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At Rock Auto, I'm finding part #19421094, Left, for $44.79. Different # than I was given, but says it's made for a 2000. Man, $44.79 is WAY less money than I've spent on Techron, let me tell you!!!
This is the correct part.
The number I gave was off of the paper instructions that will come with the part number you listed.
I also verified in my rockauto order history that the order placed was for 19421094.
Good luck grinder. I've have been in my tanks a few times in the last 4 years for various reasons and once you commit to just buckling down and making a bit of a mess and a slight fire hazard the job really isn't that bad lol.
Whoa, thanks a million. I'm not opposed to trying to clean the old units, but when you can get new ones for that price why bother.
Mine's in a great place to work on right now as its on stands b/c I've been fixing brake lines, but the tanks are a bit over 3/4 full and I'm not sure I want to fuss with fuel spilling all over my garage.
Try taking out your existing ones and clean the contacts with wet sandpaper and electronics cleaner spray. Other CF members have used this method and it works. Total cost: ~$10 (or free if you already have these handy).
"Finally removed the.passenger side fuel sending unit and cleaned the oxidizing and tarnished contacts and sweep contacts with very light wet dry sand paper and electric contact cleaner. Solved. Cheap fix considering the absurd price of a new unit if you can find one."
I want to take mine out and clean them as I know they work and just need cleaning,
I would not use Sand paper though More like a Soft stiff Camel Hair brush cut short to make it stiffer then scrub the board and wiper with Carb cleaner with the brush.
I want to take mine out and clean them as I know they work and just need cleaning,
I would not use Sand paper though More like a Soft stiff Camel Hair brush cut short to make it stiffer then scrub the board and wiper with Carb cleaner with the brush.
Yes, my vote is a pink pencil eraser as well. Overall will be about 3500 grit and won't take too much material with it. Though you will have to use something mildly abrasive as the sulfur creates a molecular bond with the silver.
I suppose the best way to do this job is to run the thing as close to empty as possible and then lift the rear end up higher than the front? I was just bleeding my brakes and noticed both access plates, and was shocked at how close to the bottom of the tank they are.
Yes, my vote is a pink pencil eraser as well. Overall will be about 3500 grit and won't take too much material with it. Though you will have to use something mildly abrasive as the sulfur creates a molecular bond with the silver.
I suppose the best way to do this job is to run the thing as close to empty as possible and then lift the rear end up higher than the front? I was just bleeding my brakes and noticed both access plates, and was shocked at how close to the bottom of the tank they are.
So, you can change out the senders on a 2000 model without dropping the tanks?
So, you can change out the senders on a 2000 model without dropping the tanks?
Yes. I have to say I thought this was common knowledge. That's what I get for assuming things.
I could probably swap out the passenger side in a half hour. It's that easy. Drivers side takes quite bit longer with the actual fuel pump getting in the way. I think the drivers side took about 3 hours because you have to deal with actual draining of the fuel. Obviously the passenger side should be on fumes below a half tank or so.
Yes. I have to say I thought this was common knowledge. That's what I get for assuming things.
I could probably swap out the passenger side in a half hour. It's that easy. Drivers side takes quite bit longer with the actual fuel pump getting in the way. I think the drivers side took about 3 hours because you have to deal with actual draining of the fuel. Obviously the passenger side should be on fumes below a half tank or so.
Well, in my case it wasn't common! But now I know. Thank you for the info. Nice to know! This must be why some guys who had earlier C5s really complain about changing them in later models, apparently because you have to drop the tanks on the '03-'04?
Obviously the passenger side should be on fumes below a half tank or so.
I'm not sure that's the case - I'm sure I've read somewhere that the siphon pump can also allow the passenger side tank to equalize with the drivers side when the engine (fuel pump) isn't running.
I'm not sure that's the case - I'm sure I've read somewhere that the siphon pump can also allow the passenger side tank to equalize with the drivers side when the engine (fuel pump) isn't running.
While I can't say one way or the other for absolute certainty I will say this goes against the narrative that you should never store a C5 for long periods with fuel levels at half or below due to air being able to get to the passenger fuel sender causing corrosion.
Either way IMO it's best to just drive the car to near empty and fight with the least amount of fuel possible.
I've also had minimal luck trying to pump out the remaining fuel by turning the fuel pump on by itself. Not sure why that is though.
I will say this goes against the narrative that you should never store a C5 for long periods with fuel levels at half or below due to...
I'm pretty sure this happens in a matter of minutes, not days. Essentially when the electric pump stops running, the jet pump acts as a siphon or "hose level" between the tanks, and gravity does it's thing.
I've noticed the rising fuel level phenomenon after having the engine off for as little as 30 minutes.
While I can't say one way or the other for absolute certainty I will say this goes against the narrative that you should never store a C5 for long periods with fuel levels at half or below due to air being able to get to the passenger fuel sender causing corrosion.
Either way IMO it's best to just drive the car to near empty and fight with the least amount of fuel possible.
I've also had minimal luck trying to pump out the remaining fuel by turning the fuel pump on by itself. Not sure why that is though.
I have also read that it's not a good idea to leave the C5 with less than 1/2 tank of fuel for an extended period of time. When I use Techron, I always fill the tank(s). I also try to keep it full, so when I get to 1/2 tank (which is really a bit less than 1/2), I fill the tank. It also keeps the swat in the chops for a fill up more reasonable, so when the wife asks how much did your gas cost, I don't have to tell her $75.00!!!!
Drivers side takes quite bit longer with the actual fuel pump getting in the way. I think the drivers side took about 3 hours because you have to deal with actual draining of the fuel..
Good to know, as I'll be tearing into this tomorrow. I've run the fuel level down to the point where the RANGE level on the CID would only report LOW RANGE, at less than 30 miles remaining. At this point does anyone have a guess as to how much fuel I have to deal with on the drivers side?
Thanks in advance.
Brad-in-STL
Last edited by Brad-in-STL; Dec 28, 2022 at 10:03 PM.
One other thought / question along these lines - what kind of sealing apparatus is used here? If I pull these pieces out, what's the chance the sealing apparatus tears / breaks / otherwise disintegrates upon removal and I'm left clamoring for a replacement that's as scarce as unicorn tears?
Edit: BTW Brad-in-STL I have a co-worker who lives just down i-55 from you in Festus.
One other thought / question along these lines - what kind of sealing apparatus is used here? If I pull these pieces out, what's the chance the sealing apparatus tears / breaks / otherwise disintegrates upon removal and I'm left clamoring for a replacement that's as scarce as unicorn tears?
I'm surprised this doesn't come up more often.
It is a heavy duty rubber gasket. Around an 1/8" thick. I am still on my original 97 gaskets and have been apart multiple times for various reasons.
like anything the amount of degradation is going to be based on age and UV damage. Beings they are in the fender I think they are mostly ok as far as the elements.
In my short time on this forum I've never seen anyone say the gasket fell apart on them.
Good to know, as I'll be tearing into this tomorrow. I've run it down to the point where the RANGE level would only report LOW RANGE, at less than 30 miles remaining. At this point does anyone have a guess as to how much fuel I have to deal with on the drivers side?