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Can I still syphon this from the filler, or just catch it from below with a drip pan? Thanks Mr. Black!
I've never tried syphoning but I'd be skeptical. I just use a large mouth funnel into a gas can with the car jacked up around 15" in the air. It can be messy for sure. Just use common sense and be careful.
Again to Course, Soft stiff brush. The thing is electronic wiper very fragile and the Wire wrapping is special wire should be treated as such.
A good stiff camel hair brush cut nice and short so it stiff and a little Carb cleaner is all it takes to clean the gum off the wires and wiper be gentle your dealing with electronic components not an engine block.
Will do, with extinguisher handy... thanks again!
I'll post an update tomorrow.
Brad-in-STL
EVERYONE should have an extinguisher in their home, AND garage!! I have an extinguisher in my garage. Always have, at least since I oil primed a Gen1 SBC in a 1985 IROC-Z. Who knew oil pressure would trigger the TPI fuel pump. With the battery connected (a definite no-no!). With no key in the ignition. Of course, the fuel line wasn't connected yet. Of course, it was in a 1960s garage that had the natural gas water heater in the garage. Of course, I had no extinguisher. Lesson learned. I got the fire out with large bath towels. Luckily, nothing burned, including me. But an extinguisher has resided in any garage I've owned ever since.
EVERYONE should have an extinguisher in their home, AND garage!! I have an extinguisher in my garage. .... But an extinguisher has resided in any garage I've owned ever since.
grinder, not trying to be a topper, but I totaled my previous house working on the fuel system on my Ducati... preaching to the choir here! I would only add to make sure to buy a big one. The extinguisher I had on hand that day was not nearly big enough. Thanks be to God no one was injured.
Anyway... halfway through the task. Hopefully the hard half. Struggled over an hour to get the three fuel lines off.
More to follow.
PS... the only fuel that came out was in the pump housing, so driving it down to less than 30 miles RANGE (on the CID) remaining is HIGHLY recommended !!
Last edited by Brad-in-STL; Dec 20, 2022 at 06:55 PM.
grinder, not trying to be a topper, but I totaled my previous house working on the fuel system on my Ducati... preaching to the choir here! I would only add to make sure to buy a big one. The extinguisher I had on hand that day was not nearly big enough. Thanks be to God no one was injured.
Anyway... halfway through the task. Hopefully the hard half. Struggled over an hour to get the three fuel lines off.
More to follow.
PS... the only fuel that came out was in the pump housing, so driving it down to less than 30 miles RANGE remaining is HIGHLY recommended !!
Wow... haven't seen this since I bought the car!
Totally worth it!
Congrats on getting that out of the way.
I went almost 3 years with mine malfunctioning due to various and multiple problems some of which were self induced. Thankfully mine works now as well for the past 3 months. More than anything else besides having quantity I am so happy to be rid of the annoying check gauges gong and red light on the dash lol.
Also I want to say to anyone that may happen across this thread, if you happen to have HP tuners or anything powerful scanner than can read the tank voltage PIDs left and right it is way easier to troubleshoot seeing the voltages real time in both tanks. Even better than relying on codes IMO.
Thanks Mr. Black. That CHECK GAUGES was a PITA to put up with!
The two items that took me the longest to sort out were removing the three lines and lining up the six small screws with the new gasket on the new unit. Also, I didn't put the level arm in place till after the body of the pump was inside the tank.
You can verify the quality of the sender slipring by measuring the resistance with a DVOM while moving the flotar all the way in a slow speed . The value should move slowly from 40 ohm to 250 ohm with no drop out of the resistance reading
I think, but am not certain, that the contacts are NOT supposed to be joined/connected. Maybe like a brush equipped electric motor, where the commutator has individual segments, which are separate. I'm pretty sure they're supposed to be individual contacts. Again, I could be wrong. Perhaps one of our electronic guru's, like C5Diag, or Bill Curlee will step in and make me look stupid!!!...
You can verify the quality of the sender slipring by measuring the resistance with a DVOM while moving the flotar all the way in a slow speed . The value should move slowly from 40 ohm to 250 ohm with no drop out of the resistance reading
Just out of curiosity, I'll check this out tomorrow oelarse... then it's going into the trash!
I'll report back...
I think, but am not certain, that the contacts are NOT supposed to be joined/connected. Maybe like a brush equipped electric motor, where the commutator has individual segments, which are separate. I'm pretty sure they're supposed to be individual contacts. Again, I could be wrong. Perhaps one of our electronic guru's, like C5Diag, or Bill Curlee will step in and make me look stupid!!!...
The fuel sender is a reostat or variable resistor. There is a wiper that contacts the fingers and completes the circuit. Those fingers should not be connected to each other. Looks like they just wore down and the metal migrated between the contacts causing them to be shorted together.
Like you guys I did what is suggested here. I removed and cleaned them, which lasted about a year. Then I replaced both sides. Everything is working great now but as we all know about parts no longer being available I may just buy 2 of the $50 senders from RockAuto and keep them in stock to assure myself never having this same problem reoccurring. Sorta like when I bought a snowblower, then never needed that either.
