Gasoline is refreshed every time you fill up. You get clean fuel. At least, I do. If my fuel filter plugs (in over 1 million miles, and at least 8 EFI vehicles, this has NEVER happened), the only thing that happens is the car runs out of fuel. I think most of us would rather run out of fuel with a plugged filter, than overheat a transmission, and have it start slipping because the filter plugged. PLENTY of LOGIC there, no? If you disagree, that's fine. Do as you please, your car. But please don't use selective logic and vision. Nothing succeeds like success, and I've had nothing but success. My way may not work for you. But it works for ME. But my logic is sound, or I'd have numerous fuel related issues, accidents and burned up transmissions. I stated why I change my oil and filter. I have had no brake, trans, or fuel related problems. I'll agree to disagree. HAPPY NEW YEAR, and don't forget to change your fuel and transmission filter!!

 

I apologize for hijacking your thread. It wasn't my intention, but it happened. As you probably know by now, I've never changed my brake fluid. That said, why not remove the master cylinder, drain all the fluid, and drill a couple of small holes for better fluid transfer from front to back? If the master is really old, you may want to change it anyway. If not, maybe do the drill mod I suggested, clean the master, and remount it. Then refill, and use your Motive bleeder to purge the system. With the extra equalizing fluid hol
es, you'll never experience the turkey baster issue again. Just a suggestion, and you have a great tool in the Motive tool. Should be pretty easy. I'd like to know whether this would work, or my suggestion sucks, and it might. Just trying to help, so don't shoot the messenger!!!

 

You may be right about the sealant failing after a few years. BUT-This is a perfect application for liquid Teflon pipe sealant. It should never leak again after using it. If I go to speed bleeders, and I'm thinking about doing just that this spring when I get home to my lift, I have some Loctite brand liquid pipe sealant w/PTFE that I'll use. That stuff really works. When I worked building transmission leak test machines, even Helium couldn't penetrate it......

 

every time you add any fluid, that's one more opportunity for impurities to enter the system.
that said, filling up with gas has the highest statistical probability of inadvertently contaminating and/or clogging your system (and you have zero control over that unless you personally test every batch before pumping into your car). and you ask, "what's the worst that can happen with clogged fuel?" it clogs while you're zipping up an on-ramp to make the hole in traffic or while you're trying to pass someone before the lines change back to double-solid... high-load fuel pressure loss is an easy way to blow a piston.

as for other systems that don't have filters - many often have pressure vents and/or weep ports. it is possible for dirt & grime to enter the system through those orifices. additionally, as metal parts wear (especially if under high load), they often tend to shed fine little bits of themselves. i prefer to not perpetually circulate metal flakes/dust through tight clearances.

 

I must ask, how many times has your fuel filter plugged, causing you to blow up your engine? An extremely extreme example, because I've never had any engine damage while running out of fuel. That HAS happened, at least twice in my C5s life, BOTH times with my 427, both times on a freeway on ramp, under WOT. Both times due to the "well engineered" fuel gage sending units. A couple 3 times it bucked, I turned off the key, and called a wrecker. NEVER ONE ENGINE PROBLEM. Hey, if you guys want to change it every month, or every year, go for it. I'm merely stating my experiences, and what has worked for ME. Your cars, spend all the $$$ you want. I figure I've saved enough $$$ in my lifetime by not changing brake fluid and fuel filters, that I could buy a new fuel pump AND filter, and a new brake master cylinder, and have $$$ left over. Whatever flips your trigger.....

 

never saw anybody suggest daily filter changes (if we're all going to be facetious with our quotes), but i've had two different dirty fuel filters cause low/restricted pressure - one because i went ~30k mi forgetting to change it and the second was consequently within a couple thousand miles of changing the 1st due to a bad batch of gas.

both times, i recognized the issue and never gave it hard throttle. i tend to change mine on 15k mi intervals.

