to 160+mph run. Hope this helps.....
In the autocross / road racing forum you'll find the opposite advice about oil pumps. At high RPM you pull oil from the pan faster, but it still takes just as much time for oil to return to the pan after doing its job in the bearings and up in the heads. And with high cornering forces, you increase the risk of the pickup running dry because the oil in the pan sloshes to the sides. LS3 and LS7 are much more prone to that problem[1] but the LS1/6 are not immune. I went with a high pressure pump.
Rowdy sound comes from two things: overlap and tuning. I had a 232/234 @ 112 cam, which had 9 degrees of overlap. The 228/228 @ 110 would have 8 degrees of overlap. The idle was rough enough that you could tell there was a cam in it, but there are tons of videos online of cams with less overlap and much more chop/lope. My car also surges in first gear under 1500 RPM, though I did hear from one guy who said his car didn't surge with the same cam, so tuning is probably a factor there too.
I felt like the driveability issues were a fair price to pay for the extra power, but if you don't, then you want less overlap. 228/228 @ 112 has 4 degrees of overlap, so driveability should be pretty good. You can make it idle as rough as you want by lowering the idle RPM or by playing around with the tables that adjust spark timing to maintain idle RPM.
I have a hunch that you could make the stock cam lope and chop if you wanted it to, but I'll admit that I haven't tried.
In the autocross / road racing forum you'll find the opposite advice about oil pumps. At high RPM you pull oil from the pan faster, but it still takes just as much time for oil to return to the pan after doing its job in the bearings and up in the heads. And with high cornering forces, you increase the risk of the pickup running dry because the oil in the pan sloshes to the sides. LS3 and LS7 are much more prone to that problem[1] but the LS1/6 are not immune. I went with a high pressure pump.
I guess I respectfully disagree. These engines need no 'extra' oil pressure. As for the high volume, the stock pressure can only pump "x" amount of oil past the bearings, thru the lifters, etc. A Hi Volume, stock pressure pump can't pump any more oil thru the engine than a stock pump if the pressure is identical with the same clearances. If you're gonna run a hi pressure/hi volume pump, which Melling sells, then I agree with you. I'll bet money that the majority, if not all the dry pans were from a combo hi pressure AND hi volume pump.
I never once based what camshaft I used on what the engine sounded like after I installed it. A big, lopey idle doesn't mean much in the grand scheme of performance.
I never once based what camshaft I used on what the engine sounded like after I installed it. A big, lopey idle doesn't mean much in the grand scheme of performance.
I respect your opinion but I'm not the only one to install a aftermarket cam for the sound.. there's literally a cam called chop monster which states in the description that it was designed for the sound. I actually am considering that cam too but it's bigger than the 228r so I don't know.
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Originally Posted by C5vette4lifee
I respect your opinion but I'm not the only one to install a aftermarket cam for the sound.. there's literally a cam called chop monster which states in the description that it was designed for the sound. I actually am considering that cam too but it's bigger than the 228r so I don't know.
I would make sure you can still pass your emissions test if you have to have it tested
Sounding rowdy vs BEING rowdy ... I'd go for actual power. E.g. I'd go for more duration before a lower lsa. Or both, lol.
While you're in there?
Upgraded timing chain. Not just LS2.
Your oil pump and water pump ought to be fine at just 30k, but now is the time if you think a high pressure (not high volume) pump could be good.
New front main seal.
Aftermarket hub balancer (since you're in there and asking about 100k life, this is a must)
And depending on your funds, you can do this at the same time or later but new springs for sure and I'd recommend replacing the trunions with Straub or Che bushing kit (not Comp).
do you know anything about the bfd cam by chance. I was also looking into that.
Never heard of it. But cams, despite being quite complex in design, are rather simple for the layman at our end to understand. X duration and LSA = Y power band. That power band is only then further advanced or retarded by displacement unless you add positive manifold pressure.
I did just look it up.... 108 LSA? I mean, by all means go ahead, but its not for me - and I have ran some pretty radical cams in the past. Lope for lope's sake does not appeal. That's like stance on rice burners to me. If the car is a dedicated track car or Saturday night only, ok sure. If you're using it for anything else at all - I'd not go for it. But it's a style choice.
If your in Ca. your not going to pass with a choppy cam, It just depends on what your state does
If he's in Ca., he will no longer pass if any tune is done to the PCM, even if it's got the stock cam in it!! Our Government..... I recommend reading Hib Halverson's article in the C6 Tech section about "Tuners in Ca., are now F---ed". It's scary, trust me......
Last edited by grinder11; Jul 19, 2021 at 09:01 AM.
I never once based what camshaft I used on what the engine sounded like after I installed it. A big, lopey idle doesn't mean much in the grand scheme of performance.
You are absolutely correct about the big, lopey idle not meaning much. I've personally seen stock C5 Z06's just wipe out nasty sounding cars at the strip, most of which were running the original SBC. Couldn't even hear the Z06, only the 'nasty sounding Chevelle, 'Cuda, etc.!!
But how are the ecu's being scanned? Are they actually checking what settings are IN the tunes, or are they just running a checksum to verify file name, date, and size... All of which can be artificially altered?
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Originally Posted by grinder11
If he's in Ca., he will no longer pass if any tune is done to the PCM, even if it's got the stock cam in it!! Our Government..... I recommend reading Hib Halverson's article in the C6 Tech section about "Tuners in Ca., are now F---ed". It's scary, trust me......
I know they are worried I talked to A&A the other day
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Originally Posted by Tusc
But how are the ecu's being scanned? Are they actually checking what settings are IN the tunes, or are they just running a checksum to verify file name, date, and size... All of which can be artificially altered?
They must have developed a program that compares the stock tune to your tune
The 228r will give you the best all around performance, wont loose reliability/drivability but its a vast improvement over stock. You can run a dumpster fire or even a BFD and get that chop but it will drive like ****. The 228r is more of a burbble.