 

I don't remember saying daily, but if I did, I did. Trying to make a point. But honestly, I don't care what intervals people use. I know what has worked for me, and I'm trying to express my experiences. BTW, please share the brand of fuel that caused your issues. I'd certainly change fuel stations. I know I did. Both of my problems were water contamination, from an off brand of fuel, if Admiral can be called an "off brand." Dry gas, and fresh fuel fixed the issue. I've primarily used Shell, Speedway, and Murphy's fuel since, with Sams Club and BP used occasionally. I've never had any problems using those fuels, and no more Admiral. Not trying to force anything on anyone. I do believe many of the things that are recommended to be changed at certain intervals are recommended by companies who have vested interests in selling their products. In other words, if I'm selling air filters, I'm going to recommend changing them often. Maybe not when actually needed. But by all means, change anything whenever you feel you should. Didn't mean to offend anyone. However, if everything needed changing when many think it should be, or even has to be, my car would be scrap instead of running, steering, starting, shifting, and stopping just fine.......

 

Would this not also negate the ability to keep brakes on one circuit if you ruptured a line?

 

And Your right BUT what s your Point? do you expect me to explain the Process? I think not for liability reasons Open your manual.

 

you didn't (that i'm aware of) - hence the 'facetious' comment... but to that end, i also don't recall anyone suggesting monthly or annual fuel filter changes either. these also ain't got water separators like diesel vehicles, so time-based approaches wouldn't make sense over driving usage (run time or miles).

i honestly don't remember where i filled up with the bad batch, and i don't live there no more anyway, so it don't matter. gas stations are independently-run franchises, so just because my local exxon station, for example, don't maintain the tanks like they're supposed to & gets algae, dirt, etc. in their gas... that don't mean all exxon gas is the devil. on a bigger scale, say one new england exxon refinery screwed something up & distributed a bad batch; exxons west of the mississippi likely won't ever see that fuel.

 

[QUOTE=grinder11;1606098753] why not remove the master cylinder, drain all the fluid, and drill a couple of small holes for better fluid transfer from front to back?

OMG!!!!!! really???? I cant believe ANYONE would publicly suggest that to anyone????!!!! Please any one reading this do not do this to your master cylinder!!!!!!!

REALLY ?????
You like so many other people on this web sight REALLY think you know more than REAL Auto engineers and real mechanics on this web sight.
So many of you should keep your mouths shut and Just read and learn!!!!! I been working on cars for over 40 years and their are subjects I still never comment on And Just read!!!!
You have no idea why the divider is their or what its for or why the two are divided for do you ?????
Why any one that does know would suggest this???? do you really want to get people Killed????
That's an Insane suggestion you clearly have No idea what you are talking about,
Please Stay off PUBLIC Highways with ANYTHING you have worked on or Modified.
Your publicly stating that you drive at 130 mph with anything you have worked on is a scary thought.

 

YOU Sir are correct!!!!! What this Moron suggests will get some one killed!!!!!!!! AND Ya I am Calling Him a MORON PUBLICLY!
PLEASE Do not do what this guy suggested to your Master cylinder.
This guy should be banned for Giving bad advice that will get someone killed he has no idea what he is talking about and should be permanently suspended from ever posting again!

He is No Mechanic he is nothing more than a dreamer wanna be he should keep his mouth shut hes giving BAD advice and suggestions!
He should be forever permanently prevented from ever posting again on the forum.
Telling people to do a Modification to their Master cylinders that will kill people... I still cant be leave it.

 

[QUOTE=Dudly Doright;1606100088]I am a 40+ year Tool and diemaker. You drive some things I helped engineer, with suggestions to the M.E.'s. If either of us don't know what the Hell were talking about, it would be YOU!! I admit, there are times I assume people have access to a machine shop, or have abilities that perhaps they dont. Like you. I should know not all of us do. Like you. NEVER assume just because YOU don't know something means none of us do. Just because GM engineers something doesn't mean it cannot be re-engineered better. Read about LS7 heads. Read about C5 fuel senders. The engineers designed the M/C to share fluid to both chambers. What I suggested-IF YOU HAVE SKILLS-is merely enlarging the small balance slot to facilitate the same. Please explain how what I suggested would lessen, make less reliable, or enhance, braking capacity. You sound paranoid! I rest my case. This thread has gone off the rails completely.

 

A moron, eh. Wow. I've got mechanical skills you will never have. I dont see how what I suggested would hurt anything. The front and rear remain separate. You may empty the M/C sooner, but Id like to think most would notice.a ruptured line long before theyd drain the M/C. Did you think I was going to recommend eliminating the divider, or hogging a 1/2" diameter hole.in it? Absolutely not. If I'm wrong, I apologize. But I won't resort to calling people names here. I thought we were a bit more adult than that. So, I may be wrong twice.

 

I’ve never changed the brake fluid on my C5, and bought a Motive Bleeder kit with adapters for the C5 the 1965 C10 and a Corolla in 2009 or 2010.

Used it when converting the old truck to front disc brakes.

Maybe a few months later the hose on the motive bleeder rotted off, it was inside garage so maybe brake fluid ate it up, this is the hose on the outside of the tank that connects to your adapter lid for master cylinder.

Guess I’m a

 

I can't take your ranting and name calling seriously when your capitalization and grammar are so poor.
Try posting some evidence to back up your claim. At least @grinder11 posted reasons for some of her or his practices. That allows you to make an informed decision.
If you think the additional hole is problematic post the reason why you think that and the evidence to back up your claim.

 

My post 14 is the way I have done it for 17 years of tracking my '03. I have never had a problem. I do burn up R7's, DTC 70's pads and picked up a trophy or two along the way and always suck the reservoir dry (almost), pour in fresh DOT 4, pressurize and bleed as in my post 14. I don't worry about that little that remains in the front of the reservoir. Never has been a problem. You should be good to go.

 

I use my Motiv bleeder "dry" rather than wet - I add fluid to the car reservoir only and then pressurize with the Motiv. Saves time for cleanup but you need to pay attention to fluid levels.

 

Wow, this thread really ran off the rails. It seems like this happens a lot when questions are asked without sufficient background and specificity.

I think you would get a more direct answer if you were more specific. Are you tracking your car(s)? If not the premise of your question is somewhat ridiculous. The only racing I do is when some moron in a lifted Silverado with offset rims wants to challenge me. Even then, after as far as I could drive as fast as I was able to, I still didn't experience brake fade even after I crested a hill to find I was running up on a line of cars that were moving approximately 100mph slower than I was right after a hard sweeping 90. The only thing that faded was the possibility of wearing my underwear to bed.

I probably made the most pointed defense of old brake fluid. And when I say old, I mean wet. I'm not advocating that wet fluid should be in a car you plan to track. But the street is not the track. It doesn't matter if you drive a Corvette, or a Chevette. It's my strict assertion that leadfoot4 is either leaving out important details such as frequent track days, or he's being very extremely paranoid. Whatever the case, the correct answers will vary.

If you're that set on perfection, your bleeding regimen should start with seating all the calipers to remove any stagnant fluid contained in them, where it is most likely to experience boiling temps. Who's thought of that one?

Supercharged - not to refute your assertion about wet fluid becoming corrosive, but I live in the rust belt. The shops I know who replace rusted brake lines are doing so because of salt and calcium chloride collection in areas under the vehicle. Show me some one owner cars that live in latitudes below 35* who've experienced brake line rust through and I'll proclaim that everyone should change their brake fluid at least annually.

C'mon guys, let's be reasonable.

 

I agree, and that's the same procedure that I use. I had (still have, actually) an old Plews brand, "bleeder ball", that you clamped to the master cylinder, and pumped fresh fluid through the brake lines. Always wound up having to do a "panic flush" of brake fluid from the underhood area, as I never seemed to be able to get the bleeder ball unhooked, without spilling some brake fluid, when removing it from the car. That's why I use my Motive bleeder "dry".

I believe that asking how to get as much of the old fluid from the m/c before beginning to flush the system with fresh fluid, is pretty specific. Do I track the car? No. But I simply want to to do as much of a complete fluid flush as possible. Would you drain the oil from your oil pan, refill it with fresh oil, but not change the filter, therefore reintroducing a quantity of old oil into the engine?

I thought that I was asking a simple question, with the thought that I was simply overlooking something in the process. I guess not....